Purple TJ in AZ (just some of the stuff I've done thread)

Update
We got back Rhode Island and had some time to think about this rear sway bar.
I started by moving the torsion back behind the tub cross member and adjusted the fuel filler hose to allow the bar to slip between the fill and vent hose like @mrblaine suggested.

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Then mounted the side brackets per instructions.


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I tried everything I could think of but couldn’t get the link to clear the tire, shock tower and shock body. The sweet spot was supposed to be between shock tower and spring seat, but the arms just weren’t long enough.


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Even if I shave the tower down even with the frame, the link end would impact the shock body when the axle drooped or articulated.

So my solution was to cut the arm weld in a two inch piece of 1/4 plate and plate the back side with a second 1/4” plate. Some more welding and grinding to make them look decent. So I guess the Antirock is now a mid-arm too.


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I still had to cut the corner of the shock tower to allow the link end clear on the down cycle. Many many adjustments, changes of spacers and cycling the suspension. I finally found the sweet spot

This was literally a battle of millimeters , but I think I won.


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Sprayed some roll bar paint on them .


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I need to pull the axle out now to weld up the link tabs and start making brake lines, and so much more.
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
Update
We got back Rhode Island and had some time to think about this rear sway bar.
I started by moving the torsion back behind the tub cross member and adjusted the fuel filler hose to allow the bar to slip between the fill and vent hose like @mrblaine suggested.

View attachment 632094

Then mounted the side brackets per instructions.


View attachment 632095

I tried everything I could think of but couldn’t get the link to clear the tire, shock tower and shock body. The sweet spot was supposed to be between shock tower and spring seat, but the arms just weren’t long enough.


View attachment 632096

Even if I shave the tower down even with the frame, the link end would impact the shock body when the axle drooped or articulated.

So my solution was to cut the arm weld in a two inch piece of 1/4 plate and plate the back side with a second 1/4” plate. Some more welding and grinding to make them look decent. So I guess the Antirock is now a mid-arm too.


View attachment 632097View attachment 632098

I still had to cut the corner of the shock tower to allow the link end clear on the down cycle. Many many adjustments, changes of spacers and cycling the suspension. I finally found the sweet spot

This was literally a battle of millimeters , but I think I won.


View attachment 632101View attachment 632102View attachment 632100View attachment 632099

Sprayed some roll bar paint on them .


View attachment 632103

I need to pull the axle out now to weld up the link tabs and start making brake lines, and so much more.
Click to expand...

Great work on the arms
 
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I started out with a universal kit with the steel arms. After some tweaking they ended up with a similar profile to yours. Here's how they compared to the aluminum TJ kit arms.

PXL_20230131_220955366.jpg
 
bty34 said:
I started out with a universal kit with the steel arms. After some tweaking they ended up with a similar profile to yours. Here's how they compared to the aluminum TJ kit arms.

View attachment 632548
Click to expand...

Those do look very similar to how mine turned out.
I inherited the kit I am using, so that involves modifying the forged arms. I thought more than a couple times that I should just order some different arms to make this job easier, but I'm kind of stubborn and cheap too. If I was going to advise anyone thinking about doing rear anti-rock with outboard shocks, I would tell them to get the kit with flat steel bars. Just pick the hole that lines up for clearance and cut the rest off, then bend as necessary to clear the towers. The forged arms are a bitch to get bent (relief cuts , heat and bend , weld back up and grind back down ) compared to just putting flat steel in a press.
 
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When I started this @mrblaine said my poison spider diff cover would not work. So I did some research and found that the early 90’s Dodge Dana 44 front covers were extra thick. I went to the wrecking yard and picked up two of them for $30
They are like twice as thick as the regular type.

I installed one and proceeded to do my truss

IMG_0974.jpeg


Then I had an idea to double them up. I mentioned to a couple people and they gave me some ideas, so a couple nights ago I did a little side project.

Sectioned out one of the covers


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Then laid it over the installed cover


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Opened all the gaps to allow weld through to the bottom cover and some magnets to hold it in place


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Some welding


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Some grinding


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Some paint


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I’m pretty happy with the result.
It cost me $30 and some time but ended up with a armored diff cover that’s more than a 1/4” thick.
 
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This weekend I did all the brake lines , installed the calipers.


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Then moved the axle back under the Jeep hopefully for good.


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Then moved to the exhaust. I cut 14” off the exhaust down pipe and moved everything forward. This will allow me to run my MF muffler tucked inside the skid plate and ending right at the control arm bracket.


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I just have to figure out how to dodge all the control arms to get it out the back..
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
When I started this @mrblaine said my poison spider diff cover would not work. So I did some research and found that the early 90’s Dodge Dana 44 front covers were extra thick. I went to the wrecking yard and picked up two of them for $30
They are like twice as thick as the regular type.

