Project Basketcase!

Replaced my urethane engine and transmission mounts with some cheap oem style rubber types today.
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Put the urethane stuff in with the stroker before researching just how much vibration and noise they would transmit into the cab.

I was surprised how smooth oem style mounts are after 20k miles of rattling dash and annoying harmonics.

Also got some cheap interior door handles.the drivers side had a spring break.
 
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While the skid was off i lifted the rear of the drivetrain up into the body to get an idea of what height tummy tuck I'll be comfortable with and what I'll need to do to make it work.

Tentative plans are
-ucf 1" drop skid instead of my stock 3.5-4" drop skid.should be able to use a factory trans mount with a np231.I forget what ucf calls it. Ultra clearance or some other fancy bs

-adding 2-1/4" flex joint to exhaust downpipe and cutting/rewelding hangers,cat and muffler starting at the front so nothing is preloaded,bound up and fits where it needs no be.i have an excellent condition 05 rubicon factory muffler and tailpipe i might use.quiet is my goal! My napa replacement muffler has rock dings and rattles so its gotta go regardless.

-my stock tcase linkage works fine. I'll probably flip the body lift correction drop bracket for the linkage bar so it is offset upwards and adjust as needed for it to be level again.

-fan shroud mounts will need to be redrilled so it can go down an inch

-possibly moving rear shock mounts or upper spring perches. But at 3 inch lift hopefully not

-And then rolling the pinion up again to match.

I think thats all i need at the moment?
 
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Also went through a lot of posts adding spelling corrections and tried to break it up into better structured posts. Stroker post has more info as do a few others. I threw this thread together quickly while distracted.hopefully some of that is remedied now
 
Sundays project was installing the curry correctlync i got way below cost.thanks @connor grimes !
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Waited for a box of goodies from black magic brakes to show up that complimented the currectlync install 😎
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Reverse taper drivers side knuckle. Blaine spec insert tig welded in.and his raised sway bar brackets.
 
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Whole lot of instructions with the currectlync. But it boiled down to moving the ball studs around till they took grease easily and indexing the pass side tie rod cotterpin hole in the ball joint to match the groove in the drag linķ.

Got the knuckle swapped and the sway bar brackets burned in. Still need to shorten the swaybar links an inch or so. Settled on threading them further down and cutting off the excess as needed to shorten them but ran out of time.
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Might seem like overkill for 33's,but I've bent zj tie rods twice that then wiped out tires.this should help with that.Cool little upgrade!

The tie rod angles up towards the drivers side at my 2.5" suspension lift height. At 4" lift it is closer to horizontal(for those who are bothered by that).also,when doing the flip i noticed the clamps on the tie rod could hit other parts if left to swing around with it during adjustment. I ground some small scallops in the clamping bolts so the clamps could swing independent of the tie rod and be indexed how i want them

I found it interesting that curry calls for 1/16" toe in to 1/8" toe out and 5* caster.
 
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Got a line on rear 3" curry coils for a great price. Hopefully that works out. My rear ome 942's only give an inch of lift.i keep my tj loaded down most of the time.

Thinking curry for the front or ome's next size up coil.
 
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ordered a front currie track bar for 470$ shipped today. Getting rid of rough country garbage one piece at a time!

Still waiting for the second hand 3" currie coils to ship....
 
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Rickyd said:
Donate 500$ towards my next mod and i'll rename it project Ibasketcase!
Click to expand...

That better not be an "i"...

Mannn how I wish I had 500$ for my jeep. Get in line. behind me.

Build looks good though. I need another correctlync.

Rickyd said:
Whole lot of instructions with the currectlync. But it boiled down to moving the ball studs around till they took grease easily and indexing the pass side tie rod cotterpin hole in the ball joint to match the groove in the drag linķ.

Got the knuckle swapped and the sway bar brackets burned in. Still need to shorten the swaybar links an inch or so. Settled on threading them further down and cutting off the excess as needed to shorten them but ran out of time.
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Might seem like overkill for 33's,but I've bent zj tie rods twice that then wiped out tires.this should help with that.Cool little upgrade!

The tie rod angles up towards the drivers side at my 2.5" suspension lift height. At 4" lift it is closer to horizontal(for those who are bothered by that).also,when doing the flip i noticed the clamps on the tie rod could hit other parts if left to swing around with it during adjustment. I ground some small scallops in the clamping bolts so the clamps could swing independent of the tie rod and be indexed how i want them

I found it interesting that curry calls for 1/16" toe in to 1/8" toe out and 5* caster.
Click to expand...

1/8" toe out? Yeah no thanks
 
lBasket said:
I think it's the tie rod. I couldn't adjust it right for my 31s, although it is seeming that it is working for the 33s. Ugh I also need money for it first lol
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The steering wheel wouldn't center? Or you couldn't set toe? Guys trim a small amount from the drag link or pitman arm threaded ends if the steering wheel won't center at lower lifts.

If your tie rod is relatively straight and you cant set toe I'd be worried about a bent knuckle.
 
Rickyd said:
The steering wheel wouldn't center? Or you couldn't set toe? Guys trim a small amount from the drag link or pitman arm threaded ends if the steering wheel won't center at lower lifts.

If your tie rod is relatively straight and you cant set toe I'd be worried about a bent knuckle.
Click to expand...

Oh no, I got it used from @rasband whom had smushed some of the threads on a rock so it has lost some of it's adjustability. It thrashed my 31s driving to Moab.

Since the tires are larger the adjustment for 1/8-1/6" of toe in is different and that section of the threads isn't mangled. I think that's how it works. We'll see what my tires think
 
lBasket said:
Oh no, I got it used from @rasband whom had smushed some of the threads on a rock so it has lost some of it's adjustability. It thrashed my 31s driving to Moab.

Since the tires are larger the adjustment for 1/8-1/6" of toe in is different and that section of the threads isn't mangled. I think that's how it works. We'll see what my tires think
Click to expand...

Gotcha, wouldn’t be hard to run a die down the threads and clean them up also if needed. Maybe a local machine shop has the right one?
 
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Got the currie track bar in without incedent. Drilled the trackbar frame mount to 5/8" and the axle mount to 1/2" per the instructions. Its the new version with a jj at the axle
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One more rough country part in the scrap pile!
Used this bar but it hit the stock diff cover and kept bending under anything but mild use
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If any of you hunt like me you may have went through several styles of gun racks trying to find something that is easy to access and isn't in the way. I like this utv mount with one side cut off to push it forward and flipped up and away from my head.several companies make the same thing.
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Fits even a large frame AR-10.pull the velcro straps and go to it.my head is close to the roof and this doesn't make me head shy.works with my soft top also.
 
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A bonus to this mount is your guns aren't easily visible from outside. Even when i run the soft top with no doors or windows its tucked up out of view
 
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