OP
dam i hate ohio anymore but love livin so close to Summit, it's already here.
Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
- Start date
I graduated from high school in Fremont. I've been back 4 times in the past 47 years, the last time was a year ago for a funeral. Don't miss it one little bit.
OP
i'm right on the west side of cleveland and it's starin to all turn ghetto. i have no tolerance for the cold winters anymore and the co i been with for 20yrss is goin down the drain..........it's time for a change.
OP
alright , so i got this Derale trans temp gauge 140-300* range came with a bulkhead fitting i assumed would be crap, (hence the plans for the bung) but it actually looks pretty solid..........any reason not try it?
Don’t see why not. Derale stuff is top notch in my experience. I’d imagine the bulkhead fitting coming from them would be fine. Worst cast it leaks and you just have to weld in a bung.
That said - I have no direct experence using a bulkhead fitting in a trans pan.
But truthfully, if I’m taking the time to pull the pan, I’m welding in a bung.
OP
i read reviews of some bulkhead fitting and some reports of some being cheesy enough you break um with the wrenches b4 the you got um tight, but this thing is thick and i ain't gonna strip or break it with any wrenches................ and if it wouldn't hold a seal for any reason (it's got a nylon washer), i could just weld or braze it directly.
as long as the jeeps locked away for 6months a yr up here not driven, i probably should be changin that fluid every season anyways.
I’ve swapped trannys often enough that I’ve never had to change the fluid…
OP
i do fire it every wk -10dys but it doesn't move so IDK how much of that trans fluid might get stirred during those inactive months.
OP
oils changed and stahlbus valve installed.............. finally, only had this thing sittin around for about 5 months now.
OP
makin some progress, kinda backed myself into a corner literally.
i need to do some final welding on a few of the beams on the far side. the short lead won't reach over and i'm not gonna try and drag it around on the ground, so i need to move it over or try and drag the welding cart through the lawn.
been thinkin more about this decking. i'm gonna go ahead and go with a 2x10-12" planks they got this extra treated ground contact wood now, supposed to last 10yrs in contact with the dirt......i think that'd be an acceptable level of protection for a deck.
for the checker plate i could take and plasma a pattern and run it for grip strips just 13" wide under the wheels, that'd enforce the 2x material across the 24" spans too.
i need to do some final welding on a few of the beams on the far side. the short lead won't reach over and i'm not gonna try and drag it around on the ground, so i need to move it over or try and drag the welding cart through the lawn.
been thinkin more about this decking. i'm gonna go ahead and go with a 2x10-12" planks they got this extra treated ground contact wood now, supposed to last 10yrs in contact with the dirt......i think that'd be an acceptable level of protection for a deck.
for the checker plate i could take and plasma a pattern and run it for grip strips just 13" wide under the wheels, that'd enforce the 2x material across the 24" spans too.
OP
might be a bit of difference in available torque ..........that rig is a V8, no? @NashvilleTJ
Yes he has a Dodge magnum 5.9 V-8 (stock) & 46RE transmission.
OP
i forgot to mention this. i'm a tad apprehensive about this baffle thing in the exhaust tube. i fired it up the other day after the oil change to circulate everything, maybe 5m at most. anyways the pipes are scalding from the headers to the muffler but i can grab and hold the muffler outlet without burning myself. thats not good IMO seems like it's damming temps up b4 the muffler maybe.
it's gotta come out today and it'll do another test with an open tube and see if it's similar. just doesn't seem right.
what are the ramifications of gutting the mini cats? will it mess with engine tuning input? something under this hood thats super heating shit. these guys all got CO's and resi's under the hood and my pass side builds enough heat to cook the strut, WTH is it? is this not a baffle issue and maybe another problem?
it's gotta come out today and it'll do another test with an open tube and see if it's similar. just doesn't seem right.
what are the ramifications of gutting the mini cats? will it mess with engine tuning input? something under this hood thats super heating shit. these guys all got CO's and resi's under the hood and my pass side builds enough heat to cook the strut, WTH is it? is this not a baffle issue and maybe another problem?
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OP
played with location for the temp gauge, don't want it up top of the dash or on any bars or riser, don't need it centralized so i become fixated on it all the time. so down and out of the way of knees and hands and levers, but still in a direct line from my eyes with no obstructions. carved out some of the plastic so it'd lean back. it's not far from the sensor and not far from vamping a power source.
Yup. He also did a home porting job on his heads, of which he says he can feel a difference.
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OP
well the gauge is wired in, just need to connect power and the sensor. found a hole in the tub center of the tunnel right above the trans tail the wire went right up and into the coin cubby i'm workin in.
trans pan is down filter is out, need to score 1 tomrw. fluid looked fine, nothin but superfine dust on the magnet. the rest is spotless inside. outside of the pan had a couple spots i cleaned up and primed for some new paint. drillin it for the bung tomrw. back on as soon as the paint can be handled. i think i dumped about 6-6.5 quarts from it. i assume the cooler is holding volume to the fitting level still too and maybe a valley or 2 in the line routing.
and i pulled the baffle out of the exhaust tube. we'll see if the tail of the muffler gets hot or if the heat still feels trapped b4 it.
trans pan is down filter is out, need to score 1 tomrw. fluid looked fine, nothin but superfine dust on the magnet. the rest is spotless inside. outside of the pan had a couple spots i cleaned up and primed for some new paint. drillin it for the bung tomrw. back on as soon as the paint can be handled. i think i dumped about 6-6.5 quarts from it. i assume the cooler is holding volume to the fitting level still too and maybe a valley or 2 in the line routing.
and i pulled the baffle out of the exhaust tube. we'll see if the tail of the muffler gets hot or if the heat still feels trapped b4 it.
OP
today new filter is installed, holes drilled in the pan and the pans painted, should be good for reinstall tomrw.
no great place for a fitting as large as the bulkhead nut inside, the pan doesn't have the depth beyond the inner workings to fit it into the back wall, the driver side wall or most of the front wall. the passenger side wall is wide open, but the exhaust tube is within inches. the only place the pan is deep enough is the front passenger side. it's an acceptable distance from the hot exhaust and the pans deep enough to let the fitting clear the inner workings, it's right next to the filter body.
no great place for a fitting as large as the bulkhead nut inside, the pan doesn't have the depth beyond the inner workings to fit it into the back wall, the driver side wall or most of the front wall. the passenger side wall is wide open, but the exhaust tube is within inches. the only place the pan is deep enough is the front passenger side. it's an acceptable distance from the hot exhaust and the pans deep enough to let the fitting clear the inner workings, it's right next to the filter body.
OP
couple pics. green line is exhaust tube within a few inches of that side and how that side is nice and wide open. bung fits about where the ylw circle is below the valve body (?) and the filter casing. and where that is on the pan.
