Recommended battery terminal replacements?

Again, why? Soldering for that size wire is neither appropriate nor recommended. By the time you get the wire hot enough to flow, you have very likely damaged the insulation and you can't control the solder flow which gets sucked out into the conductor and creates a stress riser at the end of it which can cause cable failure under vibration.
Did you notice that with a good crimp that the cable and connector are one? That's what you want, a solid sealed connection and you get a better one with a high level of deformation than you do with solder.
That is my point. A solder connection would not perform no where near as good as a hydro crimp in that application. It would have dispelled the myth that solder is always good. The results would likely have been worse than the hammer and screwdriver he used.
 
View attachment 25905

Here is my set up.

Terminals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Cables
Came from EBAY from a store called genuinedealz
I would send a link but if I send Ebay links it only takes you to the front page for whatever reason.
I replaced all of my cables with two gauge on the primary battery and 1 gauge on the secondary used the terminals above for both batteries (both positive and ground).

The cables are quality and I buy all of my cables there. Never had any issues.

The cables are reasonable, but the terminals are expensive, but the look outstanding and they work good.

By the way same exact setup in both my TJ and my RAM truck.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/genuinedealz?_trksid=p2047675.l2559


Any chance either of you recall the lengths needed for those cables?
I would really like to get them ordered before I rip them out.
 
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Any chance either of you recall the lengths needed for those cables?
I would really like to get them ordered before I rip them out.
Sorry in hindsight, I probably should have recorded it, but I just made rough estimates before I took mine apart too using a tape measure. Mine would be a little different anyway because I have dual batteries. I did mine about a year and a half ago.
 
Thank any ways.

I found this nifty pic on custombatterycables.com

From left to right the gauges are 2,6,2,4,4

But I’m probably going to order from batterycablesusa.com and put it all together myself with some military style terminals. Right now the cables alone are about 50$ plus the terminals that’s 70$ for the whole thing. Only difference is there is no fuse link if I go this way

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My thought would be that high heat could actually melt the solder making the connector come apart.
I am a firm believer in Crimp and Solder. if it is hot enough to melt the solder , you have other issues!

edit just goes to show, read the entire thread before responding!
I am a journeyman motor and marine electrician, and I have learned a lot!

I actually use a small mechanical crimper when I am doing ring connectors
it looks something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UUVT0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Just about to place this order but wanted to check if anyone had any input on the “fuse link” part from the fuse box to the alternator.
I’m simply ordering a new 4 guage cable to replace it without the fuse link.. think any real issues will come from it?
Thanks guys
 
Just about to place this order but wanted to check if anyone had any input on the “fuse link” part from the fuse box to the alternator.
I’m simply ordering a new 4 guage cable to replace it without the fuse link.. think any real issues will come from it?
Thanks guys
the fusible link is a protection. if say, the battery cable was rubbing on a pully (for an example) once it got through the cable insulation, you have a direct short to ground. with a massive output of current it may cause the battery to explode. So yes, you want to fuse link...
 
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the fusible link is a protection. if say, the battery cable was rubbing on a pully (for an example) once it got through the cable insulation, you have a direct short to ground. with a massive output of current it may cause the battery to explode. So yes, you want to fuse link...

So I have the 90 degree angle at the PDC and the other end is 5/16 hole to the alternator.. which end would I put the fuse link on and how long of a wire should the link be? I’ve got some 4awg so I was thinking an 8awg fuse link. After this I think I’m all set! I’m pumped!
 
So I have the 90 degree angle at the PDC and the other end is 5/16 hole to the alternator.. which end would I put the fuse link on and how long of a wire should the link be? I’ve got some 4awg so I was thinking an 8awg fuse link. After this I think I’m all set! I’m pumped!
The fusible link gauge needs to be 10 gauge, that's not a circuit where bigger is better. The TJ's fusible link is just a short length of 10 gauge wiring spliced into the main 6 gauge wire. A fusible link is typically 2 gauge sizes smaller than what it is protecting.

This is the TJ's fusible link circuit...
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For battery terminals I'd always have them crimped on when you have the proper heavy duty lugs and hydraulic crimping tool to do the job correctly. I am huge on soldering wiring connectors but I wouldn't solder battery or welding cable connectors.
Seems like a good idea until the solder crumbles from vibration, on a battery cable.
 
The fusible link gauge needs to be 10 gauge, that's not a circuit where bigger is better. The TJ's fusible link is just a short length of 10 gauge wiring spliced into the main 6 gauge wire. A fusible link is typically 2 gauge sizes smaller than what it is protecting.

This is the TJ's fusible link circuit...
View attachment 79332

They guys at battery cables USA has been really helping me out. Getting some 90 degree lugs and stuff. Would 5-6 inches be enough length for the link?
 
Thanks so much for the input, I really appreciate it!

So I found this list on the same site I got that diagram from and they use 4 awg for the fuse link not 6. The battery cable USA guy is recommending an 8awg since the wire is 4awg. If it was kept at 6 awg then the fuse link would be 10 awg right?

A few people from here have ordered from customebatterycables but it’s just too pricey for me. Why would they offer the fuse box to alternator wire at 4g? can anyone confirm they fusable link on their 4 awg set up?
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