Saskatchewanian Apex

Also got around to fixing my door latch (again) today.
Was gonna change my spark plugs but figured I should get a gap gauge and check the gaps on the new ones before putting them in.
 
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Also… it’s looking like my rear main started leaking. Assuming it’s because I switched to a 5w30 synthetic even though it was a high-mileage version.
(Pennzoil Platinum HM 5w30)
With as cold of winters as we have I really wouldn’t wanna put a conventional in so I’m hoping when I switch back to Pennzoil HM 10w30 in summer it’ll quit, till then I’m just hoping I won’t have to add too much.
Noticed the drips I think almost 3 weeks ago and haven’t had to add yet.

Looking like I also need to replace my oil sending unit.

On the positive side… since I read about reverse not being synchronized in my NV3550 and coming across the trick of putting it into a forward gear right before reverse… ZERO grinding or popping out.
 
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Put in SUP-LIGHT truck-lite knockoff headlights yesterday, really dig the look. Haven’t really used em but are definitely bright, still have to get them adjusted one day.

Also got the 26 tooth speedo gear in today.
 
26 tooth speedo gear ended up being incorrect.
So my speedo reads 5% slow with the stock 29 tooth and 5% fast with the 26.
-29: 80kmh speedo = 84kmh actual
-26: 80kmh speedo = 76kmh actual
Ordered a 27 tooth and that should put me nearly bang on.

Also replaced my oil sending unit with a Standard Motor Products (PS317).
Previously the gauge would ALWAYS be showing around 2bar, cold or hot, idle or driving. After finding out that I should have the “actual” gauge I decided to replace the sender and now I actually get to see it fluctuate!
Reads about 3.5bar/50psi cold
3 bar/43psi warm

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Did a quick and dirty headlight adjustment, gonna do a proper one once it’s a little warmer out.
Took it out for a little drive after dark and MAN what a difference. No complaints about the beam pattern though I’m no lighting snob.
Will post some pics yet.

Also did a speedo reading confirmation with the 27 tooth gear, darn close, MAYBE reading 2km over at 80kmh.
 
Finally got around to changing out my tcase (NP231) fluid.
Used Mobil 1 ATF+4.
Old stuff actually looked pretty good still but I like knowing what fluids are in it anyways. I think I’ve changed every fluid in that thing now.
 
Found out last week that my block heater wasn’t working, so I was gonna go ahead and replace the plug as I assumed it had just gone bad but decided the look along the cord and sure-enough the wire was nearly torn through at the block end.
Picked up a new cord today and put it in, just in time for another cold spell.
Also put an LED in the dome light and one of the courtesy lights as I found out the 2pk of 921’s I got for the dome light would also fit the 906’s for the courtesy lights.
Decided to try cheap MotoMaster OEPLUS LED’s, we’ll see if they last but so far really nice for $11 for 2.
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Also picked up MotoMaster 1156 LED’s for the reverse lights, gonna pop em in and line the housing with aluminum foil tape on the next warm(er) day. Hoping they’ll at least be bright enough to satisfy me. The incandescents are so dim they’d might as well not be there.
If the bulbs still don’t make the reverse lights functional I guess I’ll be looking at proper LED taillights at some point.
 
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Nice vehicle and nice write-ups. I have an '04 (silver) Sport. Couldn't get 32" replacement 'Mud Terrains' so am running the same 33" K02's as yours.
Have the stock 30/35 diff's with 3.73 gearing, The 35 is a OEM Trac-Loc unit.
Yours appears to have the wider Rubicon wheel flares ?? Do you run wheel spacers also ?
Where in BC did your TJ come from? I live on Vancouver Island and was out in the bush to-day. No snow! :cool:
 
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Hey James9100! Nice Apex! 😸

I’ve got a 2002 silver Apex too. When I bought mine, someone replaced the oxblood seats, but other than that, the interior was pretty unmolested. I heard they are pretty comfy.

Looks like your build is moving forward nicely. Our builds are close, I’m 3” lift and metric 33’s. And got my regear and axles done 2 years ago and really enjoy the change.

I’ll have to keep an eye on your build and see how it ends up.

You can check out my build page to see how mine ended up.

