"Pacing myself" build

I'm sure these questions have been asked before, but for my curiosity:

What amount of slip joint is showing in your driveshafts? Do new driveshafts fix the vibrations for a short while, and then they come back?

Does driving fast in 4WD cure the vibration? IE does the loading on the front driveshaft change anything? Driving with the rear removed not only means that the rear axle is gone, but also that the front driveshaft is under load. In 2WD it is simply coasting.

I can't see how this would be the transmission if front wheel drive causes the vibration to go away. The transmission knows no difference in what driveshafts are installed.
 
I'm sure these questions have been asked before, but for my curiosity:

What amount of slip joint is showing in your driveshafts? Do new driveshafts fix the vibrations for a short while, and then they come back?

Front DS:
20200519_110014.webp

Rear DS:
20200519_110032.webp

New shafts did improved the vibes, but have not gotten worse over time.

Does driving fast in 4WD cure the vibration? IE does the loading on the front driveshaft change anything? Driving with the rear removed not only means that the rear axle is gone, but also that the front driveshaft is under load. In 2WD it is simply coasting.

I can't see how this would be the transmission if front wheel drive causes the vibration to go away. The transmission knows no difference in what driveshafts are installed.

Driving in 4WD does not change the vibes.
Driving with the rear shaft removed nets no vibes.
Jacking the rear axle on jack stands and running in 2WD nets vibes.
 
Front DS:
View attachment 162631
Rear DS:
View attachment 162632
New shafts did improved the vibes, but have not gotten worse over time.



Driving in 4WD does not change the vibes.
Driving with the rear shaft removed nets no vibes.
Jacking the rear axle on jack stands and running in 2WD nets vibes.

Did you swap in a new SYE when the transfer case was rebuilt? With that info I would narrow it down to either the SYE or rear slip joint. I'll have to measure mine to see the length. I know that too short of a driveshaft can cause problems. I wonder if swapping in the T-Case @Alex01 has around along with a slightly longer driveshaft (if you can find one) would net any positive. A heck of a lot of work for just a test though.

I know you've been on this for a while, very interesting problem.
 
Did you swap in a new SYE when the transfer case was rebuilt? With that info I would narrow it down to either the SYE or rear slip joint. I'll have to measure mine to see the length. I know that too short of a driveshaft can cause problems. I wonder if swapping in the T-Case @Alex01 has around along with a slightly longer driveshaft (if you can find one) would net any positive. A heck of a lot of work for just a test though.

I know you've been on this for a while, very interesting problem.

I had a transmission shop I trust install a Advance Adapters SYE, new chain, and refresh the bearings/seals. I had the vibes before the SYE, btw.

I need to pull the rear springs and cycle the suspension and measure to see if I can get away with a longer rear shaft.
 
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Are you sure they didn’t install a Detroit locker in the rear? 😂 just asking since you said you have rotational play and hear a clunking every time you shift which is an exact description of a the Detroit locker lol
 
If you were to put the t-case in neutral, park brake off, how much rotational play do you have in the rear yoke?
I have none at the TCase yoke, only 1mm or less at the pinion yoke. Pretty much nothing.
 
