RIPP Performance Coil in '06 Jeep Rubicon

Ah, thank you.
I’ll keep you posted. Doing this along w catalytic converters (clogged, waiting on parts, aFe was 8 week lead, so Flow Master on the way), so I’m hoping for a whole new level of performance with both done.
Manifold is on my list, too. Looking forward to hearing how you like Flow Master.
 
Save what money? Kit comes with a RIPP Superchargers coil ($?), not a Mopar coil ($60) You would then need to cut and paint a bracket (2 hrs + dry time, $30), make a harness (1 hr, $40), cut and fab six plug wires (3 hrs, $70). You may save a $20. I saved my weekend.
I can't speak to the Ripp kit. I was referring to the coil itself. Buying the Viper coil is more expensive than the Caravan coil, and they are the same thing minus the numbering. If I were going to do this mod I would buy a bone yard coil anyways. I have yet to see a bad one, and I have messed with plenty. Personally I don't understand the mod as the factory ignition is more than capable for a stock engine, and adding plug wires is kind of a downgrade over having coils mounted directly on the plugs.
 
I can't speak to the Ripp kit. I was referring to the coil itself. Buying the Viper coil is more expensive than the Caravan coil, and they are the same thing minus the numbering. If I were going to do this mod I would buy a bone yard coil anyways. I have yet to see a bad one, and I have messed with plenty. Personally I don't understand the mod as the factory ignition is more than capable for a stock engine, and adding plug wires is kind of a downgrade over having coils mounted directly on the plugs.

I can understand that. Before I found a kit that did what I was trying to do, I looked at a few coils and you are correct. The Viper coil was about $40 more.

I did this because my engine is modified. I was having multiple issues related to ignition and the modification. This fixed them all (*fingers crossed).

If you wanted off the rail and on the cheap (anyone picturing an ex?), I think you could get everything off an older Cherokee. Anyone know for sure?
 
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One thing to keep in mind when comparing a properly functioning ignition coil or coil rail to an aftermarket replacement is that you'll never see an improvement from the aftermarket version. You will only see an improvement with an aftermarket replacement over a modern factory coil/ignition rail when there's a problem with the factory coil. The TJ's factory ignition coil/ignition rail puts out WAY more voltage than is required to reliably ignite the air/fuel mixture. More voltage than that is a waste and won't result in better combustion. It's only when the OE coil/rail is marginal/defective when the after market will help.

The above wasn't always the case but it is now. Many years ago I had a 57 Chevy with the 283 V8 and its factory coil & points style ignition system doing as good as it could for its design. I replaced that ignition system with a solid state (transistorized) capacitive discharge ignition system and the results were immediately noticeable the first time starting it. I wouldn't say dramatic but it was definitely noticeable. Today's ignition system are much better though, they have to be to enable the engine to pass all the smog tests most states require. Replacing modern ignition coils just aren't going to produce significant improvements like used to be pretty easily achievable.
 
One thing to keep in mind when comparing a properly functioning ignition coil or coil rail to an aftermarket replacement is that you'll never see an improvement from the aftermarket version. You will only see an improvement with an aftermarket replacement over a modern factory coil/ignition rail when there's a problem with the factory coil. The TJ's factory ignition coil/ignition rail puts out WAY more voltage than is required to reliably ignite the air/fuel mixture. More voltage than that is a waste and won't result in better combustion. It's only when the OE coil/rail is marginal/defective when the after market will help.

The above wasn't always the case but it is now. Many years ago I had a 57 Chevy with the 283 V8 and its factory coil & points style ignition system doing as good as it could for its design. I replaced that ignition system with a solid state (transistorized) capacitive discharge ignition system and the results were immediately noticeable the first time starting it. I wouldn't say dramatic but it was definitely noticeable. Today's ignition system are much better though, they have to be to enable the engine to pass all the smog tests most states require. Replacing modern ignition coils just aren't going to produce significant improvements like used to be pretty easily achievable.

I still have the rail in question. When I get time later, I could test it. All I can tell you is that I am very pleased with the outcome.
 
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I’ve run the K-suspension/RIPP coil kit for about 7 months now, and am happy with it. Rafi’s a great guy and was very helpful with a minor issue I had.

I had a torn boot on the OEM coil rail, didn’t like messing with it, so I chose the RIPP over an OEM.