Good luck with your project, and have fun wheeling the Great White North! 😸
 
Nice vehicle and nice write-ups. I have an '04 (silver) Sport. Couldn't get 32" replacement 'Mud Terrains' so am running the same 33" K02's as yours.
Have the stock 30/35 diff's with 3.73 gearing, The 35 is a OEM Trac-Loc unit.
Yours appears to have the wider Rubicon wheel flares ?? Do you run wheel spacers also ?
Where in BC did your TJ come from? I live on Vancouver Island and was out in the bush to-day. No snow! :cool:

Thanks! That’s a clean rig you’ve got yourself too, and you’ve got the wheels I want haha, those ravines look real good.
Ya you’re lucky you’ve AT LEAST got 3.73’s. I’m still on 3.07’s, terrible for 33s and a 5spd. Plan is to drop in a 4.10 Dana 30/35 from a 4cyl TJ, most guys recommend 4.56 but I think I’d be happy with 4.10 and dropping in used axles is gonna be cheaper than regearing. I would like to throw a Detroit TrueTrac LSD in the rear when that happens though.
I do have Rubi flares, PO put em on, only realized they were off a Rubi last summer. No wheel spacers though, 15x8 wheels with 4.5” backspacing.
Believe I picked it up in Chilliwack if I remember correctly.
 
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You probably went with 4.56s?

I’ve got a Rubi Dana 44 with factory lockers and alloys in the rear and a high pinion Dana 30 in the front with a ARB locker and Yukon alloys with big u-joints. And I’m running 4:10’s because I’ve got an automatic. And I’m very happy with the gearing.

Went with Black Magic brakes in the front, and I can’t recommend them enough!!!

And those wheels are AEV Bridgers that I understand are pretty rare. I guess I’m pretty lucky to have a set of five!

I’m totally jealous of your Rubi flares! Wish I could come up with a set of those!

If you’re lucky enough to find a set of Rubi axles, that would make an easy swap for sure, but they’re kinda hard to come by. But keep looking, I found one!

I kinda want to get a Rubi transfer case, but those things are very hard to find. I know a guy who’s sitting on one, and this just reminds me to call him and pester him some more! 😹
 
And I’d recommend looking at some of @Jerry Bransford’s posts on gearing for the manual transmission. 4:10’s might not be enough to get your RPM’s back close to factory with those 33’s. It makes a difference, not just for road speed vs RPM’s, but for gas mileage too! 😸

Happy wheeling!
 
I’ve got a Rubi Dana 44 with factory lockers and alloys in the rear and a high pinion Dana 30 in the front with a ARB locker and Yukon alloys with big u-joints. And I’m running 4:10’s because I’ve got an automatic. And I’m very happy with the gearing.

Went with Black Magic brakes in the front, and I can’t recommend them enough!!!
That’s a nice setup, I’d totally go with BMB but I think they’d just be too costly to get up here. Just a good set of pads is sufficient for me, and I have no plans on going to 35s.
If you’re lucky enough to find a set of Rubi axles, that would make an easy swap for sure, but they’re kinda hard to come by. But keep looking, I found one!
Ultimately yes that is my preferred swap. Unfortunately I have yet to come across even just a rear non-Rubi Dana 44 for sale around here, let alone a full Rubi set. But until I get to that phase of my plans I will certainly continue keeping my eyes open. In reality a Dana 35 will handle any wheeling I’d be doing though.
And I’d recommend looking at some of Jerry Bransford’s posts on gearing for the manual transmission. 4:10’s might not be enough to get your RPM’s back close to factory with those 33’s. It makes a difference, not just for road speed vs RPM’s, but for gas mileage too! 😸

Happy wheeling!
Don’t worry I’ve probably read every thread on here about gearing for my setup, I think Jerry even responded to me mentioning I plan 4.10s once haha. I’ve gone through the gear ratio calculators and I think I’d be happy enough with 4.10’s, at this point anyways I can’t justify the cost to myself of a regear. Swapping in a 4cyl Dana 30/35 is a cheap route to get me by and be able to use 5th (while staying on 33s btw, don’t reeeeally wanna drop in size).
Did regearing actually make a noticeable difference in fuel economy for you? I’ve read some guys say it did and others say it was a negligible to non-existent difference.
 
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