Rancho RS5000X Shock Question

Here is what I know from mine before I started cutting and moving mounts. With 1.25" body lift and 33s, the front needed 1.5" of bump stop extension to keep the tires out of the fenders. The rear shocks collapsed to 13.3" and needed 1" extension to keep them from over compressing.
 
This is 33s on a 2” BB. I’ll have more lift than this. It looks good to me proper bump and I’ll be fine on potholes and speed bumps and yes, I avoid every pothole I can. I take speed bumps slow too.

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How much suspension up travel is there? Factory was about 4". If the bump stops are where they ought to be, damage from pot holes, etc isn't going to happen. But the ride will not be as good as it could be with more ride height.
 
How much suspension up travel is there? Factory was about 4". If the bump stops are where they ought to be, damage from pot holes, etc isn't going to happen. But the ride will not be as good as it could be with more ride height.
That thing has about 3" until it contacts the flare. So with a BB it would need probably close to 4" of extension to avoid contact. You are more likely to do some serious damage just driving down the road and not seeing a dip/bump/pothole than while crawling off road at ultra low speed. Many do not seem to understand that part of the equation.
 
Just for fun I have a Currie 4 inch lift only (no body lift) I am running 33x12.5 with almost 4 inch bs tires, and I have 2 inch metalcloaks in the front and 2.25" Old man emu bumpstops in the rear, and that gave me a little room to spare for my 33's. Same with the shocks.
 
Just for fun I have a Currie 4 inch lift only (no body lift) I am running 33x12.5 with almost 4 inch bs tires, and I have 2 inch metalcloaks in the front and 2.25" Old man emu bumpstops in the rear, and that gave me a little room to spare for my 33's. Same with the shocks.
What determined your bump stop extensions? What were your first points of interference?
 
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What determined your bump stop extensions? What were your first points of interference?
I did exactly what you suggested to me as the same as you suggested earlier in this thread. I cycled my suspension while my springs and swaybars were disconnected. Removed the jounces.
 
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I did exactly what you suggested to me as the same as you suggested earlier in this thread. I cycled my suspension while my springs and swaybars were disconnected. Removed the jounces.
Not doubting you and what you arrived at. I'm hoping to show examples of how the correct amount of extension is entirely dependent on the specific Jeep being discussed.

The common goal is to always find the first point of interference and limit the up travel just before that interference occurs.
 
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Not doubting you and what you arrived at. I'm hoping to show examples of how the correct amount of extension is entirely dependent on the specific Jeep being discussed.

The common goal is to always find the first point of interference and limit the up travel just before that interference occurs.
Ya I wasn't trying to contradict your directions. I only wanted to show an example of how all jeeps are a little different, and where mine was. My statement had nothing to do with what you were trying to get the OP to do, other than me doing what you suggested and the results of that. It was just an example.
 
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That thing has about 3" until it contacts the flare. So with a BB it would need probably close to 4" of extension to avoid contact. You are more likely to do some serious damage just driving down the road and not seeing a dip/bump/pothole than while crawling off road at ultra low speed. Many do not seem to understand that part of the equation.

Mine would have more clearance than that Jeep too, so I would probably have 5-6” between the tire and flare.


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Well obviously my first point of interference would be the tire with the fender/flare, so I’ll see what I can do. Right now I’m on the stock 30s and I’ll most likely be fine. I’m definitely going 33s though. I don’t like a huge fender gap. A 4inch lift and 33s is too much space for me, but if your an avid off-roader that is what you NEED. I don’t plan on going to Moab or the Rubicon trail. Just some forrest service roads. I understand about the potholes and speed bumps. I could just flex on a rock and let it come into contact with the fender and then see how much bump I need. I would rather do that than deal with taking out and putting the springs back in. Think I’m crazy, but I don’t have this kind of time. I don’t have a garage, so I have 2 hrs a night to work on it. I want to run 3.75-4”s of BS.


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Ignore the flexible flare. What you care about is stopping the front tire from hitting sheet metal at full flex.

Pay attention to the amount of suspension up travel you have. Less than 4" is a downgrade from a stock TJ.

Again, it is better to have too much bump stop extension, than not enough. The trade off for having too much is an unnecessary reduction of suspension up travel. Personally, on my daily driver, I want as much up travel as I can get, so I have made sure that there is just enough extension on mine.
 
Ignore the flexible flare. What you care about is stopping the front tire from hitting sheet metal at full flex.