And I’m glad I did so far. 😸
 
One thing to keep in mind when comparing a properly functioning ignition coil or coil rail to an aftermarket replacement is that you'll never see an improvement from the aftermarket version. You will only see an improvement with an aftermarket replacement over a modern factory coil/ignition rail when there's a problem with the factory coil. The TJ's factory ignition coil/ignition rail puts out WAY more voltage than is required to reliably ignite the air/fuel mixture. More voltage than that is a waste and won't result in better combustion. It's only when the OE coil/rail is marginal/defective when the after market will help.

True for any n/a Jeep. Start adding forced induction and the fuel to match it, benefits can be had. OP looks like he has a turbo setup. Not saying he needs it or it helped because anything other than worn out factory system. Just saying this isn't 100% universally true in every situation.
 
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I don't know if my bull shit meter is too sensitive after many years of bull shit being showed down my brain by the marketing, fake claims on the websites, paid shills on the forums, and paid articles by "reputable" magazines to promote others garbage... but what i am reading here is no different than me saying that my I6 was sluggish.
As a result, i pulled the engine out and send it to the reputable local ABC company to have it rebuild. ABC went all out on it, refreshed all the guts and and replaced old OEM induction and combustion system with a tuned components from X, Y and Z.

ABC is the shit, and X, Y, Z comportment worth every penny because my Jeep feels very responsive and fuel efficient now. Here is the link everyone.

In reality, my cats were clogged and 02s have not been changed in 120k miles.
 
I just installed a RIPP performance coil from K Suspension @ http://www.ksuspensionfab.com . My experience at K Suspension was top notch. Seriously could not recommend enough. One of those husband-wife business built on customer service.

I was having random, increasing cylinder misfires and poor acceleration. At temperature, coming to a stop, it would idle so rough that I would occasionally get a blinking engine light, requiring that I restart the engine. Also, RPMS over 3800 were rough, 4500 impossible.

First thing I noticeable was the increased power and smooth acceleration though shifts even at higher RPMs. Codes gone, said with fingers crossed. Possible MPG improvement, but I need a few tanks to say for sure. I did have to modify it to fit around the turbo bracket.

Here's

I don't know if my bull shit meter is too sensitive after many years of bull shit being showed down my brain by the marketing, fake claims on the websites, paid shills on the forums, and paid articles by "reputable" magazines to promote others garbage... but what i am reading here is no different than me saying that my I6 was sluggish.
As a result, i pulled the engine out and send it to the reputable local ABC company to have it rebuild. ABC went all out on it, refreshed all the guts and and replaced old OEM induction and combustion system with a tuned components from X, Y and Z.

ABC is the shit, and X, Y, Z comportment worth every penny because my Jeep feels very responsive and fuel efficient now. Here is the link everyone.

In reality, my cats were clogged and 02s have not been changed in 120k miles.

Well, I'm a real person. I love working on the Jeep on the weekend in the garage with the tunes on. In fact, I was just installing a 5 channel. Found an amazing place to install it. Yeah, don't think I'll post that. I shared my experience and how I was pleased with the outcome and the company.

How I don't relax, is feeling like I have to justify my experience. If you think I'm a shill, I'll just avoid posting. Strange forum.
 
justify my experience.
Experience of replacing a worn out component with a new one?
No need, pretty straight forward.

Claiming some mystical gains?
I believe that is where saying "put your money where your mouth at" in English language comes in, but feel free to correct my misunderstanding.
 
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Well, I'm a real person. I love working on the Jeep on the weekend in the garage with the tunes on. In fact, I was just installing a 5 channel. Found an amazing place to install it. Yeah, don't think I'll post that. I shared my experience and how I was pleased with the outcome and the company.

How I don't relax, is feeling like I have to justify my experience. If you think I'm a shill, I'll just avoid posting. Strange forum.
Keep posting man. I'm interested.
 
Well, I'm a real person. I love working on the Jeep on the weekend in the garage with the tunes on. In fact, I was just installing a 5 channel. Found an amazing place to install it. Yeah, don't think I'll post that. I shared my experience and how I was pleased with the outcome and the company.

How I don't relax, is feeling like I have to justify my experience. If you think I'm a shill, I'll just avoid posting. Strange forum.
I don’t think you’re off base relating your experiences with any equipment. I was interested in what you had to say.

I have the RIPP coil, and I didn’t get it cuz I thought it’d make my Jeep a race car, or claim it did.

And I didn’t think you did either.

