Running 35s

DropTopDon

DropTopDon

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Location
VA
I know this question is beat up and plastered around the internet, but i am just posting this thread to get some info specific to my build. I have a 42rle automatic transmission and 3.73 gearing. I have a dana 44 in the rear with G2 chromoly axles and a dana 35 in the front. Currently am running 33’s and planning on purchasing new 33’s, but fiddling with the idea of 35’s. i have an OME 2.5 inch suspension lift and 1.25 inch body lift, so i don’t think 35’s would rub. I do have the ZJ tie rod conversion and other upgrades steering components so to my knowledge I think the steering wouldn’t be an issue. I am also aware better brakes would be a good idea (or just mrblaine black magic brake pads). What other things should i consider? Also with regearing about how much can i expect to pay for thay since i wouldn’t be able to regear myself. Any help is appreciated.
 
Are you sure you have a Dana 35 in the front ? You probably meant Dana 30.
Not sure what the going price to regear in Virginia, but here in San Diego the going price is about $1100-1300 per axle.
As for what gear ratio to install; the gearing for 33" tires and the gearing for 35" tires would be somewhat different. You will need to decide whether you want gearing for 33's or 35's. You don't want to duplicate spending money.
Probably 4.88s or 5.13's would be appropriate depending upon the tire size.
 
CharlesHS said:
Are you sure you have a Dana 35 in the front ? You probably meant Dana 30.
Not sure what the going price to regear in Virginia, but here in San Diego the going price is about $1100-1300 per axle.
As for what gear ratio to install; the gearing for 33" tires and the gearing for 35" tires would be somewhat different. You will need to decide whether you want gearing for 33's or 35's. You don't want to duplicate spending money.
Probably 4.88s or 5.13's would be appropriate depending upon the tire size.
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yes i meant Dana 30, thank you
 
I run 35’s on 4” of lift but often toy with the idea of switching to a 33 just to see how different it would feel/look. I know that I’m losing up-travel running 35’s with this amount of lift, but I’m ok with that and for my needs it works just fine. Either way you need to be looking into a re-gear for that 42rle
 
I ran 33's with a 4" lift, then 35's with a 4" lift and finally 35's with a 4" lift plus 1.25" body lift. My only mistake was 35's on a 4" lift alone.
 
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Seems like the going rate is 5.13 for the Axles you have and a 35”. I think I paid around 1300-1400$ Here in NC. You can always bump stop with with the lift you have.
 
I recently went the other direction; 35s to metric 33s. I also swapped my Metalcloaks back to factory fenders. For grins, I put the 35 back on with my 2" SL and 1.25" BL just to see what it looked like. I can't say I'd recommend it.
1601127488985.png
 
You have to bump stop it front and rear to keep those tires from rubbing. Driving around town you’ll rub the sway bar. On modest trails you’ll be into the rear fender liner pretty easy without bump stop changes. The tire will fit around town with that lift. The bump stop changes will be the same regardless of lift. You’ll find yourself bottoming out more often on so small a lift.
As you have read, there is big affect on performance and braking with the taller heavier tire.
 
Most people don't think 5.38 gears are deep enough for 35s and that 42RLE trans. I just cut the OD off every time I got into my Jeep when I had that auto.
 
ranger101 said:
I run 35’s on 4” of lift but often toy with the idea of switching to a 33 just to see how different it would feel/look.
Click to expand...
I went back to 33s once and they just look tiny. I put 33s on my XJ and they looked HUGE....until I parked it next to my TJ with 35s.
XJ 6 2 2020.jpg
 
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I’m still running 4:11 on 35s with the 3 speed 32RH. It is a bit of dog in 3rd gear, but it keeps up with in town traffic okay and is still able to run 70 on highways at just under 3000 rpm. As speed climbs over 65 the mpg nose dives. I’d like to gear lower but between the expense and even higher highway rpm I’m hesitant. All three speeds are usable in low range. 1st low is a good crawl and has very good engine braking. 2nd low is a good getting around gear on rough stuff but is little lacking for engine braking.
Rather than regear, one day I’ll more likely go back to 33s and lose the body lift.
 
TeeJohn said:
I’m still running 4:11 on 35s with the 3 speed 32RH. It is a bit of dog in 3rd gear, but it keeps up with in town traffic okay and is still able to run 70 on highways at just under 3000 rpm. As speed climbs over 65 the mpg nose dives. I’d like to gear lower but between the expense and even higher highway rpm I’m hesitant. All three speeds are usable in low range. 1st low is a good crawl and has very good engine braking. 2nd low is a good getting around gear on rough stuff but is little lacking for engine braking.
Rather than regear, one day I’ll more likely go back to 33s and lose the body lift.
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4.56 is the proper gearing for 35s and your 3 speed trans. I wouldn't waste the money for that difference either.
 
Lots of good information here
Re-gearing based on transmission and tire size is covered in this thread. And all the needed goodies to run 35's properly are covered in this thread.

You'll want 5.13 gears for 35's and a lot more lift. 4 inches of lift (3 inch suspension + 1 inch body) is recommended for 33's; you'll want 4" of suspension lift for 35's or you'll need to put on a lot of bumpstop extension.

You already are aware about the steering/braking upgrades that are needed so thats good.
If you are going to do 4 inches of suspension lift, or even 3 inches to stay with 33's, you will need an SYE and DC driveshaft if you dont have it already.
 
Its doable but there are other options that give you superior travel. Lots of work required...

2.5" ome HD kit / shocks, JKS 1.25 BL. 1 5/8" front bump, 2" rear bump. Front & rear adjustable control arms are needed to push the axle forward to clear the front inner fender and in the rear to center the 35 in the wheelwell.

MCE fenders to allow the 35 to travel above the stock fender line. Also have 1.5" spacers for the stock moab wheels.

20200705_091926.jpg
 
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