Should I add hydro-assist?

How does it do? I have a fresh stock box and am leaning toward having it tapped.
Myself and a few friends run tapped stock boxes with trail gear rams and homemade brackets. Definitely the cheap way to do it. My friends have more wheeling runs than I on theirs and no issues to date but I'm sure you're getting a more worry free experience spending the money on the PSC ram, pump, reservoir and box.
 
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The core bank is fucked. There are no new castings. So, if you get a reman or send yours in to get reman you get back the same worn bore or someone else's worn bore since there is no way to rebuild them. The piston wears the bore with the wheels straight ahead since that is where it spends most of the time while driving, just slight back and forth adjustments to keep it going straight. When they set the lash back after a reman on a worn bore they have to sorta split the difference between too much slop on center and not enough return to center. If you dig around on YouTube, there are a few videos showing how the sector shaft interfaces with the piston and how pulling up the sector to set lash interferes with return to center or creates slop on center.

We used to use the PSC small bore ported boxes until the cores got so bad that we couldn't depend on them any more. We wound up having problems with about 80% of them so we won't even install one now. Small bore is the reman stock TJ Saginaw box.
Great info. Explains the price on the big bore box’s. New castings?
Theoretically, if I have a box that works well now, Having it tapped should not present those issues? It really reinforces the crap shoot that is reman parts.
 
Great info. Explains the price on the big bore box’s. New castings?
Theoretically, if I have a box that works well now, Having it tapped should not present those issues? It really reinforces the crap shoot that is reman parts.
No way to know. They take it apart to tap it and it could go back together just fine.
 
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A gamble that you cannot take working on others rigs. Time is money. You need what works right every time.
 
A gamble that you cannot take working on others rigs. Time is money. You need what works right every time.
No one pays me to fix my fuck ups. No one pays me to fix steering company fuck ups. I have to go with what I have proven to myself works by doing it over and over. Every time I had a problem of any kind and solved it, that solution got moved to every parts order. Also why very little of what I use is available in kit form from anyone. It is all pieced together so I don't have to fix it very often. I still run into issues but not often and not common.
 
What length cylinder did you buy? From my understanding MrBlaine’s cylinder is modified to be a bit shorter to work properly in the location it is mounted. The TJs unique steering is what presents the challenge with off the shelf kits.
I bought this kit:

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/vehi...ep-temp/95-02-jeep-yj-xj-tj-zj/psc-sk247.html
I did not know Blaine had any of this available when I bought it 6 months ago. I see the tricks to shortening the ram and hiems too. This has turned into a valuable thread.
 
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If you aren't bleeding them by turning the pump pulley with something like an air ratchet to make sure there is absolutely no air in the system before you start it, you likely smoked the ring and rotor. It will progressively get worse due to the pits from cavitation that it will make noise at lower and lower rpms until it does it all the time. The high performance pumps have zero tolerance for cavitation.
Hadn’t thought of bleeding with a ratchet. Will it be in the instructions?
 
No one pays me to fix my fuck ups. No one pays me to fix steering company fuck ups. I have to go with what I have proven to myself works by doing it over and over. Every time I had a problem of any kind and solved it, that solution got moved to every parts order. Also why very little of what I use is available in kit form from anyone. It is all pieced together so I don't have to fix it very often. I still run into issues but not often and not common.
Yes. This is why I try to rarely use aftermarket parts in The forklift world. Ya we can replace a defective part. But we loose money and the customer is not happy about down time.
 
Yes. This is why I try to rarely use aftermarket parts in The forklift world. Ya we can replace a defective part. But we loose money and the customer is not happy about down time.
So, "total source" is no bueno? I have three more leaky cylinders on our komatsu lifts to fix.
 
So, "total source" is no bueno? I have three more leaky cylinders on our komatsu lifts to fix.
We do use them on competitor parts.
how have the seals been holding up? I have been told most of that stuff comes from India. A lot of it is because when we call as a competitor we don’t always get the fastest service. So for some makes we use total source/TVH.
 
The core bank is fucked. There are no new castings. So, if you get a reman or send yours in to get reman you get back the same worn bore or someone else's worn bore since there is no way to rebuild them. The piston wears the bore with the wheels straight ahead since that is where it spends most of the time while driving, just slight back and forth adjustments to keep it going straight. When they set the lash back after a reman on a worn bore they have to sorta split the difference between too much slop on center and not enough return to center. If you dig around on YouTube, there are a few videos showing how the sector shaft interfaces with the piston and how pulling up the sector to set lash interferes with return to center or creates slop on center.

