OP
I have done that Chris and all looks fine. I think the vehicle needs to be in motion for the lockup to take place.
Problem with steering locking up
- Thread starter Binnie
- Start date
You effectively have 2.75" of backspacing which means the tires are capable of locking up the steering when the locker is engaged unless you have hydro-assist. Do a test, jack up one side, lock the locker and turn the tire by hand until you know it is locked. Then lower it down and without unlocking, start the engine and steer lock to lock.
Report back what happens and if it is very hard to steer, have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the linkages.
OP
It wouldn't if the pinch clamps are catching on something on the passenger side when the draglink rolls.
OP
And I expect that is the very reason they were recommending hydro-assist. I will do this test tomorrow and report back.
OP
I have checked for clearance there and all is fine. Matter of fact I drive quite a bit with the links disconnected and then they are tucked way up on the side of the frame and I still get lockups.
OP
Get rid of the wheel spacers. They are doing nothing good for your TJ, but they are increasing the front tire's scrub radius which makes steering more difficult. Excessive scrub radius means the tires are being dragged through an arc while turning instead of pivoting in place as happens with the ideal zero scrub radius. Your aftermarket wheel's 3.75" of backspacing (factory is 5.5") added to the scrub radius, adding the spacers further reduced the backspacing to 2.75" which added to the scrub radius problem.
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derekmac
TJ Addict
Hey Binnie, glad you found this place! I was wondering how you were making out with this problem, and was hoping you had it figured out. 
It is much easier to say that the tires have to roll as the knuckle turns instead of pivoting on the contact patch.
Even worse, is as you turn the knuckles from left to right, one side rolls forward, the other rolls backward and if they can't roll because the locker is locked, the steering locks up.
And did you have your face poked under the bumper on the right side so you could see the draglink roll and what it may be contacting?
OP
Jerry, with the wheels I have I need the spacers for clearance or my 35" tires will rub. But even if I did get rid of the spacers that does not resolve the problem. It this were the problem I would have it all the time and that is not the case. Once I get past the lockup it drives like a dream.
OP
Hi Derek. I am about at the end of my rope. I scared myself so bad the other day I just parked it in my garage and it is going nowhere until the problem is resolved once and for all.Hey Binnie, glad you found this place! I was wondering how you were making out with this problem, and was hoping you had it figured out.
OP
35" tires will not rub with 3.75" of backspacing so long as you have sufficient clearance above the tires via an adequate suspension lift or adequate suspension lift plus body lift combination.
My wheels only have 4" of backspacing with my 35" tires. 3.75" is more than enough for 35's, that is perhaps the most common amount of backspacing for 35's.
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OP
Jerry, I think I might be OK up front without the spacers but definitely not on the rear as the tires come in contact with the spring perches on the frame, esp when aired down.
Not going to happen unless just one side rubs from the axle not being properly centered via the correct length track bar.
As I said earlier I am running 4" of backspacing which positions my tires closer to the spring perches than yours are. Mine do not rub.
Are your axles well centered or are they off to the side?
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OP
Jerry, I am using a Rough Country rear adjustable track bar and I am almost positive the diff is centered. I will go see if I can get a couple pics for you now.