Putting it back on the road

OK. I'm loosing my mind. Help! I have ordered the proportioning valve twice. Both that showed up seem to be wrong. Do I just need to swap the end from the old one to the new one?!???!?

I also have had issues finding the correct upper radiator hose. The ones I find are to long and to large diameter on the radiator side....

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Well this evening I pulled the plug off the new valve. Put the old fitting on and installed it.

That's done. New head light installed. Will need to aim it. That will be Interesting. LOL! Will try when the sun goes down a little further.
 
Well this evening I pulled the plug off the new valve. Put the old fitting on and installed it.

That's done. New head light installed. Will need to aim it. That will be Interesting. LOL! Will try when the sun goes down a little further.

aiming halogen headlights is definitely no fun, especially with the splatter pattern the filament/housing projects. much easier with LED round headlights with a nice even cutoff but they can be pricey. by no means necessary but were a major major improvement in visibility at night. honestly not a fan of the bug eye look of the LED's but the tradeoff for visibility is worth it to me.
I've done my share of headlight adjusting and I can say I am not a fan of it LOL, left, right, up.. snap.. shit 🤦‍♂️ too much brittle plastic being used anymore. I feel for ya lol.
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I will agree with others be careful with not spending too much on this project. I have a TJ that looked just like this underneath and major league problems came up one by one as I worked on it. It's not that we don't think you spent enough time checking things out. It's just that frame damage can often times take a while to discover and is often in places that are impossible to reach/see without removing lower control arms, skid plate, etc. These places also sometimes look perfect on the outside. Another thing is the tools you are using, no, a angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment will never find frame damage. It will only ever grind off fine layers. You need a powerful needlescaler or be willing to hit the frame hard with a hammer, not lightly with a rubber mallet but an actual real hammer. People almost never do this so they think they have a solid frame when they don't. I guess the only good news is these frames don't crack, the holes just keep getting bigger and bigger.

On a lighter note, adjusting the headlights was a real pain, I went through that recently and still haven't gotten them pointed just right. The torx screws for up, down, left right are not even in the same position for driver and passenger lights. Also depending on how your assembly is pointed some of the torx screws are impossible to reach without pulling the headlights out at which point you are just blindly adjusting hoping you got the light the right amount of up/down etc and not too far. No you can't just lightly tighten up the retaining screws to see what the light pattern looks like. You need to fully screw them all the way in to see what the end result is then unscrew all the way out to make the slightest adjustment. Really quite annoying and looking back on it now I should have just left the light pattern alone instead of nitpicking everything.
 
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aiming halogen headlights is definitely no fun, especially with the splatter pattern the filament/housing projects. much easier with LED round headlights with a nice even cutoff but they can be pricey. by no means necessary but were a major major improvement in visibility at night. honestly not a fan of the bug eye look of the LED's but the tradeoff for visibility is worth it to me.
I've done my share of headlight adjusting and I can say I am not a fan of it LOL, left, right, up.. snap.. shit 🤦‍♂️ too much brittle plastic being used anymore. I feel for ya lol.
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If you're aiming your headlights that close to the door...you need to read more about aiming headlights.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
 
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If you're aiming your headlights that close to the door...you need to read more about aiming headlights.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

Definitely not aiming them at its present location shown in the photo.

Was showing a example of a cutoff on the low beam and high beam.

Like i said, I’ve done my share of headlight aiming.

aiming them too close to a wall of door would present a major problem as you wouldn't know what angle its casting the light to. up close to the wall it would look good then and there if you weren't aware of the elevation of the "beam". backing up about 20 or so feet away from the wall would give you a pretty good indication of your adjustment. adjusting halogens though you just have a slightly brighter spot than a smooth cutoff with the LED headlight (unless you get the insanely cheap multiple diode LED headlight which would have no possibility of adjusting as there is no beam pattern.)
 
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Thank you for the input!
I have hit the frame hard with a hammer. My wife thought I was nuts. But I have reined in the small projects at this time to only what is needed to get on the road. Then drive it for a while and see what popes up.

Also, I have to stop working for a while. Maybe until spring, as I have torn my lower bicep tendon. Will find out Tuesday how long I will be sidelined. :(
 
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Well, it will be about 4 months to recover from surgery.
But I decided to get new keys made. I needed something to keep me going. LOL

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its hit and miss with older key blanks. sure they are available but do they have them on hand is the question. good work, replaced my worn keys with vin cut too.
 
I received permission to drive and work on the jeep!!!!
Registered and insured it and started to put some miles on it. I have found that the rear pinion bearings are shot. So I will be scheduling an axle over haul. The rest of the drive line seems to be in good shape. Checked the oil in the diff's and the trans and transfer. All at level and the oil smelled and looked like oil!

I can confirm that the shocks and stabilizer are all OEM 1999 vintage and only there for looks currently! LOL Driving was an experience. They will be the next item to take care of after the axle work is completed. (Yes I am farming it out, I just do not have the strength or desire to take on that work)

Also the exhaust manifold has a cracked pipe and broken welds. How the heck did that happen???? So that will be on the list also.

It was so much fun to put a few miles on. It has made everything worth it so far. I was afraid that a 30 year absents from driving a manual would be a problem. It just came back after a few stops. I am so happy.

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Well back in the saddle again, after a year. o_O:ROFLMAO:
I have replaced the exhaust manifold and the motor mount under it. Also the other motor mount when I had to replace the alternator (bearing let go). LOL!!
It is nice to be able to hear myself think while test driving.
Finally got to check out what the "Check engine" light was all about. Idle Ari Control was bad. Replaced it and after a few start cycles, the check engine light is cleared!!! This is a big step. I have to pass emissions to keep it registered.
I plan to replace the fan clutch this weekend and then go though the emissions test lane.

Thanks to all those on the forums. This place is a great resource.
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Well the fan clutch didn't solve the issue with running hot. Just replaced, what I believe to be, the original radiator. I think it was time..... LOL :ROFLMAO:

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I know how ya feel with the injury. I'm four months in on a completely crushed hand/wrist not to mention my jeep was midway through a total overhaul. Friends who wrench are good to have and easy to come by especially with free beer haha. This is motivating to see. Good luck with your jeep, looks like quite the project!
 
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Dand, no air flow! What is all that stuff?

Just the fins disintegrating. You can just wipe off the fins with your hand. Never seen this before.
I think that is why the temp would rise to normal, then slowly just keep creeping up. Not enough surface area to disipate the heat?