Replacement radiator

[Matt H]

Good morning all,
So I got home from a road trip in the jeep, popped the hood and found there was a pinhole leak squirting coolant. Must have just happened and didn’t overheat. Jeep is a 2002 Sahara and the current radiator is the OE style plastic. Pinhole is in the plastic tank at the very top. No cooling issues before this, everything working well. The jeep lives in Belize.

I guess I could try to just replace the tank but since we get into some pretty remote areas, not that there is one issue I’d rather go ahead and replace the whole radiator. Because I am down in Belize I will need to order one online and have it shipped here. I’ve read through several of the replacement radiator threads and looked online to see what’s available yet have the following questions:
1. I see aftermarket OE style radiators (haven’t seen a Mopar one though) for around $110 and all metal ones for $300-$600. I’m guessing it is worth it to pay more for a stronger one?
2. There is a particular brand that seems best? I see quite a lot of options. Just on Quadratec, I see Mishimoto, Cold Case, Northern High Performance, CSF, OMIX and Griffin…
3. While I’m at it, should I mess with the pump or thermostat, or don’t fix what’s not broken? The cooling system has been fine with temps holding at 208* regardless of the heat outside. The only time it creeps up a little is idling or stop & go traffic but even then just slightly over 210 and drops as soon as we get moving again.

Anyway, I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

Edit: Okay, just saw the similar thread from a couple days ago. Sounds like a CSF might be fine. Still open to any comments or suggestions…

 

[Chris]

1) OE Mopar is the best radiator you'll get for the money. Sadly, they no longer make them so if you get lucky enough to find one I'd count your blessings. Next to OE there is no consensus on who makes a good radiator for the TJ unless you want to spend $1000 plus.

2) Take your pick, honestly. I think part of the issue is that nobody has been running one long enough (at least nobody that has chimed in) to attest to how well any of these replacement brands hold up.

3) I'd do the entire cooling system at the same time unless you know when it was done last. Water pump, hoses, thermostat, flush, etc.

 

[macleanflood]

CSF, Koyorad...scroll down or search. This question is asked weekly if not daily.

-Mac

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I'd consider keeping the factory radiator and having it re-tanked.

1. I see aftermarket OE style radiators (haven’t seen a Mopar one though) for around $110 and all metal ones for $300-$600. I’m guessing it is worth it to pay more for a stronger one?

Definitely not with the aluminum tank ones. Buy once - cry repeatedly

2. There is a particular brand that seems best? I see quite a lot of options. Just on Quadratec, I see Mishimoto, Cold Case, Northern High Performance, CSF, OMIX and Griffin…

I would say packaging needs to be a priority in your situation. My Koyorad from rockauto came in the original Koyorad box with good protection. That radiator has been working fine for people in hot and humid climates. But I'd also consider what's available locally to reduce shipping.

The CSF packaging and QA has been a problem on the brass radiator. Fixable, but some have had the fill neck crushed in shipping. Not sure about the plastic tank/aluminum core style packaging from CSF, but this seems to be on the higher tube count, which is a good thing.

3. While I’m at it, should I mess with the pump or thermostat, or don’t fix what’s not broken? The cooling system has been fine with temps holding at 208* regardless of the heat outside. The only time it creeps up a little is idling or stop & go traffic but even then just slightly over 210 and drops as soon as we get moving again.

Anyway, I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

It's not a bad idea to do a full refresh at once.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

2) Take your pick, honestly. I think part of the issue is that nobody has been running one long enough (at least nobody that has chimed in) to attest to how well any of these replacement brands hold up.

Made worse by constant consolidation/PE turnover, whatever. Compounded by migration of manufacture to other countries like China or India. The auto parts world is a moving target.

 

[Chris]

Made worse by constant consolidation/PE turnover, whatever. Compounded by migration of manufacture to other countries like China or India. The auto parts world is a moving target.

Indeed! Might just be worth it to spend $1000 on that American made radiator if you plan on keeping the vehicle a long time. The automotive part world (like everything else) is falling apart at the seams.

 

[Intimnasc]

I did the Mishimoto all aluminum with welded tanks and 2 core. I think AFE has one similar with a 3 core design for about 100 bucks more. I looked for the OEM and the only ones available would cost a bit to get shipped or just didn't want to sell them. My Mishimoto came in a very good box and was well sealed in shrink material to the cardboard. Came with all stainless bolts to remount everything and rivet nuts already installed for mounting things. Like Gorilla said mine has only been in 3 months or so in Texas and is performing very well. Lets see what happens in the next few years.

 

[TJ4Jim]

I did the Mishimoto all aluminum with welded tanks and 2 core. I think AFE has one similar with a 3 core design for about 100 bucks more. I looked for the OEM and the only ones available would cost a bit to get shipped or just didn't want to sell them. My Mishimoto came in a very good box and was well sealed in shrink material to the cardboard. Came with all stainless bolts to remount everything and rivet nuts already installed for mounting things. Like Gorilla said mine has only been in 3 months or so in Texas and is performing very well. Lets see what happens in the next few years.

Guess I dodged the Mishimoto issues being leak free since installing it in March of 2015. It's been solid...

