Seeking input on going to 35s

[Alex01]

I've been pondering the 33 or 35 question myself for my build, the more I've read the more I've noticed to build for 33's your within 5-6 hundred dollars of building for 35's. I might be missing something but where are you finding a 5G savings only building to 33's?

With both done to the highest forum standards the difference would be:
BMB full kit instead of just pads/rotors: $1,100 vs 300 =save $800
Assuming rear 44 and not hard on the throttle you could likely keep both inner shafts stock: Save 1k
Savvy 1.25" BL - $140
Optional: PSC steering if you play in the rocks (honestly out of everything I've done lately this is the most noticeable on/off road) 2k (includes PSC kit and BMB supplemental kit)

So saves 2-4k

 

[Cedar128]

Listen to Mrblaine. If you properly set up a build for 33s, then 35s is a BL away. I run 35s on most of my Jeeps and my job depends on my Jeep in winter. If I can't drive 365 days a year in any weather condition, I lose my "self employed" job. We got 34" of snow one year and my 2 hour job took 8 hours, but was done on time. I have a Jeep because I trust them and I've had my job for 30 years now. Damn I'm old!

I posted and then read Mrblain's post. I'm building for 35's, and was curious where I could save 5 grand if I stopped at 33's.

 

[Cedar128]

With both done to the highest forum standards the difference would be:
BMB full kit instead of just pads/rotors: $1,100 vs 300 =save $800
Assuming rear 44 and not hard on the throttle you could likely keep both inner shafts stock: Save 1k
Savvy 1.25" BL - $140
Optional: PSC steering if you play in the rocks (honestly out of everything I've done lately this is the most noticeable on/off road) 2k (includes PSC kit and BMB supplemental kit)

So saves 2-4k

I was going for BMB kit when my plan was 33's, I can super 35 my axle, locked cheaper than sourcing a 44 and adding chromoly shafts, and then I still need a locker. Steering I'm going to play by ear for now other than HD WJ parts.

 

[jjvw]

Listen to Mrblaine. If you properly set up a build for 33s, then 35s is a BL away.

Excluding raised skids, this is correct.

 

[Mr. Bills]

. . . the more I've read the more I've noticed to build for 33's your within 5-6 hundred dollars of building for 35's. I might be missing something but where are you finding a 5G savings only building to 33's?

I found it the minute the first person started down the slippery slope toward an empty bank account by suggesting that swapping in entirely different axles might be necessary to run 35's on OP's jeep. The difference in where one sources those axles and how those axles are spec'd could be that much.

You should build the jeep that works for you. It doesn't matter if that jeeps uses 29's or 42's if that is what works for how you use your jeep and how you want it to look.

I'm just suggesting that some thought go into what someone is trying to accomplish by changing their jeep and to consider whether "building big" is actually necessary to accomplish that goal. Whether that saves $500 or $5000 isn't really the point.

 

[Alex01]

The minute the first person started down the slippery slope toward an empty bank account by suggesting that swapping in entirely different axles might be necessary to run 35's on OP's jeep.

Not necessarily true. I did say I would, and did, but then added...

"You can use the Dana 35 with 35's but you'll need to add a super 35 kit in order to safely lock it. Assuming you want to move up to 35's I would put 5.13 gears in the axles. I'd price out F/R lockers, a super 35, and see how close you are to buying a set of used Rubicon axles."

An axle swap often times could be cheaper than building your current axle. For example, I bought my take off rubicon axles for $2k which is considerably less money then it would have been to put selectable lockers F/R in my 30/35 combo.

I also suggested selling the current jeep and buying a built one for pennies on the dollar.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Are you that person? No need to defend yourself or your posts. It wasn't personal.

My point was never about the the exact cost of axles or the price tag of "moving up" to 35's - it was always about engaging in come critical thinking about what one is trying to accomplish before spending one's money on popular modifications that may not be necessary to accomplish those goals.

As pointed out by OP, what he really asked in his first post was whether he could accomplish the trail performance he desired for less than the typical cost of doing 35's, not that he necessarily wanted to go to 35's. This thread immediately launched into a discussion of what OP needed to do to run 35's as if it was a foregone conclusion that he should. That is quite natural in a forum populated by TJ enthusiasts who have already "moved up" to 33's and 35's.

I still haven't seen anything written by OP in this thread that provides enough information for any of us to have a factual basis for suggesting a tire size any different than the 31.5" tires already on his jeep.

Just sayin'.

 

[PAT04TJ]

Are you that person? No need to defend yourself or your posts. It wasn't personal.

My point was never about the the exact cost of axles or the price tag of "moving up" to 35's - it was always about engaging in come critical thinking about what one is trying to accomplish before spending one's money on popular modifications that may not be necessary to accomplish those goals.

As pointed out by OP, what he really asked in his first post was whether he could accomplish the trail performance he desired for less than the typical cost of doing 35's, not that he necessarily wanted to go to 35's. This thread immediately launched into a discussion of what OP needed to do to run 35's as if it was a foregone conclusion that he should. That is quite natural in a forum populated by TJ enthusiasts who have already "moved up" to 33's and 35's.

I still haven't seen anything written by OP in this thread that provides enough information for any of us to have a factual basis for suggesting a tire size any different than the 31.5" tires already on his jeep.

Just sayin'.

I’m not sure I’d have to go up from 31.5”s after a lift Super35s and lockers. But Between clearance and an open diff those two have got me in trouble the most. I try to put myself in a position to get stuck or go through or over something more difficult than the last time I was out whenever I go out. I’d rather get stuck have to winch out than worry about blowing up an axle or locker because I’m running 35”s