I ended up moving the shock crossmember when I stretched the frame which ended up giving me more room. My upper mounts & upper links just contact the tub. I'm only running 12" travel shocks so a little less than what you're running.
Trail_Krawler & Trail_Willys
- Thread starter kmas0n
- Start date
Would lowering the axle uppers help with the tub clearance? Not sure if the truss can be modified to drop those a little bit. The savvy midarm has 8.75” vertical separation at the axle and 6.25” vertical separation at the frame if that helps. Like you said though the tires may very well be the limit before those links hit anyways. Also, if your goal is to split the CO 50/50, 7” of uptravel may stop before the links hit the tub as well.
OP
That's a good idea, I'm going to see if I can lower the axle side upper mounts.
OP
I'm planning on cutting out the factory one like you did and fabricating something. It's currently notched for link clearance, but that's temporary
I think there might be some pictures of some crossmembers that Blaine's done around here. Or ask him. I didn't have to do anything other than move mine to gain enough room. Also by moving it I don't have to use any body mount pucks since it's moved up. So I gained 1.25".
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That's pretty much my reason too.. the rest of the body pucks are gone so why leave those two. The upper links need the room and the genright stretch tank could use a bit more real estate too.
I try not to bother Blaine any more than I have to, I'm already pestering him enough with dm's about brakes, steering, cooling and lots of other stuff. I was thinking of making a new cross member from DOM like genright does
I've been trying to decide if I am going to try to use a GR tank or go fuel cell. If I needed/wanted 1" more up travel I might have just notched the crossmember.
I'd like to use their new Crawler Comp tanks but they say they won't fit unless you're using coilovers. I'd get the 23 gallon tank if it would fit/work.
I think Blaine posted pictures in my thread of a crossmember but I'm on ignore now and I hate having to sign out to look.
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In other news, the jeep has a new name, my wife has declared Gru is now called Stein, the German word for stone, which I like. It's also after Frankenstein, because this jeep has so many parts from other jeeps and other brands, that it's barely a jeep anymore. Its also going to get painted Punk'n Orange, so its full name is now.
Punk'n Stein
Look around page 30 I think. Maybe a little before or after is where the frame stretch was discussed.
Like the new name for your Jeep. I've never named mine other than POS when it's died on me...
OP
After some thought, I'm moving forward with this logic...
At full bump I want the tops of the upper axle side johnny joints touching the cargo floor pan. I want to keep the jeep as low as possible and with no less than 6" of up travel at ride height. That's what I had before and that's what I want now. If I can get more- great. These are the minimum goals.
At full bump I want the tops of the upper axle side johnny joints touching the cargo floor pan. I want to keep the jeep as low as possible and with no less than 6" of up travel at ride height. That's what I had before and that's what I want now. If I can get more- great. These are the minimum goals.
OP
Don’t want to sound like a critic, just throwing some thoughts out there in case it’s helpful in thinking through it. I think your life may be a lot easier if you picked your ride height and then see how much clearance you need to make for 7” uptravel. Most of the builds like this I’ve seen start with 3 known constants- wheelbase, tire size, and belly height (ie ride height). If you’re missing that ride height constant, you may be solving a more complicated problem than you need to and be chasing a moving target by trying to fit as low ride height as possible. My other worry would be that if full bump is the links at the tub, you may be leaving wheel travel on the table during articulation if that puts the tire into the tub too early. It may work but even with just 6” of uptravel on a 4” lift height with 12” shocks, a 35” tire gets stuffed pretty tight in the opening at articulation. Either way you go I’d slap some tires on that puppy and see where the links are at with the tires stuffed.
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I agree completely.
In fact, I spent a good portion of the afternoon carefully shaping the foot wells with a hammer and managed to give the upper links another inch of travel.
Happy with a little forward progress, I completely switched gears and started mocking up the Gen right mini boat sliders and rear corner armor. I need to cut the wheel well openings on the armor and then the body. It looks like I can raise the wheel well openings about 1.25-1.5" higher than stock without getting into the cabin. Then I'll see where everything leads
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Using a laser to find the center of each wheel, I'm at 100.5" before messing with the front. What's my goal? As long as possible*
* Without going full hydro
* Without going full hydro
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