Skid plates & armor: When to use steel and when to use aluminum?

i'm not gonna have much trim left under the tailgate once my new frame tubes are placed. the bumper will be up behind the tire at that point, so odd's are i'll never fit the flop down anyways.

is there a tire bump on the top of the hoop? or it's just design i'd almost not mind loosing the top hoop portion.
 
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someguysjeep said:
for as large as that GR appears, it says it's like 25# IIFC. i kinda almost like the drop down version too. the older i get the heavier those big tires get. the tag is not cheap for either. but the way the rear ends up after mods will dictate what's able to be used.

found a PS version (750$ ish) of a drop down but, couldn't find a weight. but it's construction eludes it's likely close to +20# vs the GR aluminum.
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Having messed with both the drop down and the swing versions, I would not take either of them for free.
 
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mrblaine said:
Having messed with both the drop down and the swing versions, I would not take either of them for free.
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weighing options at this point it's this type or beast up the gate frame, which i'm also considering. i assume the gate frame reinforcement might be a solid choice as well, certainly 1/2 the cost.
 
someguysjeep said:
weighing options at this point it's this type or beast up the gate frame, which i'm also considering. i assume the gate frame reinforcement might be a solid choice as well, certainly 1/2 the cost.
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ideally wanting to carry it as tight and low as possible without being into any departure angles.
 
someguysjeep said:
for as large as that GR appears, it says it's like 25# IIFC. i kinda almost like the drop down version too. the older i get the heavier those big tires get. the tag is not cheap for either. but the way the rear ends up after mods will dictate what's able to be used.

found a PS version (750$ ish) of a drop down but, couldn't find a weight. but it's construction eludes it's likely close to +20# vs the GR aluminum.
Click to expand...
On Genrights site they say the steel drop down

Super light weight, entire assembly only weighs 55lbs (including bumper plate)!

The Alum

Super light weight, entire assembly only weighs 25lbs (including bumper plate)!

so a 30lb difference
 
mrblaine said:
Having messed with both the drop down and the swing versions, I would not take either of them for free.
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Do you have a preferred way/position to mount the spare? Right now I just strap the tire to the floor of the tub which seems to balance the rig out nice but eats up a lot of real estate.
 
steel swing or drops are not an option to me, definitely not worth the added weight.
i built so much shit from steel, it was really starting to accumulate. while being able to fab most everything for next to nothing.......it was still gonna cost me the most where i don't want it...........on my JEEP.

light is nimble, heavy is cumbersome, simple as that.
so Savvy has earned quite a bit of my coin lately, in effort to trim the fast adding weight of steel pieces and a few of my lacking designs.
 
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kmas0n said:
Are you implying you just don't carry a spare?
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I assumed the question was directed towards those who do carry a spare and what my preference was there. I don't have one. I put them inside, flat, mounted at an angle, Genright drop down, GR tub mount swing, whatever works for whoever owns the rig. My personal needs don't apply.
 
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mrblaine said:
I assumed the question was directed towards those who do carry a spare and what my preference was there. I don't have one. I put them inside, flat, mounted at an angle, Genright drop down, GR tub mount swing, whatever works for whoever owns the rig. My personal needs don't apply.
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Thank you for clarifying.
 
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mrblaine said:
I put them inside, flat, mounted at an angle,
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this is/was my 1st intention and the best option to centralize weight. cell behind the seats and tire behind it on an angled mount, not even bothered if i pulled the gate permanently.

but having the possibility of having to take my girl and 2 dogs on any cross country excursions negates the ability to stuff the tub.
see yall talked me through this seeing it in text..............beef my gate to hold the spare for when i'm draggin the troops and a removable stand for inside the bed when i don't. i might even be able to jimmy rig somthin to the seat mounts for a quick release. hmmm.
 
So are there any good aluminum rocker guards? Or is steel still the preference there? I’m not talking about steps or anything like that, just a good guard that works
 
Genright is the only aluminum rocker guard I can think of. As often as I hit mine I think I'd rather keep steel there.
 
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Yes, the tire does bump the hoop but I’m sure it could be removed. For my needs this is the best compromise, it’s lightweight, simple design, rubber bushings at all 4 attachment points, doesn’t rattle, holds a big spare, and had the best departure angle with these needs in mind. Inside or on the trailer would not work for how I use my rig.
 
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tworley said:
Genright is the only aluminum rocker guard I can think of. As often as I hit mine I think I'd rather keep steel there.
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how thick is your rocker guard ? it holds up fine for your needs?
i was thinkin 7ga/3/16 max, 1/4 seems super heavy for a chunk that thick n long,
 
DrDmoney said:
Yes, the tire does bump the hoop but I’m sure it could be removed. For my needs this is the best compromise, it’s lightweight, simple design, rubber bushings at all 4 attachment points, doesn’t rattle, holds a big spare, and had the best departure angle with these needs in mind. Inside or on the trailer would not work for how I use my rig.
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Cons are the bushings and mounts require perfect alignment to just make it a pain in the ass to open and close. The tire mount to the carrier is painful at best. A couple of well thought out latches on the operable side would take it from this sucks to okay.
 
mrblaine said:
Cons are the bushings and mounts require perfect alignment to just make it a pain in the ass to open and close. The tire mount to the carrier is painful at best. A couple of well thought out latches on the operable side would take it from this sucks to okay.
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Agreed, I’ve looked at this on a similar design I was working on that utilized car door strikers and latches but it was too complicated for something this simple. Mine is not difficult to latch but it does require lifting up an inch to get it in the brackets.
 
I've never owned a piece of aluminum armor, so I know almost nothing about it.
Can someone explain why aluminum works great for transfer case skids and tube fenders, but not for rocker sliders. The way I have seen some of you guys wheel, I feel like you use your aluminum tube fenders as "hood sliders".
 
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