Rear Spring Relocation Without Adding Height?

jjvw said:
I would lean towards the 55256.
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Thought you might and hoped you'd chime in. I was leaning that way - sounds more simple. Gain some up-travel for loss of some down.

Just happens all of them are in stock at Summit and with them right down the road in Sparks (300 miles) I could have them in a day or two. Even if I hate them it'll be better for all of us than this excruciating exercise:LOL:, and all say they're an improvement over the Bilsteins.
 
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NOTNSUV said:
Rancho RS55255 (Front)15.6910.7326.42
Rancho RS55256 (Front)15.069.6224.68
Rancho 55256 (Rear)15.069.6324.69

@Chris

Pasted from the Spring/Shock resource.
I confirmed on the Rancho website that RS55255 is Front and RS55256 is Rear. The site list shows both as Front.
Had me going.:D

https://www.gorancho.com/products/s...er/rancho-rs5000x-shock-absorber-rs55255.htmlhttps://www.gorancho.com/products/s...er/rancho-rs5000x-shock-absorber-rs55256.html
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Thanks for this! I updated the chart.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
What are you doing to get rid of it? Atlas?

When I checked this on my TJ which did not have a tuck, the DC bound around 27" of shock length. The rs55332 will be well into that territory.
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While that number may be correct for your situation, it is not correct across the board which is the problem using numbers. The ONLY way to know is to check it. I consistently do builds with very similar constraints. Raised belly, wheelbase back to the diff cover rubbing paint on the Savvy tank skid, body lift, 35's and 12" travel out boarded rear shocks, Rubi t-case. Half get a center limit strap, half don't.

But, I also see lots of builds from well known shops that should have them and don't.
 
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jjvw said:
Those big discs on the axle side are early-TJ spring isolators. Mine didn't have them and still doesn't. I have no thoughts either way.

If I were to extend stock bumps again, I would copy what Currie/RockJock does. I would bolt a 3" diameter body lift puck to the lower bump and extend the upper cup down with a 2" diameter body lift puck. I would cut each side to be about half the height of the total mount of extension needed.
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Got a hole drilled and tapped in the lower spring mount and have the recommended body mounts to cut to length. Do you counter-sink the bolt in the lower body mount?
 
NOTNSUV said:
Got a hole drilled and tapped in the lower spring mount and have the recommended body mounts to cut to length. Do you counter-sink the bolt in the lower body mount?
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I didn't. But it wouldn't hurt anything to do so.
 
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I've always wondered where pin top shocks are measured from. Top of the shaft? Threaded portion? Rubber bushing included? Steel washer included?
 
kmas0n said:
I've always wondered where pin top shocks are measured from. Top of the shaft? Threaded portion? Rubber bushing included? Steel washer included?
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Base of the stud. Washer and bushing are not included but you should figure about a half inch for those.
 
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Is this a problem? Previous shocks were tube up.

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Raised from the pumpkin, both ends, trackbar connected but not the swaybar and no springs. 1" or less shock remaining and hard on the bumps.
Miniscule tire clearance but new flares might help.

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That black jounce bumper is designed to smash all the way into that metal cup. That means the metal cup with hit the hockey puck under a hard hit. If you only have an inch of shock shaft remaining, that means the shock will bottom out before the bump stop.
 
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Take out the soft jounces when cycling the axle. The shock should reach full compression at the same time the steel cup touches the axle pad.

Also, that's a hockey puck. 🙁
 
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jjvw said:
Take out the soft jounces when cycling the axle. The shock should reach full compression at the same time the steel cup touches the axle pad.
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Remembered that right after I posted the pictures. Easy enough to adjust.
jjvw said:
Also, that's a hockey puck. 🙁
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I knew you'd notice. I used them as a mock-up and are easier to counter sink than the body mounts. But now that it appears there might be no contact with the bolt head I might go with the body mounts. Or, the aluminum pucks that were in it originally. I've already counter sunk those. The other 'puck' that was in there is harder plastic and has a smaller diameter than a standard hockey puck.
 
NOTNSUV said:
Remembered that right after I posted the pictures. Easy enough to adjust.

I knew you'd notice. I used them as a mock-up and are easier to counter sink than the body mounts. But now that it appears there might be no contact with the bolt head I might go with the body mounts. Or, the aluminum pucks that were in it originally. I've already counter sunk those. The other 'puck' that was in there is harder plastic and has a smaller diameter than a standard hockey puck.
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They do work great as mock up spacers
 
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Well, took it for a ride today. Only about 15 miles on pavement, some of which is pretty bumpy. The Rancho 5000x feel way better than the 5100 that came off.. way better, and still a solid feel. No shake/rattle/roll and steered straight up to about 70 mph (in a 55) so that's nice. I'm going to install the new RJ trackbar soon and will align or have it aligned after that, just for POM.

So I loaded my usual junk in the back, recovery gear, traction boards, spare parts and fluids, tools - it might have dropped the rear end an inch.
Tomorrow our gang is going out in the boonies so it'll be a good shakedown run with folks who cover each other's butts if there's trouble. Low temp below zero, high about 38* so we shouldn't encounter much mud. We will be making 2 or 3 river crossings but it should be flowing and at low levels, and some snow covered goodies. Icy conditions are all that might bother us.

Motive 5.13 ship Monday so will get that + RGA axles install scheduled and install the BBK before that. Then I'll do the SpeedHealer.

Thanks to everyone for the assist on this project.. you know who you are.
 
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