Regret with 35s?

GreenTexasTJ

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I have a 2000 TJ with 4.0, 5 speed, Dana 30/Dana 44, 33s, 3.73 gear ratio, and rear locker. I dropped it off at the shop Friday for some work, but I'm thinking of getting gears, front shafts, and a front locker installed while it is there. I'm torn between 4.56 or 4.88 as I'm contemplating 35s.

I know I would have to upgrade brakes again, steering, and rear shafts to run 35s which is not a problem.

I was wondering if anyone regrets their decision of going with 35s? More specifically, after investing in the upgraded components, are you breaking other components of your Jeep now due to the added stress 35s cause? I don't mind spending the money to do it right if I don't have to worry about breaking something everytime I wheel with 35s. If it is a domino effect and I will start breaking other components, I will stick with 33s and go 4.56.

Thanks.
 
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For what it’s worth, I have a 97 4.0 5 speed geared 4.56. I bought it used with 35’s already on it. I thought I’d want to go to 33’s before I bought it but after driving it I fell in love with the 35’s. I wish mine was geared 4.88 but honestly the 4.56 isn’t really too bad. My wife has a stock 2011 JK automatic and the off-road experience between the 2 is a noticeable improvement over the JK for my taste. We mostly just go desert exploring here in AZ. Nothing to hard core. My 2 cents... go for it! ;o)
 
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Your axle should be fine with 35,s, but you definitely should go with 4.88 gears, maybe even 5.13. That being said, and since I have 35,s with 4.88, I would stay with 33,s. 35,s are "cool" but even with proper gearing, the Jeep is a stone. In my opinion, the 4.0, although a great motor, just ain't got the beans to get the job done. My Jeep came with the tires and gears. I would stick with 33,s but definitely go with 4.56 gears, and you'll have a Jeep that can still get out of its own way.
 
I don’t regret my 35s one bit. I’m in love with the way they look! I’ve beefed things up enough that I am not worried about breaking anything. I’m also not throttle heavy by any means, so I’m not one of those people who is prone to breaking much to begin with.
 
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35s shouldn't cause any more failures than 33s other than axle shafts and possibly more frequent wheel bearings. Once you have chomo shafts it's all good. Personally I wouldn't have a smaller tire for where I wheel.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
My regret is gearing 4.56 thinking I would never go to 35s. Now that I have 35s, the 4.56s are not enough. Wish I would have gone a step or two deeper in gearing
 
My regret is gearing 4.56 thinking I would never go to 35s. Now that I have 35s, the 4.56s are not enough. Wish I would have gone a step or two deeper in gearing

That’s not what I was wanting to read. I’m going to 35’s within the year and have 4.56’s as well. Maybe I’ll have to factor in a 5.13 swap then... Is it only bad on the inclines in Colorado or do you find it bad off-road as well?
 
That’s not what I was wanting to read. I’m going to 35’s within the year and have 4.56’s as well. Maybe I’ll have to factor in a 5.13 swap then... Is it only bad on the inclines in Colorado or do you find it bad off-road as well?

It's bearable, but 4.88/5.13 would give me just a little more oomph. Some of the passes around here I can keep up with traffic if I wrap up the RPMs in 4th. It's my daily too
 
I've recently went from 33's to 35's and am absolutely in love with them! I have an 05 Rubi 6spd still with the factory 4.10's and it's ok, but not ideal. It was perfect for 33's, but would be better with 4.56 or 4.88's now.

As far as stuff breaking, a lot of it depends on how you wheel. If you're easy on the skinny pedal, and use a winch or get a tug instead of beating on it, you'll be fine.
 
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So, I’ve been running 33’s with next to no problems for a few years (while wheeling pretty hard). What are the biggest things I should worry about after I go to 35’s? I’m already doing axle shafts, brakes, and steering. Do I need to worry about ball joints or anything else like that? I like to wheel pretty hard and “laying off the skinny” pedal might not be possible for me :D. I’m not stupid (no broken shafts while on 33’s) but I like to hit things fairly hard...
 
So, I’ve been running 33’s with next to no problems for a few years (while wheeling pretty hard). What are the biggest things I should worry about after I go to 35’s? I’m already doing axle shafts, brakes, and steering. Do I need to worry about ball joints or anything else like that? I like to wheel pretty hard and “laying off the skinny” pedal might not be possible for me :D. I’m not stupid (no broken shafts while on 33’s) but I like to hit things fairly hard...
Your ball joints will be fine with 35's. You didn't mention what steering or brakes you're going to be doing but with a strong enough tie rod, better brakes, stock ball joints, and proper gearing you'll be fine with 35's given enough clearance around them and proper bumpstop height.
 
Your ball joints will be fine with 35's. You didn't mention what steering or brakes you're going to be doing but with a strong enough tie rod, better brakes, stock ball joints, and proper gearing you'll be fine with 35's given enough clearance around them and proper bumpstop height.

I'll be doing 15" black magic brakes and the Savvy/Currie Ultimate steering. Hopefully the steering is strong enough and I'm not hitting the KIA in front of me everytime they tap the brakes! :)

I'm going to stick with my 4.56's and if I don't like those, I'll think about jumping to 5.13's. I'm just having a hard time dumping more money into a dana 30. Maybe I'll think about a front 44.
 
I think the only thing that you might regret is supporting the 35s with bolt ons.

Hydra boost brakes would be nice from BM and hydro assist would be a welcome addition so that you aren’t wearing the stock box out. This of course is applicable for down south wheeling. Maybe not so much out west.

And I am a firm believer that 35’s and up should utilize a wheel base stretch to lower it. 35s on a short wheel base is a bit of an eye sore and unproportional . As far as height goes, its tall on 35’s with the short ~94 wheelbase. Stretch the rear a couple of inches and call it done.
 
...

And I am a firm believer that 35’s and up should utilize a wheel base stretch to lower it. 35s on a short wheel base is a bit of an eye sore and unproportional . As far as height goes, its tall on 35’s with the short ~94 wheelbase. Stretch the rear a couple of inches and call it done.

Stretch and lower? Is belly clearance and break over not a concern?
 
You should answer the following question for yourself: Do I really need 35's or do I just want them?

Too many jeep owners go to 35" tires because "everyone" has them or because they look good or because some self-styled Internet expert who spends far too much time in front of a computer monitor is adamant that they should rather than because they need 35" tires for the offroading they actually do. One size does not fit all and bigger isn't necessarily better.

Going to 35" tires requires more modifications and a greater financial commitment than 33's. Knowing why you are choosing one size over the other before you start down that road will help you make the best decision for your particular situation.
 
I'll be doing 15" black magic brakes and the Savvy/Currie Ultimate steering. Hopefully the steering is strong enough and I'm not hitting the KIA in front of me everytime they tap the brakes! :)

I'm going to stick with my 4.56's and if I don't like those, I'll think about jumping to 5.13's. I'm just having a hard time dumping more money into a dana 30. Maybe I'll think about a front 44.
A Dana 30 is MORE than up to 35's and a locker with nothing more than a set of replacement alloy axle shafts. I ran my Dana 30 with all that without problem on trails like Sledgehammer and Sunbonnet in Johnson Valley. It was only with its OE carbon steel shafts where I broke one of them. Wheeling with Blaine on a previous run on Sledgehammer of course. ;) Not to forget a tie rod/steering upgrade, brakes, and lower axle gearing
 
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