Pay attention to the amount of suspension up travel you have. Less than 4" is a downgrade from a stock TJ.

Again, it is better to have too much bump stop extension, than not enough. The trade off for having too much is an unnecessary reduction of suspension up travel. Personally, on my daily driver, I want as much up travel as I can get.

Yeah, this is my daily. How can I measure up travel? I just need to find a good sized rock or stump that I can flex on. Should I disconnect? I never plan on disconnecting though.


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With the understanding that the bump stops are supposed to be the hard limit to the suspension up travel, measure the space between the steel pad on the axle and the steel cup hanging down from the frame. That is how much available up travel there is. Anything that mashes together before the cup and pad make hard contact is at risk of causing damage.
 
With the understanding that the bump stops are supposed to be the hard limit to the suspension up travel, measure the space between the steel pad on the axle and the steel cup hanging down from the frame. That is how much available up travel there is. Anything that mashes together before the cup and pad make hard contact is at risk of causing damage.

Ok, I’ll do that tomorrow.

Edit: I can’t. I have it on jack stands in the rear and the front is compressed, so I will probably do it this weekend.


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Here is what I know from mine before I started cutting and moving mounts. With 1.25" body lift and 33s, the front needed 1.5" of bump stop extension to keep the tires out of the fenders. The rear shocks collapsed to 13.3" and needed 1" extension to keep them from over compressing.

You only had 1.25” of body lift and 33s? Then I’ll be fine with 2.5-3”s of lift and no body lift. I’ll probably need 2”s all around, so 8 hockey pucks.



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You only had 1.25” of body lift and 33s? Then I’ll be fine with 2.5-3”s of lift and no body lift. I’ll probably need 2”s all around, so 8 hockey pucks.



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No. I have run 33s and an 1.25" body lift with as little as 2" and currently with 4" of spring. Early on with my Old Man Emu N66/N67 shocks, I had maybe 3.5" of up travel, 5.25" down. I ran them briefly with the current Currie 4" springs, finally resulting in about 6.5" of up and 2.25" down. That was when I really began to understand and appreciate up travel; even though the shock travels were out of balance. The bump stop extension from that first version of the build never changed despite the increases in lift height simply because the shocks and tire size never changed.

My point in not mentioning lift height is that spring lift has no direct bearing on the amount of required bump stop extension. Any relationship is coincidental. Lift height is what provides up travel until the bump stops stop it.

Currently, with relocated shock mounts and (effectively) the same bump stop extensions and still on 33s, I have 6.5" up, 4" down in the front and 7" up, 5" down in the rear. The Jeep has never ridden as well as it does now.
 
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No. I have run 33s and an 1.25" body lift with as little as 2" and currently with 4" of spring. Early on with my Old Man Emu N66/N67 shocks, I had maybe 3.5" of up travel, 5.25" down. I ran them briefly with the current Currie 4" springs, finally resulting in about 6.5" of up and 2.25" down. That was when I really began to understand and appreciate up travel; even though the shock travels were out of balance. The bump stop extension from that first version of the build never changed despite the increases in lift height simply because the shocks and tire size never changed.

My point in not mentioning lift height is that spring lift has no direct bearing on the amount of required bump stop extension. Any relationship is coincidental. Lift height is what provides up travel until the bump stops stop it.

Currently, with relocated shock mounts and (effectively) the same bump stop extensions and still on 33s, I have 6.5" up, 4" down in the front and 7" up, 5" down in the rear. The Jeep has never ridden as well as it does now.

So bumpstop only depends on the tire size and compressed shock length, correct?


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So bumpstop only depends on the tire size and compressed shock length, correct?


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Most of the time, it seems. There are other potential interferences like an aftermarket front track bar hitting an aftermarket diff cover, for example.

Bump stops are intended to stop up travel before something else causes an interference. Most often that will be tires hitting the front fenders and rear shocks over-compressing.
 
Most of the time, it seems. There are other potential interferences like an aftermarket front track bar hitting an aftermarket diff cover, for example.

Bump stops are intended to stop up travel, before something else causes an interference. Most often that will be tires and shocks.

I don’t have anything aftermarket up front. I’ll order my tires and set the bumpstop for them, flexing on a rock or stump.


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33s with a 4 inch lift because you never know when an Amarillo will need flattening. (potholes hide in the dark, avoidance is impossible)

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