 

[GoldenGorilla]

When they're good, they'll last the lifetime of the vehicle.
I think the issue with those aluminum tank models is
1) the high row count sometimes results in too much flow resistance and overheating at highway speeds. Two-row seems better than 3-row
2) the way they are welded with the tank welds too close to the brazing resulting, I'm guessing, the core tube braze being compromised by the heat of the weld along the outer edges. When these fail, it seems to consistently be a failure on the edges of the core.

The problem for someone in Belize is that the shipping, import fees and stamp duty will probably kill you on the second one.

 

[Matt H]

1) OE Mopar is the best radiator you'll get for the money. Sadly, they no longer make them so if you get lucky enough to find one I'd count your blessings. Next to OE there is no consensus on who makes a good radiator for the TJ unless you want to spend $1000 plus.

2) Take your pick, honestly. I think part of the issue is that nobody has been running one long enough (at least nobody that has chimed in) to attest to how well any of these replacement brands hold up.

3) I'd do the entire cooling system at the same time unless you know when it was done last. Water pump, hoses, thermostat, flush, etc.

Thanks Chris. Yes, I am looking and would love to find an OE Mopar one but so far no luck… Fair enough on the rest and good copy on the whole system.

 

[Matt H]

I'd consider keeping the factory radiator and having it re-tanked.

Definitely not with the aluminum tank ones. Buy once - cry repeatedly

I would say packaging needs to be a priority in your situation. My Koyorad from rockauto came in the original Koyorad box with good protection. That radiator has been working fine for people in hot and humid climates. But I'd also consider what's available locally to reduce shipping.

The CSF packaging and QA has been a problem on the brass radiator. Fixable, but some have had the fill neck crushed in shipping. Not sure about the plastic tank/aluminum core style packaging from CSF, but this seems to be on the higher tube count, which is a good thing.

It's not a bad idea to do a full refresh at once.

Thanks. You are right on the packaging but hard for me to know so I appreciate the feedback on the Koyorad vs CSF packing.

The only radiator available in Belize for a TJ is a Chinese “Reach” one that I haven’t seen any feedback on so I’m a little reluctant with that option, though it would simplify shipping, customs duty etc.

 

[Matt H]

I did the Mishimoto all aluminum with welded tanks and 2 core. I think AFE has one similar with a 3 core design for about 100 bucks more. I looked for the OEM and the only ones available would cost a bit to get shipped or just didn't want to sell them. My Mishimoto came in a very good box and was well sealed in shrink material to the cardboard. Came with all stainless bolts to remount everything and rivet nuts already installed for mounting things. Like Gorilla said mine has only been in 3 months or so in Texas and is performing very well. Lets see what happens in the next few years.

Thanks, good feedback that the Mishimoto was well packed. Based on your comments it is on the short list so far.

 

[Matt H]

Guess I dodged the Mishimoto issues since being leak free since installing it in March of 2015. It's been solid...

Thanks, running it over ten years is a pretty good testimonial!

 

[Matt H]

“I'd consider keeping the factory radiator and having it re-tanked.” - It was replaced by the previous owner. Pretty sure it is not factory / OE Mopar.

“It's not a bad idea to do a full refresh at once.” - Yes, that is now the plan.

 

[jonny jeep]

I've been running a Nissens rad in my TJ since early 2011, so 15+ years and 120k+ miles in it. Temps have ranged from -14C (7F) to +39C (102F) over the years with no cooling issues.

I'm not sure where mine was built back then, but it seems they are made in China now. I saw a post recently where someone had fitted one, the second they received (from Rockauto IIIRC), as the first was damaged and had loose screws holding the side brackets to the rad.

Someone else said they'd fitted one last year to replace a denso that was running hotter than they liked, and so far do good.

Edit: here's the thread...

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nissens-radiator-installed.91301/

 

[D M]

I know theyre not well liked here but i couldnt find a mopar for mine when it blew at the time. I pulled the trigger on a mishimoto. Havent had any trouble with it for the 6~ or so years ive had it. I think it runs a little too cool personally, even with the 205 thermostat ive never been able to get it above 200 unless bogging up a steep hill. Even when i had an electric fan and it shit the bed, i was able to maintain 190* on the freeway at 55mph mind you, standstill traffic was another story... almost roasted my block!

 

[MikeE024]

I know theyre not well liked here but i couldnt find a mopar for mine when it blew at the time. I pulled the trigger on a mishimoto. Havent had any trouble with it for the 6~ or so years ive had it. I think it runs a little too cool personally, even with the 205 thermostat ive never been able to get it above 200 unless bogging up a steep hill. Even when i had an electric fan and it shit the bed, i was able to maintain 190* on the freeway at 55mph mind you, standstill traffic was another story... almost roasted my block!

This is how you know your thermostat isn't closing like it should be.

 

[D M]

This is how you know your thermostat isn't closing like it should be.

Last two thermostats did the same thing. ive given up at this point

 

[MikeE024]

Last two thermostats did the same thing. ive given up at this point

This potentially points to the ECT sensor as well. Mine acted up two years ago by showing very low temps, and the temps showed normal again after swapping in a Mopar replacement.

We know the thermostat maintains the floor no matter how good our cooling system otherwise performs.

I'd hate to find out your 205* thermostat has you running way hotter than you think you are. If your sensor is faulty, a good sensor will tell you in short order that you want a 195* Robert Shaw or Mopar thermostat installed. Just something to think about.

 

[JKP]

Last two thermostats did the same thing. ive given up at this point

Flowkooler Robertshaw thermostat.

Never use Motorad.