I installed one and proceeded to do my truss

View attachment 633263

Then I had an idea to double them up. I mentioned to a couple people and they gave me some ideas, so a couple nights ago I did a little side project.

Sectioned out one of the covers


View attachment 633267

Then laid it over the installed cover


View attachment 633268

Opened all the gaps to allow weld through to the bottom cover and some magnets to hold it in place


View attachment 633270

Some welding


View attachment 633271

Some grinding


View attachment 633272

Some paint


View attachment 633273

I’m pretty happy with the result.
It cost me $30 and some time but ended up with a armored diff cover that’s more than a 1/4” thick.
Click to expand...

Cool
 
^^^ That's creative pipe routing I've not seen posted here previously. Mine with RE 5.5" L-A kit and flat belly skid has minimal exhaust "muffling" or as Brits call it, "silencing" - being simply an old MF 4"x14" bullet with short turndown tip. Other than crafting something custom, I'm pushing the "easy button" with MF's 17122 kit on order, which is more similar than not being 5"x14" and with a bit longer tip allowing use of the rear-most hanger currently with nothing attached for support and stabilization (noting the forward hanger adjacent to 3rd cat allows that to touch "hard parts", which transmits even more resonance and dBA into the cab). I'm hoping combo of slightly larger can volume plus being new will attenuate acceptably as the best compromise I came up with. Mine is a dedicated trail rig with limited pavement time other than to access local USFS roads, so exhaust noise is less of an issue than if a daily driver.

Searching for an off-the-shelf "system" led me to Iron Rock's kit linked below. Their install video shows how much fitment work had to be done to get it in place and with disclaimer; only intended for their own L-A kit, thus I passed on that WRT probable encroachment with the passenger side RE lower arm, the RE belly skid or both. I truly enjoy the off-pavement ride with this suspension, however the old adage reminds; "ain't no free lunch" on performance mods.

Iron Rock Offroad: TJ Long Arm Exhaust Kit
 
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PurpleTJAZ said:
I spent a little time under the Jeep tonight laying out the tailpipe. I think it is going to look about like this…..
Still needs some tweaking but it misses everything it needs to and doesn’t look like crap.

View attachment 633669
View attachment 633670
Just need to figure out some clever hangers.
Click to expand...

Nice work. That's the route I took with mine, although a bit easier to pull off in the LJ. Good exhaust is always a challenge on these rigs.

..and I love the crabon fiber control arms. That's crazy hard core!

🙂
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
Nice work. That's the route I took with mine, although a bit easier to pull off in the LJ. Good exhaust is always a challenge on these rigs.

..and I love the crabon fiber control arms. That's crazy hard core!

🙂
Click to expand...

Yeah I hate doing exhaust. I think I have a decent set up. Now I need to go back to the front and build hangers and keep adjusting as I move to the back. I have an ultra flat skid plate so the cat and muffler need live at least one inch above the bottom edge of the frame. It’s going to be tight but I really wanted to retain as much of my MagnaFlow system as possible.
 
It was a busy Saturday

Finished the exhaust
Centered the rear axle
Set pinion angle
Bled brakes
Installed springs
Installed skid plate
Reinstalled e-brake cables
Reinstalled rear sway bar


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Another area that is really crowded

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It is finally setting on four tires for the first time in two months


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Plan on driving it a little tomorrow. Probably still a lot of things to tweak and shake down but it’s almost done.
 
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I put about twenty miles on the new set up this week and it rides amazing. I don’t notice any difference with a three link in the front vs. a four link. Perfectly stable but much smoother. No vibrations at all. I can already tell I’m going to be driving more enthusiastically and may order a sway-lock for the front to improve my on road experience.
I kind of rushed to get it driving because I have a ton of travel this month.
So I still have some loose ends to work out.

I had a drip on the transmission so I changed the neutral safety switch and dip stick tube seal, but it still leaks and now the new nss switch goes open circuit when it gets to running temp. I need to change the switch again and replace the transmission pan gasket .

The exhaust works and I am happy I could keep my MagnaFlow system by moving everything forward, but I really don’t like how it looks and I think it could be better.

Need to set my caster and then lock all my jam nuts down with a big breaker bar.

I will reinstall the engine skid when I am confident everything is dialed in.

Most of this will have to wait until I return from Europe at the end of August. I won’t be able to get it on the rocks until sometime in September.

IMG_1105.jpeg
 
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Back in town and been driving the Jeep around and dialing in some of the small issues.

Resealed the transmission pan using LubeLocker gasket and reinstalled the old neutral safety switch. Dripping and open circuit fixed. Reinstalled engine skid plate.

Had a pull to the left. Reset the toe-in. Was at zero and now at 3/16” toe in. Recentered the steering wheel. Another test drive is eminent.

It definitely urges me to drive faster. Swayloc in my near future.

Hope to get it on some dirt this weekend.
 
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Major transformation here, nice work. Now drive and enjoy it!
 
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