Recommended re-gear for 31" tires?

Not likely. I actually gained about 10% in fuel mileage going from 3.07 to 4.10. Not that I cared, but it was a pleasant surprise.

Even if I didn't, a TJ sucks so bad in the full mileage department, that I'd rather have a funner vehicle to drive with more power, even if gas mileage was less, but it will most likely actually improve. It's not good with 3.07's anyway.

I wonder how much driving habit comes into play. At 3.07.. I would guess the driver is more aggressive during acceleration.

But.. cruising on the Highway, I would bet 3.07 is much better in mpg.

just my imo.
 
I wonder how much driving habit comes into play. At 3.07.. I would guess the driver is more aggressive during acceleration.

But.. cruising on the Highway, I would bet 3.07 is much better in mpg.

just my imo.
Actually on the highway is where the 3.07's really sucked, and probably when I got the worst mileage. The only time the 3.07's didn't completely suck, was if the highway was completely flat, or slight decline, and absolutely no head wind.

It made zero power at highway speeds to pass or even maintain speed on the slightest incline or head wind. I could only make power by down shifting into second gear, where I was reving higher than my 4.10's in 3 rd gear which can easily maintain speed or pass without downshifting.
 
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I really wish that BJ video would go away. It's based on poor assumptions and leads people to bad decisions on a very costly modification.

IMO, 3.07 gears never should have been installed on a Jeep. I have a feeling it was EPA inspired, not performance inspired and likely didn't perform in real life the way it does on paper.

It's the only explanation that makes any sense from a company that produced nearly identical vehicles with both 4.10 and 3.07 gears.
 
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Yukon makes parts for you axles. They will work.

Post re-gear, it will still be a Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...d-what-the-difference-is-with-each-axle.9060/
You can type your VIN into a website and get a parts list of what you Jeep came with. It will include the axle identification.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-build-sheet-lookup.219/page-2

Got ya. Thats exactly what the mechanic told me today. He also said I will need new Dana carriers for both since it was a 3.07. He also mentioned something about the back carrier and if it has a 'posse' or 'passive'.. not exactly sure what this meant but he said its not a big deal if I don't go off-road... he said mine might have it, he just doesn't know until he opens it up.
 
I'm running 31" General Grabber ATX tires with the H&R 1" springs and the Rancho 5000's. I actually got 1.5" of lift out of the H&R's, which I like. Rides great, no complaints.

View attachment 149843

Wow, looks really nice. I hope my Jeep looks as good as that when its done. I got the KO2 tires (31x10.5R15), and will have the same shocks and springs as you.

Did you install the shocks and springs yourself? If yes, how long did it take you, one day?
 
Got ya. Thats exactly what the mechanic told me today. He also said I will need new Dana carriers for both since it was a 3.07. He also mentioned something about the back carrier and if it has a 'posse' or 'passive'.. not exactly sure what this meant but he said its not a big deal if I don't go off-road... he said mine might have it, he just doesn't know until he opens it up.
Posi-traction/limited slip is what he was referring to.
 
Thanks - is it something I should be concerned about?
Well, if you have a ls now and want to keep it you have two options. One, if a thick 4.10 is available you can run that on the current carrier. If not, you need a new ls carrier. At that point, I'd choose the Truetrac over the factory ls which is weak and not very effective. Likely, you have an open carrier which can be swapped out.
 
I’m in the same boat you are in. When calling around, ask about axle seals. Some require it, some suggest it, and some do not mention it at all.
 
And just what are those poor assumptions?
It does not take into account transmission or engine. An engine putting out 400 ft/lbs of torque can use less gear than one that puts out 200. An engine that builds power down low needs less gear than one that needs rpm's to build power. It is a one size fits all approach, which does not work.
 
Wow, looks really nice. I hope my Jeep looks as good as that when its done. I got the KO2 tires (31x10.5R15), and will have the same shocks and springs as you.

Did you install the shocks and springs yourself? If yes, how long did it take you, one day?
Thanks.

Yes, I did it all myself, one day sounds about right. The shocks were pretty simple, I was lucky. Some people have trouble with the upper bolts on the rears as they tend to get stuck but mine were clean.

Quick tip on the Ranchos - I remember reading that the factory finish isn’t the best so I painted mine a few days before install with several coats of SEM Primer and SEM Trim Black.
 
And just what are those poor assumptions?
The big one is it assumes that you want to get back to stock. Just because that's what the vehicle came with doesn't mean that's what was best from the factory.

Running 33" tires with a manual trans at 3.73 (assuming it has O/D) would be very lackluster. If some Jeeps came from the factory with 3.73 or 4.10 gears with a 29-31" tall tire why would you only want to run a 3.73 gear for an even larger tire?

This goes back to Blaine's complaint that something presented from a position of authority doesn't automatically make it right but it does get people to listen to bad advice.
 
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Anyone think its a good idea for me to replace the front track bar before I get the tires mounted/balanced and alignment done? I found this Moog Track bar on amazon for fairly cheap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5403G/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Our Jeep tends to shake when reaching 65-70 on the highway, I know that could be a tire balancing issue(Tires are very worn).. or it could be the track bars (Which are 22 years old).. I figured since I'm already doing all this work on the suspension, why not install this before the alignment.

I know many people recommend the Currie track bars, but I think those are mostly for Jeeps with a 2" lift or more.. Let me know what you guys think and if this Moog track bar is the right way to go if I decide to replace it.
 
Have someone help you do a steering test. Turn the wheel back and forth with the engine off just enough to barely start moving the tires. You look at the suspension/ steering while they move the wheel. Look for anything that moves that shouldn't or looks loose.

Thanks will definitely give that a try. I know when we turn the steering wheel lately there is a sound almost like a creaking/squeak.. so I assume something may be worn out with the steering or suspension underneath
 
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parts came in today. Waiting for a few more things then excited to start installing these guys!
 
Also - the other question I had was that with my H&R springs.. will it throw off my alighnment of my track bar if it's not an adjustable track bar? I know 1-1/5"'s may not seem like a lot but it's something I want to consider as well.
 
Also - the other question I had was that with my H&R springs.. will it throw off my alighnment of my track bar if it's not an adjustable track bar? I know 1-1/5"'s may not seem like a lot but it's something I want to consider as well.

It might be off center very slightly, but if you are replacing the TB anyway, this is a good option for an adjustable unit.

https://www.roughcountry.com/adjustable-track-bar-7572.html