School me on skid plates

Bratch

Bratch

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I haven’t done much on the Jeep lately and I’m starting to get the itch. I have a couple projects (fuel pump, Savvy TCase cable) planned but have also found myself thinking about plates. From what I can tell they would all stack nicely together

I had always thought of plates as mainly plug and play but after reading I’m seeing mention of body lifts, tummy tucks,Slip yolks etc making this seem more invasive than originally thought.

I read an install thread on the UCF no BL plates and it discussed raising the transmission. I had looked at a Rokmen setup with the ½” BL kit but saw where @Chris said he’d never run steel plates again. Everything I thought I knew is being questioned.

Questions I have:

1. Are there any “bolt on”’ plates that offer clearance or protection improvements over factory?

2. If not what options are out there that have the least change to factory design?

3. Is there a solid option that is proven not to kill ride comfort if you do install a BL, MML, etc? Savvy?

Background 2004 LJ that gets driven about 4-5 days a week around town. 31s, H&R springs and Bilstein shocks with spacers on the front to level, tires are fairly new so won’t be bigger anytime soon and I don’t see ever going over 33. No serious off-roading but do some dirt roads and jump curbs a lot for event parking in fields.

I do not need new plates, but I am a belt and suspenders guy. However my main concern is maintaining road manners and a good ride.

Thanks guys looking forward to the education
 
1. UCF makes an aluminum one that will give you about 1.5” of extra clearance and won’t require a body lift.

3. I don’t think any of them kill ride comfort whatsoever, even the Savvy unit.


Don’t run steel, it’s heavy as hell and absolutely unnecessary.
 
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Most skid plate systems when properly installed should not affect ride quality with any significance.

The biggest thing is being sure you can adjust driveline angles to compensate for changes in powertrain angles. As the transmission and transfer case are lifted up, they change the driveshaft angles. If not properly adjusted, this can cause vibrations.

If you have a double cardan rear driveshaft and adjustable control arms, you have most of what you need to make adjustments. A body lift is required for some models, and is often a good idea anyways.

Note that generally only the transfer case skid changes driveline angles. You should also consider a gas tank skid, an engine skid, and a steering box skid. Some even add a radiator skid. None of those will change driveline angles. The presence or absence of a body lift may affect how they are installed.
 
Chris said:
1. UCF makes an aluminum one that will give you about 1.5” of extra clearance and won’t require a body lift.
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You got me looking into UCF. Are there any thoughts on doing their extra-clearance with the LOPRO trans mount to tuck the tummy a little without body lift?
 
Artsifrtsi said:
You got me looking into UCF. Are there any thoughts on doing their extra-clearance with the LOPRO trans mount to tuck the tummy a little without body lift?
Click to expand...

Why avoid a body lift? It's one of the best things you can do, seriously. There is no reason whatsoever to forego the usual 1.25" body lift.

While I have no experience personally with the LoPro, many who run them say they like them, but others (such as Blaine) will tell you they are garbage.

I personally wouldn't run one myself, but that's not to say you can't. I would just get the body lift and forego the LoPro mount personally (y)
 
I’ve never heard of anybody removing a Savvy for something else.

I have read of people removing something else for a Savvy.

Add the body lift and go with a Savvy then smile every time you look at all the clearance you now have.
 
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Chris said:
Why avoid a body lift? It's one of the best things you can do, seriously. There is no reason whatsoever to forego the usual 1.25" body lift.

While I have no experience personally with the LoPro, many who run them say they like them, but others (such as Blaine) will tell you they are garbage.

I personally wouldn't run one myself, but that's not to say you can't. I would just get the body lift and forego the LoPro mount personally (y)
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That is an option... my stock rubber mounts are checked and getting ready to crumble... my only issue is I have always been anti B/L... Is there a recommendation on a kit?
 
Artsifrtsi said:
That is an option... my stock rubber mounts are checked and getting ready to crumble... my only issue is I have always been anti B/L... Is there a recommendation on a kit?
Click to expand...

The Savvy 1.25" body lift is what I would suggest.

To be honest, there is a lot of hate around body lifts, but a 1.25" body lift is a fantastic thing. It allows you to tuck so much up into the tub that it really is worth it. The only down side to a body lift at all is the gap on the back bumper, but it's really not that bad in all honesty. People make a big deal out of it when it really isn't.
 
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Chris said:
The Savvy 1.25" body lift is what I would suggest.

To be honest, there is a lot of hate around body lifts, but a 1.25" body lift is a fantastic thing. It allows you to tuck so much up into the tub that it really is worth it. The only down side to a body lift at all is the gap on the back bumper, but it's really not that bad in all honesty. People make a big deal out of it when it really isn't.
Click to expand...
+1
 
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Chris said:
The Savvy 1.25" body lift is what I would suggest.

To be honest, there is a lot of hate around body lifts, but a 1.25" body lift is a fantastic thing. It allows you to tuck so much up into the tub that it really is worth it. The only down side to a body lift at all is the gap on the back bumper, but it's really not that bad in all honesty. People make a big deal out of it when it really isn't.
Click to expand...

I wonder if that'll also help the trans tunnel heating from the Cat... any thoughts on that?
 
Artsifrtsi said:
I wonder if that'll also help the trans tunnel heating from the Cat... any thoughts on that?
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Hard to say, I've always removed my cats on my TJs as they aren't needed. Inspections can't see the third cat (since it's covered by the skid plate), and removing the third cat won't throw a CEL either.
 
I run Nth Degree steel armor and TT with no body lift. Yup; it's heavy but it's damn near bullet proof. Works for me, though. Has for a long time. Protected from rocks of various sizes and even made for easy cleanup of hog I ran over once. :) Of course I'm in CA so no rust belt here. Can't find Nth degree stuff anymore. Like hell I'd get rid of it and replace it with aluminum unless I had to. Personal preference.
 
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Artsifrtsi said:
You got me looking into UCF. Are there any thoughts on doing their extra-clearance with the LOPRO trans mount to tuck the tummy a little without body lift?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind the more you go up, the more you'll have to change.
 
ejay said:
I run Nth Degree steel armor and TT with no body lift. Yup; it's heavy but it's damn near bullet proof. Works for me, though. Has for a long time. Protected from rocks of various sizes and even made for easy cleanup of hog I ran over once. :) Of course I'm in CA so no rust belt here. Can't find Nth degree stuff anymore. Like hell I'd get rid of it and replace it with aluminum unless I had to. Personal preference.
Click to expand...

I know a guy who caved in his Nth and replaced it with Savvy. ;)
 
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Artsifrtsi said:
You got me looking into UCF. Are there any thoughts on doing their extra-clearance with the LOPRO trans mount to tuck the tummy a little without body lift?
Click to expand...
Some people complain about the increased vibes caused by the Lo-Pro mount when in the idle rpm range (500-900). Other than that con, my guess is you'd get 1-1.25" over stock. I hated the stock shovel and needed the clearance, so I went full bore and did the Savvy (03-06). I love having that clearance and I still touch my skid, so I needed it.
 
jjvw said:
Which makes me wonder why others wouldn't want to go as high and low profile as they can.
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I reasoned that if I was going to put in all that work, I might as well go as high as I could. I still wonder the same thing you wonder every time I read one of these threads.

As for the OP, he doesn't need to do anything to his skid. A stock TJ can drive over curbs to help people park. Spend your money somewhere else.
 
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