Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

There does appear to be a double bend in this photo and in the one you posted from underneath.
View attachment 397734

The torque boxes are not level on a TJ, so you need a spacer on the higher one to bridge the gap. There appears to be something in that area in this photo, but it’s unclear what it is.
View attachment 397735
Their description says they tie into the body mounts, which is a bad idea. Let the body mounts do what they do, and don’t put another function on them.
View attachment 397736
It’s unclear if they are ww2ww due to the other mods like HiLine on that test fit rig. I doubt it. There are not enough mounting points into the torque boxes, so aim for altering the bottom to stay away from the body mounts and tie into the torque boxes. No mention of backing plates. You can probably fix everything but the ww2ww, but is it worth it?

That looks like a spacer welded with 2 holes in it. I recall it is not much height difference between the rocker boxes. I think was like 3/16”. I modified my PS guards to get them off the body mounts and onto the rocker boxes.
 
That looks like a spacer welded with 2 holes in it. I recall it is not much height difference between the rocker boxes. I think was like 3/16”. I modified my PS guards to get them off the body mounts and onto the rocker boxes.

I've got a set of sliders that I think are Big Daddy. They have a spacer that is definitely a full 1/2" steel with two slots for longer bolts to go into the torque boxes. I don't know if there is a difference between the 97-02 and 03-06 on the torque box relationship. I doubt it based on only one set of Savvy sliders being sold for TJ's from 97-06.
 
That looks like a spacer welded with 2 holes in it. I recall it is not much height difference between the rocker boxes. I think was like 3/16”. I modified my PS guards to get them off the body mounts and onto the rocker boxes.

I measured the GR ones and they're 1/2" spacers which is what will go on the custom set a few of us are building.
 
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It’s unclear if they are ww2ww due to the other mods like HiLine on that test fit rig. I doubt it. There are not enough mounting points into the torque boxes, so aim for altering the bottom to stay away from the body mounts and tie into the torque boxes. No mention of backing plates. You can probably fix everything but the ww2ww, but is it worth it?
When i emailed them they said its notched around the body mounts so i'm not sure what the description is getting at. I imagine with a few holes drilled into the bottom and a couple extra nutserts in the torque box that this could be a strong way to mount it, and a backing plate is easy i'll just have to get some aluminum bar stock. Idk if its worth it but i can't afford savvy or genright so it seems like it might be a viable option.
 
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When i emailed them they said its notched around the body mounts so i'm not sure what the description is getting at. I imagine with a few holes drilled into the bottom and a couple extra nutserts in the torque box that this could be a strong way to mount it, and a backing plate is easy i'll just have to get some aluminum bar stock. Idk if its worth it but i can't afford savvy or genright so it seems like it might be a viable option.

I think we have an accurate assessment. Proceed as you will. Report back what you find! 😊
 
I measured the GR ones and they're 1/2" spacers which is what will go on the custom set a few of us are building.

You are correct, when I modified my PS sliders I used a 3/16” plate on one end. I sectioned a piece of tubing for the other end. This kept the bolts in the body at the same location and got the sliders tight against the torque boxes.
6B6497D6-3EB8-4C8F-AAE2-B4FF245D3CFF.jpeg
 
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When i emailed them they said its notched around the body mounts so i'm not sure what the description is getting at. I imagine with a few holes drilled into the bottom and a couple extra nutserts in the torque box that this could be a strong way to mount it, and a backing plate is easy i'll just have to get some aluminum bar stock. Idk if its worth it but i can't afford savvy or genright so it seems like it might be a viable option.

I was able to modify my poison spyder slider. I had the flat bar and tubing I used for the spacers up to the torque boxes. I had to buy the aluminum for the backing plates. I went to the cut off rack at the local metal shop found a piece approx 1/2” x 3” . When I went to buy it instead of throwing the guy $20-$30 due to price increases it was around $80.00. The first side took about 8 hours to finish, the next side took about half that amount of time. I couldn’t make any money doing it but I’m happy with the results. I didn’t have to re powder coat them either.
 
When i emailed them they said its notched around the body mounts so i'm not sure what the description is getting at. I imagine with a few holes drilled into the bottom and a couple extra nutserts in the torque box that this could be a strong way to mount it, and a backing plate is easy i'll just have to get some aluminum bar stock. Idk if its worth it but i can't afford savvy or genright so it seems like it might be a viable option.

Not sure what everyone is looking at but the picture of the red one shows 2 fasteners on the underside into the torque box at the FRONT, the renderings show 2 into the torque box through the raised U section which is used to compensate for the offset in the torque box. Won't take much to lay out and drill more holes between those pairs of holes. FYI, neither of the groups of fastener between those need to be countersunk, simple 3/8" hole for a tiny bit of slop to handle the nutserts that don't set perfectly and some normal 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" grade 8 bolts and you should be good to go.

If you need some nutserts, I have a few thousand of the correct size.
 
Not sure what everyone is looking at but the picture of the red one shows 2 fasteners on the underside into the torque box at the FRONT, the renderings show 2 into the torque box through the raised U section which is used to compensate for the offset in the torque box. Won't take much to lay out and drill more holes between those pairs of holes. FYI, neither of the groups of fastener between those need to be countersunk, simple 3/8" hole for a tiny bit of slop to handle the nutserts that don't set perfectly and some normal 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" grade 8 bolts and you should be good to go.

If you need some nutserts, I have a few thousand of the correct size.
Thanks! If you'd be willing to send some that would be awesome. Is it worth it to get a nutsert tool or is the bolt and washers technique viable?