We used to use the PSC small bore ported boxes until the cores got so bad that we couldn't depend on them any more. We wound up having problems with about 80% of them so we won't even install one now. Small bore is the reman stock TJ Saginaw box.
What about hard chroming and ID grinding the bore back to size? You think there is enough of a market, and that the market would pay for it? I'd imagine, depending on how worn the ID's get, it would be a couple hundred bucks to have it done (just the chrome and machining...no disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, etc).
 
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What about hard chroming and ID grinding the bore back to size? You think there is enough of a market, and that the market would pay for it? I'd imagine, depending on how worn the ID's get, it would be a couple hundred bucks to have it done (just the chrome and machining...no disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, etc).
Lares has new steering gears listed On their web site. So they are available. But maybe cost prohibitive vs a large bore box?
 
We do use them on competitor parts.
how have the seals been holding up? I have been told most of that stuff comes from India. A lot of it is because when we call as a competitor we don’t always get the fastest service. So for some makes we use total source/TVH.
Two of the cylinders that I paid to have repaired/rebuilt used total source parts, that was two years ago. Both are weeping/small leaking. They did not do any cylinder honing, which may be why they are starting to leak, or it could be the seals. My money is on the seals. I will be doing them myself this time and doing a little bottlebrush honing too. I have tried a online company (can't remember the site) to order a packing kit using the model and serial number. Entirely wrong parts arrived. Stuff like a 3" bore lip seal were the OE is 2", etc.. So, I am still looking for a reliable source. We have a local supplier named "O" rings-N-things that nails it 100%. But you have to take the parts too them to match. I was there today, saved me a ton, $13.50 for a head and gland seal parts. New cylinder is $400.
 
Two of the cylinders that I paid to have repaired/rebuilt used total source parts, that was two years ago. Both are weeping/small leaking. They did not do any cylinder honing, which may be why they are starting to leak, or it could be the seals. My money is on the seals. I will be doing them myself this time and doing a little bottlebrush honing too. I have tried a online company (can't remember the site) to order a packing kit using the model and serial number. Entirely wrong parts arrived. Stuff like a 3" bore lip seal were the OE is 2", etc.. So, I am still looking for a reliable source. We have a local supplier named "O" rings-N-things that nails it 100%. But you have to take the parts too them to match. I was there today, saved me a ton, $13.50 for a head and gland seal parts. New cylinder is $400.
Yes. We have a couple local shops that do the same. Usually get quality stuff from them.
komatsu usually needs the mast number to accurately get us parts. We used to be a Komatsu dealer, then a Tusk dealer (same thing) we now manufacturer own brand LP trucks.
 
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Redneck ram will sell just the seal kit if you can rebuild your own steering gear. Their seal kits are definitely better than stock and I haven't had any issues with them leaking. It obviously won't do anything for the worn part of the box but it will keep it from leaking.
 
What about hard chroming and ID grinding the bore back to size? You think there is enough of a market, and that the market would pay for it? I'd imagine, depending on how worn the ID's get, it would be a couple hundred bucks to have it done (just the chrome and machining...no disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, etc).
On a similar topic - why not just make oversized pistons? The castings could be bored out and an oversized piston installed (similar to when overhauling an engine).
 
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I think tooling and labor to do so would drive the price up to what they are selling the new big boxes. Lares shows they offer a new stock size box. Looks like it is around $430.
 
On a similar topic - why not just make oversized pistons? The castings could be bored out and an oversized piston installed (similar to when overhauling an engine).
I'd guess that the casting isn't thick enough. One of the things we check on a new install is to ensure that the 3 faces of the bolt sleeves are exactly in the same plane to make certain that we are not racking or twisting the casting which messes with how the piston moves in the bore.

If it was just a matter of a typical piston it would be easier but when you have a chunk of gear and some other crap, that gets more complex.
 
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I think tooling and labor to do so would drive the price up to what they are selling the new big boxes. Lares shows they offer a new stock size box. Looks like it is around $430.
I can't prove it but since Crown Automotive is also selling a new steering gear, I'd suspect they are coming out of the same place and the report I saw on the CA version isn't that great.
 
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