Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Purple TJ in AZ (just some of the stuff I've done thread)

July 5th I pressure washed everything down and smoothed out the gouges from cutting wheels and plasma cutting.



Then clamped the rear frame brackets in place and triple checked spacing.

IMG_0967.jpeg

IMG_0966.jpeg


I took a few minutes to consult with the designer for advice before burning them in.
He suggested turning down my settings or speeding my movement and not build up so much material. The settings did not produce satisfactory results so I went to my original settings and made faster passes.
Progress not perfection!


IMG_0969.jpeg
IMG_0968.jpeg


IMG_0962.jpeg
 
July 6th fitted and welded the truss to the rear axle

IMG_0976.jpeg

IMG_0975.jpeg


Now I have to figure out where the anti-rock brackets need to go. Probably have to put it under the Jeep and cycle it. Once they are set I will need to route the brake lines around all the brackets.

Also after looking at the bottom of the differential I may do a little hard facing on the bottom edge.


IMG_0974.jpeg
 
I slid the axle under the Jeep , hooked up the control arms and shocks. Anti-rock arms and tacked the link tab to the axle housing. Next step is to cycle it and see if anything touches anything it’s not supposed to.

View attachment 629402

Ok this looks easy. I’m going to tell you after hours of trial and error and multiple calls to @mrblaine this is way harder than it looks. Issac Newton had a basic law of physics that said no two things can occupy the same space at the same time so “fuck” this is hard. I am basically starting over, moving the torsion bar forward and modifying the whole kit. @mrblaine stated that the shocks decided where everything should go and work around that. I have a week on the east coast next week so after 8k miles of flying and some cooler weather I will update you on progress.
@mrblaine told me this mid arm kit is a walk in the park, the rear antirock will kick you in the nuts! My nuts hurt right now!


IMG_0979.jpeg
 
Ok this looks easy. I’m going to tell you after hours of trial and error and multiple calls to @mrblaine this is way harder than it looks. Issac Newton had a basic law of physics that said no two things can occupy the same space at the same time so “fuck” this is hard. I am basically starting over, moving the torsion bar forward and modifying the whole kit. @mrblaine stated that the shocks decided where everything should go and work around that. I have a week on the east coast next week so after 8k miles of flying and some cooler weather I will update you on progress.
@mrblaine told me this mid arm kit is a walk in the park, the rear antirock will kick you in the nuts! My nuts hurt right now!


View attachment 629987

Does the antirock usually go behind the axle?
 
Yes. On a TJ it has to go behind the axle. There is not enough room in front of the axle due to the shape of the tub. It’s a pretty straightforward installation if you don’t have outboard shocks. With outboards I have learned that the heim joint and rod must pass between the shock towers and the upper spring seat.

So ignoring the frame bracket for now , I moved the torsion rod forward. I am not able to put it exactly where I want it. On the left side I have the fuel filler hoses to get around but more challenging there is a floor cross member right where I want to be. I am pretty sure I will go in front of the cross member. In front i will need to shorten the arm about an inch or behind I would have to stretch it by two or three inches.

IMG_0985.jpeg

IMG_0983.jpeg


Once I have the arms reshaped to sneak around the shocks and towers and get the rod ends to land between the tower and spring seat, then I will reshape bushing brackets to fit between the bar and the frame. The frame arches up right where I need to be so I will have to adapt.


IMG_0986.jpeg
IMG_0984.jpeg
 
I'd loosen the filler hose at the tank, twist it to go more straight up, adjust the other end at the filler to make that play nice. Then I'd move the bar until it comes out between the hoses.

1752428842684.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper
I'd loosen the filler hose at the tank, twist it to go more straight up, adjust the other end at the filler to make that play nice. Then I'd move the bar until it comes out between the hoses.

View attachment 630100

I can do that but it will put me right under this tub cross member. There is only 5/16 clearance . That will push the bar into the top of the tank more than 3/8”. The tank vents are not going to allow that. So I would need to lower the tank some or raise the body some.

IMG_0987.jpeg
 
This may be a stupid question but is there any way to mount the sway bar to the axle itself and the heim joint links to the frame?
 
Last edited:
I can do that but it will put me right under this tub cross member. There is only 5/16 clearance . That will push the bar into the top of the tank more than 3/8”. The tank vents are not going to allow that. So I would need to lower the tank some or raise the body some.

View attachment 630116
These are where that spot is right behind the crossmember. Only place I can make them fit.
1752435717634.png


1752435827780.png


1752435973958.png
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator