Wow, I typed a full reply, posted it, somehow deleted.
Okay, I'm going to try to pull the driveshaft. I watched a video on how to do it, doesn't seem difficult, I'm just not sure I have the right tool for it.
Sadly no parking break. The rear end replacement wasn't quite finished. The shop I was using didn't do a great job.
The engine and transmission have never been separated. The rear end was replaced, I've had the U Joints in the driveshaft replaced repeatedly (the pinion angle of the previous rear end was so messed up the driveshaft looked like a snake moving in the grass). Other than that no tampering that I'm aware of. Oh, the previous owner did do the kit replacement in the trans case to make it 4:1.
I do have jackstands, that's a good idea. I'll see if I can get my jack out. I'll try not to lay directly under it while it runs.
I noticed today one of the U-Joints is missing a retaining clip. Could this be at all part of the problem?
Okay, I'm going to try to pull the driveshaft. I watched a video on how to do it, doesn't seem difficult, I'm just not sure I have the right tool for it.
Sadly no parking break. The rear end replacement wasn't quite finished. The shop I was using didn't do a great job.
The engine and transmission have never been separated. The rear end was replaced, I've had the U Joints in the driveshaft replaced repeatedly (the pinion angle of the previous rear end was so messed up the driveshaft looked like a snake moving in the grass). Other than that no tampering that I'm aware of. Oh, the previous owner did do the kit replacement in the trans case to make it 4:1.
I do have jackstands, that's a good idea. I'll see if I can get my jack out. I'll try not to lay directly under it while it runs.
I noticed today one of the U-Joints is missing a retaining clip. Could this be at all part of the problem?
So I'm pulling out my drive shaft when I noticed one of the bolts that holds it to the transfer case is missing. Could that be the cause?
Okay, removed driveshaft, no more squeal, no more clank. So does this mean driveshaft?
Also, the Jeep was squirrely as hell when I test drove it. Had to hold the wheel firmly or it would just jump off to either side at random moments.
Also, the Jeep was squirrely as hell when I test drove it. Had to hold the wheel firmly or it would just jump off to either side at random moments.
Okay, pulled the driveshaft, it looks like one of the U Joints wiggles a lot. I'm thinking that plus the missing screw are the key here. Anyone agree?
Sounds like all of that needs to be fixed. Missing bolts would result in an out of balance condition and cause vibration.
Missing clips on the u-joints could cause early failure of the u-joints.
Loose u-joints often make noise, and should be replaced as soon as possible.
Regarding the squirrely feeling, driving in front wheel drive should not have a significant impact on handling, though it may be easier to break a wheel free. You may want to check out all the front steering, trackbar, and control arm joints and linkages for play or looseness, and also do an alignment if necessary.
Missing clips on the u-joints could cause early failure of the u-joints.
Loose u-joints often make noise, and should be replaced as soon as possible.
Regarding the squirrely feeling, driving in front wheel drive should not have a significant impact on handling, though it may be easier to break a wheel free. You may want to check out all the front steering, trackbar, and control arm joints and linkages for play or looseness, and also do an alignment if necessary.
Fingers crossed that's the cause of all of my headaches. Need a machine shop to press the old one out and the new one in, but looks like there's a shop that can to do that tomorrow for me at not a terrible price.
I'm not surprised it failed, the way the driveshaft was goosenecked before the rear end swap was sickening. The last owner did not get a quality lift set up.
I'm supposed to drive 100 miles tomorrow evening, so fingers crossed this takes care of it all.
Driving in 4wd was significantly different. It would hold steady for a bit, but if you hit a bump or you moved the steering wheel too much it would jump into a harder turn and I'd have to wrestle it back.
You can do the u-joints at home with a large socket set and a good hammer, or with a ball joint press. Plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do it.
This forum generally recommends the Spicer Life series sealed joints.
This forum generally recommends the Spicer Life series sealed joints.
It has some kind of adapter at the end which makes it really hard to hammer out, at least I think.
You will have to remove the clips and then unscrew the zerk fittings, but other than that, it's only held in by friction.
That thing in the center of the cap is a low profile grease fitting. It simply unscrews.
That thing in the center of the cap is a low profile grease fitting. It simply unscrews.
There are multiple videos on replacing u-joints with just a hammer or a vice (if you have one). Here's one and another and another.
As for the tendency to run awry when you hit a bump while running "front wheel drive", you may be suffering from classic bump steer which is caused by improper steering component alignment. Do you happen to have a drop pitman arm? Search for "bump steer" for more info.
As for the tendency to run awry when you hit a bump while running "front wheel drive", you may be suffering from classic bump steer which is caused by improper steering component alignment. Do you happen to have a drop pitman arm? Search for "bump steer" for more info.
Replaced the u joint, turns out someone had put in the wrong size, using washers to make up for the difference. Sadly, this did nothing to alleviate the problem, although the sounds are a little quieter (but not much).
I had to drive 100 miles last night and though the problem persisted it grew no worse.
I had to drive 100 miles last night and though the problem persisted it grew no worse.
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BPYellowTj
New Member
I had a very similar issue, It ended up being the front bearing retainer was broke in half. The front part where the throw out bearing ride on, was spinning with the input shaft, I thought the front bearing was bad. but it wasn't.
I was driving the other day and I noticed a grinding with some struggle to accelerate. I drove a short distance to a parking lot, and during the time the grinding feeling got worse. I checked the rear diff fluid and it was down a full quart even though I had filled it up less than a week prior. I'm not sure if something happened there.
Could the baseball card in the spokes sound been related to the rear diff?
Could the baseball card in the spokes sound been related to the rear diff?
Yes. You could have damaged bearing, gears, or both.
The rapid loss of fluid would certainly indicate a leak. Can you see any signs of fluid escaping around the diff cover (leaking cover) or at either end of the axle (leaking axle seals)?
Have you had the cover off of the diff? If not, I think it's time to pull and check for damage. Loose parts like a broken gear tooth can cause major damage and, if left to long, can destroy everything from the axle shafts, the carrier, and even the axle housing (the pumpkin).