PRNDL's Green Jeep

[PRNDL]

Valve cover gasket was fairly straightforward.

I did have a couple of issues not mentioned in the FSM.

There were 15 bolts in my valve cover, the 04 FSM lists 14 - at least in the torque order image.

There were two 18mm nuts that prevented the cover from lifting off easily, one at the front of the cover holding down the AC lines bracket and one at the rear that secures a ground mount. I had to remove these in order to clear the cover.

The last and most frustrating part was removing the PCV elbows. I found a similar question here suggesting you just cut them up and remove them piece by piece. It took a while but this method worked.

 

[nk24]

Valve cover gasket was fairly straightforward.

View attachment 284849

I did have a couple of issues not mentioned in the FSM.

There were 15 bolts in my valve cover, the 04 FSM lists 14 - at least in the torque order image.
View attachment 284854

There were two 18mm nuts that prevented the cover from lifting off easily, one at the front of the cover holding down the AC lines bracket and one at the rear that secures a ground mount. I had to remove these in order to clear the cover.

The last and most frustrating part was removing the PCV elbows. I found a similar question here suggesting you just cut them up and remove them piece by piece. It took a while but this method worked.

I don't see the plastic bridge at the back of the cover, did you have to remove it? I put off doing the valve cover gasket on my previous TJ partly because of that.

 

[PRNDL]

I don't see the plastic bridge at the back of the cover, did you have to remove it? I put off doing the valve cover gasket on my previous TJ partly because of that.

Yep, I had to remove it. I watched a few videos on how to get it out but they weren't especially helpful. It wasn't hard but it takes time.

I took my time and separated all eight clips around the top cover with a short stubby flat head screw driver and lots of patience. Then remove the 11mm nut on the passenger side valve cover bolt. Then its just finagling the bridge under the wires and out. The whole thing took me 20-25 minutes being careful not to break anything. Taking it out was harder than putting it back in.

 

[PRNDL]

So far no leaks and the 4.0 is running smooth. The lifter tick is all but gone, if that's even what it was in the first place. All the rocker arms and rods were tight when i had the cover off.

I took a grinder to the abs tray this afternoon. It had some decent rust spots. I'll get it painted and prepped for the locker pump relocation.

 

[PRNDL]

Busy weekend with lots of 10 year old softball, swim clinics and birthday parties. I did make time to take the boy out for a sonic drink run.

I installed the Toyota headlights with the included harness. Much better than the sealed beams. I need to aim them, but so far, its a worthwhile upgrade.

I'm planning to drop the gas skid tonight and assess the rear shock cross member. I'll clean it up and start the painting process tomorrow.

 

[red02tj]

I'm a believer in Thermocure.
View attachment 284832
Left to right in the order of application:

• Existing coolant drain
• Preston flush
• Thermocure flush

I didn't get pictures but the view into the radiator was a gross brown before the Thermocure and after it was back to looking like metal and much more "normal". I highly recommend.

Tell me more… PO allegedly flushed it every 2 years. I’ve already got a new Stant rad cap but would like to avoid a new coolant system.

 

[PRNDL]

Tell me more… PO allegedly flushed it every 2 years. I’ve already got a new Stant rad cap but would like to avoid a new coolant system.

View attachment 286278

I was right there with you not wanting to replace the entire system. Mine looked exactly like that under the cap when i started the process, but temps were fine and it isn't leaking at all. After, this is what it looks like under the cap:

Admittedly, not perfect, but you can see the fins and its not brown/orange.

I flushed the original and ran each of these for a week consecutively.
Prestone Flush: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B99U088/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Thermocure: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R74I5UY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I only drained the block on the last round to get as much out as possible. Filled the block with distilled water through the upper heater hose on the thermostat housing before filling the radiator with Zerex G05.

 

[red02tj]

I was right there with you not wanting to replace the entire system. Mine looked exactly like that under the cap when i started the process, but temps were fine and it isn't leaking at all. After, this is what it looks like under the cap:
View attachment 286293

Admittedly, not perfect, but you can see the fins and its not brown/orange.

I flushed the original and ran each of these for a week consecutively.
Prestone Flush: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B99U088/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Thermocure: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R74I5UY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I only drained the block on the last round to get as much out as possible. Filled the block with distilled water through the upper heater hose on the thermostat housing before filling the radiator with Zerex G05.

Damn..nice work, I’m in exactly the same position. Is there a thread you used as a guide or any pointers you can share.

 

[PRNDL]

Damn..nice work, I’m in exactly the same position. Is there a thread you used as a guide or any pointers you can share.

This thread has lots of good information all through it. I did not go through the trouble of draining the heater core or installing a tee fitting, but a lot of what I did was gleaned from there. After each flush, i did put a gallon of distilled water straight through the radiator.

An 8mm square head socket a couple of extensions and a breaker bar for the block drain plug are key. If you do drain the block, its best to either fill it like I did through the upper heater hose or to remove the temp sensor on the thermostat housing while filling the rad to allow air to escape.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRLBF4M/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The whole thing was fairly straight forward though.

 

[PRNDL]

Dropped the tank. It looks like it was patched at one point, but even the patch was a rusty mess. Here's the offending skid:

Replacement straps are on the way.

 

[PRNDL]

I started the rear shock cross member clean up. There's rust, but its not bad. I broke 3 of 4 shock bolts. I'll finish cleaning it up and coat it in rustoleum rust reformer before prime and paint.

Speaking of broken bolts. I snapped a bumper bolt head off in glorious fashion and the internal frame mounted nut is spinning free. Good times.

 

[SailorEd]

Wow I loved reading thru this! Isn't it funny that "doing all this stuff" is almost why we buy Jeeps to begin with?! Looking forward to more of your posts...

 

[PRNDL]

Yep. I've always loved tinkering. Its nice to have a project again. Some of the rust stuff I could do without though...

 

[SailorEd]

I can see that and I agree.
Oddly, after spending 40+ yrs in Chicagoland, I thought rust would be a thing of the past while I'm now in SoCal but I'm finding rust everywhere on mine! That's what coastal living does to ya! We can't escape the rust!

 

[PRNDL]

Its just part of it on most of these TJs at their age and mileage. Find it, remove it, treat it and enjoy the ride.

Really like the look of your Jeep. What size tires are you running?

 

[SailorEd]

Thx! They are 265/75r16 so everybit of 31". I wouldn't mind going larger but she's pretty perfect for what I do and enjoy. I'm actually shocked at what she takes me over!! I think a lunchbox locker in back (or ARB if I can stomach the $$) would make it perfect.

 

[PRNDL]

I'm targeting 285/75r16s when I lift mine in a month or two, but the look of yours has me thinking

 

[Mike_H]

Dropped the tank. It looks like it was patched at one point, but even the patch was a rusty mess. Here's the offending skid:
View attachment 286825
View attachment 286826View attachment 286827

Replacement straps are on the way.

SHoot...I have some straps sitting out back. Yours for shipping, if you can cancel or return the new ones you bought...

 

[PRNDL]

SHoot...I have some straps sitting out back. Yours for shipping, if you can cancel or return the new ones you bought...

Man, I knew i should have posted asking first. Thanks for the offer though. A new set was only $40 and will be here Saturday.

 

[Vtx531]

I wanted to replace my rusty straps when I put in the new gastank skid but I was too impatient to wait for new ones - so kuddos to you.

What's your plan for the towhook bolt or did you already take care of it?