Problems filling fuel tank

Yeah, I'm lazy.
As you may surmise, we drop a lot of TJ fuel tanks for various reasons. I bought one of my few HF things purely to do nothing but drop tanks. It works so well, I'm sad I didn't think of it 10 years ago.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...0-lbs-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

Full, empty, stock height, 4-5" of lift, raised tanks, it just doesn't matter and works perfectly for all of them. If you are really lazy, best money you can spend to stay that way.
 
As you may surmise, we drop a lot of TJ fuel tanks for various reasons. I bought one of my few HF things purely to do nothing but drop tanks. It works so well, I'm sad I didn't think of it 10 years ago.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...0-lbs-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

Full, empty, stock height, 4-5" of lift, raised tanks, it just doesn't matter and works perfectly for all of them. If you are really lazy, best money you can spend to stay that way.


Nice tip. I can see that jack being very helpful.
 
As you may surmise, we drop a lot of TJ fuel tanks for various reasons. I bought one of my few HF things purely to do nothing but drop tanks. It works so well, I'm sad I didn't think of it 10 years ago.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...0-lbs-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

Full, empty, stock height, 4-5" of lift, raised tanks, it just doesn't matter and works perfectly for all of them. If you are really lazy, best money you can spend to stay that way.

Damn. That would've come in handy when I replaced my fuel pump assembly a couple days ago... Stupid and didn't run the tank down so did the swap at 3/4 of a tank and tried to balance it on a normal jack was near impossible, had a piece of wood to help distribute the load but when it was time to jack it back up it had shifted and come out.
 
Damn. That would've come in handy when I replaced my fuel pump assembly a couple days ago... Stupid and didn't run the tank down so did the swap at 3/4 of a tank and tried to balance it on a normal jack was near impossible, had a piece of wood to help distribute the load but when it was time to jack it back up it had shifted and come out.
We did it that way many times. The trick is to take a motorcycle ratchet strap and find a spot on the jack lifting head that you can hook to and then get to both ends of the tank skid which will at least slow down how much it wants to move around on you.
 
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We did it that way many times. The trick is to take a motorcycle ratchet strap and find a spot on the jack lifting head that you can hook to and then get to both ends of the tank skid which will at least slow down how much it wants to move around on you.

Thanks thats actually really good advice. Hopefully I don't have to take it down again anytime soon but if I do i'll try to rig something up.
 
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Brah! Mine did both before I fixed it. It once took me 20 mins to get about 8 gals in. I stopped because it was all I needed to get home. Wasn't long after I dropped the tank and fixed it for good. Now I can click the nozzle on full blast and run inside for a 12 pk of PBR's without worry :D
So, you say you fixed it. You did the modification on the 3 tabs on the check valve? I know that is the fix and I am to the point that I take the check valve out to sand down the 3 tabs. I know the check valve has to come out from the inside through the fuel pump module hole. How do you disconnect the check valve from the inside of the tank?

Thanks,

Ken V.
 
So, you say you fixed it. You did the modification on the 3 tabs on the check valve? I know that is the fix and I am to the point that I take the check valve out to sand down the 3 tabs. I know the check valve has to come out from the inside through the fuel pump module hole. How do you disconnect the check valve from the inside of the tank?

Thanks,

Ken V.
The rollover valve sits inside a plastic cage. The end of the cage has 3 slots that snap over tabs formed into the base of the filler neck inside the tank. You reach in, get a good grip on it and tip it over sideways to pop it off the tabs. When you reinstall it, there is a slot that lines up with a little tab to orient it correctly. Line it up and snap it back on when you are done sanding down the little nubs to free up the valve.
 
So, you say you fixed it. You did the modification on the 3 tabs on the check valve? I know that is the fix and I am to the point that I take the check valve out to sand down the 3 tabs. I know the check valve has to come out from the inside through the fuel pump module hole. How do you disconnect the check valve from the inside of the tank?

Thanks,

Ken V.
Correct. The video and Blaine's explanation are how to get it done.
 
The rollover valve sits inside a plastic cage. The end of the cage has 3 slots that snap over tabs formed into the base of the filler neck inside the tank. You reach in, get a good grip on it and tip it over sideways to pop it off the tabs. When you reinstall it, there is a slot that lines up with a little tab to orient it correctly. Line it up and snap it back on when you are done sanding down the little nubs to free up the valve.

The hardest part of this job was rotating the cage so the slot aligned. Your arm inside tank working by feel.
 
The hardest part of this job was rotating the cage so the slot aligned. Your arm inside tank working by feel.
Agreed. I reach in and find the tab that has to line up in the slot, turn the cage in my hand so it should be right and it is still not as much fun as it could be.
 
Agreed. I reach in and find the tab that has to line up in the slot, turn the cage in my hand so it should be right and it is still not as much fun as it could be.
Last year when I was doing my build, I had the bought the GM hose to do the "bandaid" mod. After listening to you as to how ez it was to correct the original design, I opted to go that route.

Happy I did, works like it should and I believe it keeps the roll over spillage function in tact also. I returned the GM hose.

Thanks for continuing to "herd" us cats in the right direction!
 
When I took mine out, it looked as though it would come out easiest by turning CCW, like you're unscrewing it. It just pushes back in.
 
The rollover valve sits inside a plastic cage. The end of the cage has 3 slots that snap over tabs formed into the base of the filler neck inside the tank. You reach in, get a good grip on it and tip it over sideways to pop it off the tabs. When you reinstall it, there is a slot that lines up with a little tab to orient it correctly. Line it up and snap it back on when you are done sanding down the little nubs to free up the valve.
Okay, so there is no trick, from your description, I would just remove it as if i were breaking a carrot in half?
 
I need to drop my tank and address this. What would the repercussions of leaving the rollover valve out altogether? i.e. if I break the damn thing removing it...
 
I did this mod to my LJ last year and it was easy. I also used my motorcycle jack. The best free mod you can do! If you have this issue, quit talking about it and just fix it. (y)
 
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What year TJ’s does this fix apply to?

Good question, even though I'm finding it a year later. I just learned the hard way that it does not apply to a 1997 model. See my post here.

If anyone knows how to fix the issue where you can't fill more than 3/4 before getting clicked off, I'm eager to know. Mine has been that way for years, and I'm eager to experience the joy of a full tank again.