Show off your Metalcloak fenders

Alex01 said:
Tire Size 35"

Lift 4+1.25

What Fender You Went With: Ovlerline - Mod Cut rear 6" flares.

Your thoughts/experience with them: They are really easy to install and if you want a removable fender they are the only option I know of.

If you have any other fender flares or fenders that you wanna show off, I would love to see them as well! - I'm currently in the process of swapping them out though for Genright 4 inch fenders because I prefer the lines of the GR/the GR replacements are aluminum.

View attachment 229140

GR
View attachment 229142
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That does look really good.
 
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Gollywomper said:
.... I can’t use all that clearance anyway with 35’s. My tires will hit the back when turning before I can get enough up travel. I can’t move my axle forward or I have diff/track at issues.
that 4” lift plus 1.25 BL.
...
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Have you seen my fixes for that?
 
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i kinda like the Nemesis fenders, you gotta buy the flare s separate i think. but i like how high it sits vs the head lamp.

that previous pic of those PS fenders. looks a tad odd to me. those look like they should be for a stretched front end, the way they angled the fender well forward so much as it rises............that's whats what looks to be allowing the back wall contact.
 
GenericDisplayName said:
Originally mainly just aesthetic, though as I have gone more down the rabbit hole my reasons have grown. If I am going to be spending money to replace my current fender flares might as well get something functional. I want metal incase I am banging up against tree's or anything else I don't wanna have to worry, I also enjoy having a good quality product that is gonna last, and the additional clearance would be helpful.
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Why is steel better against trees than some kind of plastic material that bends and re-forms? How much does steel weigh? What effect does that have on whether you would have hit the tree to begin with because your rig now weighs 4750lb with all that heavy steel bumpers and stuff on it? What if you hit your steel fender on a tree? Where is that energy transferred too? There are a lot of questions here you're not asking and assuming many things that are not true.
 
Gollywomper said:
No.........lol
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You can gain about 3/4" by bending the track bar around the diff cover with a shop press. The drag link needs more bend, as well. Then there is another ~3/4" if you move the frame side track bar forward on the frame along with more bending.
 
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Tire Size: 35

Lift (if any lift is had): Currently 3.5” SL and 1.25” BL. Originally ran them with zero lift.

What Fender You Went With: Overline 4”

Your thoughts/experience with them: no complaints, like that I can remove them when modifying/maintaining the Jeep

B60378B3-6160-4198-91BC-B8E645440338.jpeg
 
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jjvw said:
You can gain about 3/4" by bending the track bar around the diff cover with a shop press. The drag link needs more bend, as well. Then there is another ~3/4" if you move the frame side track bar forward on the frame along with more bending.
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Definitely not for the faint of heart. It's impressive work.
 
JMT said:
Why is steel better against trees than some kind of plastic material that bends and re-forms? How much does steel weigh? What effect does that have on whether you would have hit the tree to begin with because your rig now weighs 4750lb with all that heavy steel bumpers and stuff on it? What if you hit your steel fender on a tree? Where is that energy transferred too? There are a lot of questions here you're not asking and assuming many things that are not true.
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Oh I am in no way saying I know these things. That is why I am here, I am trying to learn from what other people have to say and their experiences. As for the weight, as others have said aluminum is a lighter alternative, don't wanna way down the ol' TJ. I'm also not really set on having metal, it would be be nice because I enjoy the look more and think that usually a metal product will holdup better then plastic, though you make a lot of good points for venturing to other alternatives.
 
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GenericDisplayName said:
Oh I am in no way saying I know these things. That is why I am here, I am trying to learn from what other people have to say and their experiences. As for the weight, as others have said aluminum is a lighter alternative, don't wanna way down the ol' TJ. I'm also not really set on having metal, it would be be nice because I enjoy the look more and think that usually a metal product will holdup better then plastic, though you make a lot of good points for venturing to other alternatives.
Click to expand...

What holds up the best to abuse is something that isn't there to begin with. 🙂
 
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Gollywomper said:
No.........lol
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jjvw said:
You can gain about 3/4" by bending the track bar around the diff cover with a shop press. The drag link needs more bend, as well. Then there is another ~3/4" if you move the frame side track bar forward on the frame along with more bending.
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Yes I did bend my MC track bar. I can get down below a 2” bump. But need longer shocks and new upper mount to fit the shocks. I don’t plan to address that until it becomes an issue. I am really trying to not chase problems I dont have. Lol. More travel would be nice. But hasn’t caused issues yet. I have enough uptravel to bomb mountain logging roads without my sway bar connected. So not too concerned yet. Maybe someday.
 
GenericDisplayName said:
Oh I am in no way saying I know these things. That is why I am here, I am trying to learn from what other people have to say and their experiences. As for the weight, as others have said aluminum is a lighter alternative, don't wanna way down the ol' TJ. I'm also not really set on having metal, it would be be nice because I enjoy the look more and think that usually a metal product will holdup better then plastic, though you make a lot of good points for venturing to other alternatives.
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MCE are $400 for the set. They are a thermoplastic that have a lifetime warranty, can flex and go back to the original position, be damaged, but don't break. They don't transfer energy to the body where you really don't want damage.

Genright Aluminum and similar. Around $1300. The best.

Everything else I know of is really lower in quality.
 
JMT said:
MCE are $400 for the set. They are a thermoplastic that have a lifetime warranty, can flex and go back to the original position, be damaged, but don't break. They don't transfer energy to the body where you really don't want damage.

Genright Aluminum and similar. Around $1300. The best.

Everything else I know of is really lower in quality.
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You don't know what you don't know. ;) Genright fenders have a major design flaw in that they don't allow a tolerable amount of uptravel.
 
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JMT said:
Less the inners. I would love to go flush and save all that weight, either steel or Aluminum. Plus, I just think it looks sooo much better.

I think the OP wants tire coverage though. That's my understanding. Just questions for him to consider.
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The inners are maybe 3-5 lbs, very thin, very light aluminum.
 
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