Keep posting, your rig looks like you’ve done some killer stuff to it, and I, for one, would like to see more of it.
 
Well, I'm a real person. I love working on the Jeep on the weekend in the garage with the tunes on. In fact, I was just installing a 5 channel. Found an amazing place to install it. Yeah, don't think I'll post that. I shared my experience and how I was pleased with the outcome and the company.

How I don't relax, is feeling like I have to justify my experience. If you think I'm a shill, I'll just avoid posting. Strange forum.

You enjoy working on your TJ in the garage as most of us do....
You are spending your hard earned money and are pleased with the outcome of your modifications; members enjoy reading what other members have done to their Jeeps.
Everyone have opinions; so don't let one persons opinion spoil your enjoyment.... (y)
 
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I have the stock kit,the owner of k told me you don’t need the ripp,unless engine is modified-jeff
Great! Glad they offer more options now. I probably would have still wasted the money, but this is more of a hobby for me than a keep-it-moving thing.
 
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Edit:

If I need a new coil rail for a stock 4.0L, would you folks suggest I get a Mopar ($200), Delphi ($80), or go with this kit ($129)?

Note: I'm running new XP985 plugs.
 
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For a stock 4.0L, is it worth going with their RIPP coil or the "normal" option?

I just learned about the kit and am looking at the options on their website.
Rather than just say "no benefits," let me share some of my non-guru thoughts.
The rail sits in a hot location on the engine. Electric components and heat are not a good mix. If this design was so genius, why don't they still use it? Yes, I understand engine design, but you likely get my point. Sometimes bad designs go away and don't come back. With the relocation bracket, it moves it away from the block. This may provide longer life and avoid catastrophic failures on the trail.
Have you ever had to isolate one cylinder with the rail design? You really can't. Not without taking it off first. That alone is a benefit. Period.
One other thing, in my case, that may be the reason (aside from the rail becoming coincidentally damaged right after adding a turbo) for my dramatic benefits (by the way remain outstanding today) is that a hotter spark may compensate for "turbo spark blow-out." If someone didn't read that this is a Banks turbo with intercooler, they might not consider that. However, when you add compressed/ cold air to a system, you likely will need to dial in a few other systems. Next is going to be big exhaust air. Get that little wheel spinning quicker.
This is a hobby for me. I could have gone crate 1000hp on a CJ (well, at least the VIN) over 60s. But, that's not MY project. My project is trying to bring the most out, while keeping the most I can in.
Although, could you imagine a turbo diesel 4cyc option for the TJ! Wanted to do that bad. But, I live in California and just thinking about doing that resulted in a fine from the thought police.
I really hope to share my completed Rubi in December (February more likely). Perhaps enough of you will see what I was going for to get me that sweet, sweet Ride O' the Month title. 😉
 
Rather than just say "no benefits," let me share some of my non-guru thoughts.
The rail sits in a hot location on the engine. Electric components and heat are not a good mix. If this design was so genius, why don't they still use it? Yes, I understand engine design, but you likely get my point. Sometimes bad designs go away and don't come back. With the relocation bracket, it moves it away from the block. This may provide longer life and avoid catastrophic failures on the trail.
Have you ever had to isolate one cylinder with the rail design? You really can't. Not without taking it off first. That alone is a benefit. Period.
One other thing, in my case, that may be the reason (aside from the rail becoming coincidentally damaged right after adding a turbo) for my dramatic benefits (by the way remain outstanding today) is that a hotter spark may compensate for "turbo spark blow-out." If someone didn't read that this is a Banks turbo with intercooler, they might not consider that. However, when you add compressed/ cold air to a system, you likely will need to dial in a few other systems. Next is going to be big exhaust air. Get that little wheel spinning quicker.
This is a hobby for me. I could have gone crate 1000hp on a CJ (well, at least the VIN) over 60s. But, that's not MY project. My project is trying to bring the most out, while keeping the most I can in.
Although, could you imagine a turbo diesel 4cyc option for the TJ! Wanted to do that bad. But, I live in California and just thinking about doing that resulted in a fine from the thought police.
I really hope to share my completed Rubi in December (February more likely). Perhaps enough of you will see what I was going for to get me that sweet, sweet Ride O' the Month title. 😉
My daily is a 2017 GMC Canyon, 2.8 Duramax turbo diesel. Absolutely love this engine. Would love to try a TJ swap!
 
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