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Let's see if I can recall events over the past 3 years,
1. Re-geared the rear axle with Motive 4.56 gears, replaced the right rear axle bearing/seal as the seal was leaking, and installed new Yukon clutches in the Traclok while we had it apart. Didn't have time to do the front, so went to drive home and do the front the following weekend. On the drive home wicked bad vibes starting at 45mph. Didn't drive it till the following weekend and regeared the front. Still wicked bad vibes.
2. Pulled the front drive shaft and vibes virtually gone. Took my stock DS to a driveline shop and had it retubed/balanced. Vibes slightly better, but still bad.
3. Down the rabbit hole I went. Ordered a brand new Adams DS. and installed that. Vibes slightly better yet, but still bad enough to vibrate the rear view mirror to the point that I can't see out of it from 60mph on up.
Removed my UCF Lopro trany mount, reinstalled my stock mount, and lowered the t-case skid down 0.75". Vibes a bunch better, but still not right. Now vibes are like a harmonic sign wave from 50 to 60 mph, then above 60 they get physical in the steering wheel and driver seat. At this point I could still remove the front DS and get rid of most of the vibes. Called Adams and complained enough that he sends me another new front ds. Maybe it was a bit better, but at this point my butt dyno is getting too sensitive to tell for sure.
4. At this point I figured I screwed something up with the front re-gear, so I take it to an offroad shop next county from me, as there is nobody in my county I can trust to do gears. The shop pulls the front cover and tells me that I only have 2 thousands of backlash and all the hard facing has worn of the gears. So, I have him install new gears. I come to pick up the jeep, drive it 30 miles to home, and vibes are the same. I park the jeep and notice oil puking out of both C's. Drive it 30 miles back to the offroad shop and say WTF? They take it back apart and found that they had install the wrong inner seals, so they fix that fuck up. I tell them I still have vibes, so they put the jeep on stands, run it, and proceed to tell me I have too much play in the stock rear drive shaft. At this point I think they were just trying to get rid of me, so I left.
5. So, I moved on to the rear. Ordered adjustable control arms, a SYE, and DC rear drive shaft. I have a local transmission shop I trust install it, along with a new chain and a bearing/seal refresh. I re-install the t-case
dial in my pinion, and nope, still vibes. Maybe better but meh. At this point I do a series of pinion angle changes to try and dial out the vibes to no avail. I call Adams and he sends me a second rear ds. Nope.
6. Pretty much fed up and broke, I just drive it and live with the vibes, trying to avoid the freeway when possible. As a last ditch effort I get a Barnes t-case skid in hopes that going with a thicker skid I could somehow change the harmonics, which it did, and actually helps some. So now we have a vibe that is annoying above 55mph but somewhat livable. Still not ideal, cause any vibe is not good.
7. For some reason or other the vibes seemed to have shifted from the front to the rear. I pulled the rear ds and now no vibes in FWD. WTF! On goes Adams shaft #3. Still got vibes.
8.This leads me to my current situation in hopes that basically replacing all the internals of the rear axle might find the culprit. Nope. Think that bring us to now. Sorry for the long read.
 
Are you sure they didn’t install a Detroit locker in the rear? 😂 just asking since you said you have rotational play and hear a clunking every time you shift which is an exact description of a the Detroit locker lol

This is what they installed,
https://www.nitro-gear.com/Dana-44-Nitro-Worm-Gear-Posi-p/tors-Dana 44-4.htm
I find that if I change my clutch habbits and let out the clutch smoother I can eliminate most of the clunk. I get no clunk shifting to a lower gear, only up shifting to a higher gear.
 
Oh, and I forgot one more thing I did. I added a JKS MML. That further helped with the vibes.
 
So the vibes started with a rear regear. Makes sense that you got that redone and I would think that would fix it if that’s what caused it in the first place. But the shifting between front and rear is throwing me off. Could your rear axle shafts be bent maybe just enough to transmit vibes through the gears and then through the rear driveshaft? Just trying to throw out any possibilities you haven’t changed yet...
 
1. Re-geared the rear axle with Motive 4.56 gears, replaced the right rear axle bearing/seal as the seal was leaking, and installed new Yukon clutches in the Traclok while we had it apart. Didn't have time to do the front, so went to drive home and do the front the following weekend. On the drive home wicked bad vibes starting at 45mph. Didn't drive it till the following weekend and regeared the front. Still wicked bad vibes.
Why is the problem not right in here? You had wicked bad vibes after regearing the rear diff. You had done nothing to the front at that time.

Why not try to sell your Dana 44 and buy another one with 4.56 gears and switch them out? That would be a pretty even trade $$$ wise, it's just the time and effort of swapping them out.

EDIT: nothing else you did later could have brought about the initial vibes you got
 
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Why is the problem not right in here? You had wicked bad vibes after regearing the rear diff. You had done nothing to the front at that time.

Why not try to sell your Dana 44 and buy another one with 4.56 gears and switch them out? That would be a pretty even trade $$$ wise, it's just the time and effort of swapping them out.
Yeah x2 I would think something with the rear axle has got to be it
 
I replaced everything in the rear Dana 44, except the housing itself, New Revolution shafts, gears, carrier, yoke, everything.
 
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No expert by any means.... what about the transfer case, could the rear vibes after the initial regear transferred into the case damaging some internal part? Anyone have a spare t-case to swap in?
 
No expert by any means.... what about the transfer case, could the rear vibes after the initial regear transferred into the case damaging some internal part? Anyone have a spare t-case to swap in?

Yeah, @Alex01 has a spare NP231 he just took out in lieu of an Atlas, which we are currently discussing. It's a lot of work to do that only to find it's not it. After I get this re-gearing fiasco sorted out, I may try playing with lowering the t-case skid and more pinion angle dialing before I venture into all the work of swapping t-cases.
 
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I have none at the TCase yoke, only 1mm or less at the pinion yoke. Pretty much nothing.

I have about half an inch of rotational play at the yoke. A lot more than there was with the old setup. Not sure if that is a result of the new LSD they installed.