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Someguys 04

flyinfish

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Mike_H

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i been trying to do some research on it. this seems fairly easy to follow. if i deviate colors i'll be sure to label it.

View attachment 333153

View attachment 333154
https://mechanicalelements.com/trailer-wiring-diagram/
Good wiring project to get your feet wet. Trailers are extremely simple, as long as you have a good ground. Make sure each light has a good clean bolt and ring terminal and drill a new hole for it so you're not trying to conduct through iron oxide. Same at the tongue... White wire too a fresh, clean hole in the tongue with a good ring terminal. Now the whole frame is grounded and you'll have good lights for a long time.
 
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someguysjeep

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Good wiring project to get your feet wet.
while i won't claim to be an electrician or even have an apprentice's knowledge. i can fumble through most of it....i'm not uncomfortable with dedicated circuits, it's cutting into the sys that i have trouble with, knowing whats run where and fed from what and what has room to support more is where i have issue.

it's all new construction so they'll all be clean new holes.
i have seen diagrams with a ground wire run all the way around the structure and everything tied into that common and i have seen the structure used as the common. running just the power supply around the structure and grounding everything to the structure.
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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nothing of consequence accomplished this wkend. lots of yard work and spring cleaning to get caught up on. did manage to make some aluminum brackets for those little speakers then got those all wired and tucked away. still need to dress out the wire running across to the far side.

since i was right there playing with the speaker wires, i went ahead and wired up a small old cheapo floodlight for an overhead lamp, nothin fancy, simple, cheap and functions like stock.

then i got that fire extinguisher quick release mounted to the harness bar just over my right shoulder.........just holding a small kitchen bottle at this position but will have a larger unit tucked in the bed or located in another spot.

phones dead, i'll get pics up tomrw morn.........takin the woman to the local rib cook off this afternoon for dinner and a band.
 
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someguysjeep

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pics as promised.
you can see the small grey speakers tucked in just behind the B bar on the front of the hump. just a simple aluminum bar anchored to the armor bolts holdin them in there well enough they shouldn't rattle.

cheap ass flood lamp dome light, i had a set submerged in crap b4 and they held up so it should handle this task. i have extras if it croaks. painted a hose clamp flat back and clamped it up there. i still need to dress that last bit of wire. works from the stem and/or the door jamb switch like stock.

then the small fireX clamped on right over my shoulder.

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flyinfish

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Looks good! I was looking at the Synergy branded fire extinguisher release on Poly's site and really like it. I wonder if it will rattle over time.
 
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someguysjeep

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Looks good! I was looking at the Synergy branded fire extinguisher release on Poly's site and really like it. I wonder if it will rattle over time.
can't remember.....some cheap knock off from amazon. mounts solid multiple places for clamps or could be screwed on. release is clean, but it may rattle a bit....... it's barely got slop so a folded match book cover could handle that.
 
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flyinfish

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can't remember.....some cheap knock off from amazon. mounts solid multiple places for clamps or could be screwed on. release is clean, but it may rattle a bit....... it's barely got slop so a folded match book cover could handle that.
I'm not knocking your install, that's solid. I'm thinking the pivot and locking pin may wear into the aluminum over time causing a rattle. Only time will tell and they're cheap enough to replace if it does.
 
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someguysjeep

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I'm not knocking your install, that's solid. I'm thinking the pivot and locking pin may wear into the aluminum over time causing a rattle. Only time will tell and they're cheap enough to replace if it does.
i didn't think that at all..........and your points are valid that's why i just got a small bottle in there less to weight work against it all. but the 2 frames have a bit of room between them and basically just rests on the pins, that's where the wiggle or rattle will occur. if it were a tighter tolerance between pieces it could get hung if not withdraw dead straight up and out
 
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someguysjeep

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this morning i'm approached by the VP and the shop supervisor (< still lookin for reason to get rid of me), they ask me what this odd looking part is and why it's not like the rest. what is it doing here, who made it and why.
i explain ( i started with i don't GAF what you think) to them that if i make more than 10 parts, i make a jig so they are all the same. this order has 76, 20ft x3ft sections and if we want them alike this is how i make that happen............jigs are not a new concept, we have hundreds for various parts. the VP starts bitchin about i wasted time makin this instead of making parts i said i made 1, then made my jig to it, then made 18 more (order is going 4 stages, 4 different dates). the VP storms off mumblin and the shop boss tells me way to go, now he's gotta hear about this.

2 hrs later they were back with the owner. he looked for a few minutes then asked, if we sent this to the field could they build um?.........i tell um sure, it's pretty simple. then he says, ok do what you gotta do to get this packed up to ship, this will save us a bunch of shop hrs and he walked off...the other 2 douches were not happy campers.
 
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someguysjeep

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been dickin with stupid little punch list crap nothin much. did make up a couple ramps, just shortys 50"x 18" from 3" channels and 2x2x1/4 angles. i'll get pics up when i unload them.
all that wiring in the jeep is buttoned up.
even worked on the trailer the other day some, got the bottom surface cleaned and primed. made a hand full of gussets to do some tie ins from the cross members to the main beams. and started drilling holes for wires/conduit.

i did some reading on trailer construction, and specifically the way brackets weld on, i had a hunch and it was confirmed so i am adding a flat bar. the brackets will weld to the flat bar the flat bar will weld to the main beams, 1/2" x 4". i figure it might work 2 fold, 1 being not welding across the main beams and the 2nd being it'll strengthen the horizontal bend rating of the open face C channels in that zone.
gonna try and get some welding done tomrw.
 

flyinfish

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this morning i'm approached by the VP and the shop supervisor (< still lookin for reason to get rid of me), they ask me what this odd looking part is and why it's not like the rest. what is it doing here, who made it and why.
i explain ( i started with i don't GAF what you think) to them that if i make more than 10 parts, i make a jig so they are all the same. this order has 76, 20ft x3ft sections and if we want them alike this is how i make that happen............jigs are not a new concept, we have hundreds for various parts. the VP starts bitchin about i wasted time makin this instead of making parts i said i made 1, then made my jig to it, then made 18 more (order is going 4 stages, 4 different dates). the VP storms off mumblin and the shop boss tells me way to go, now he's gotta hear about this.

2 hrs later they were back with the owner. he looked for a few minutes then asked, if we sent this to the field could they build um?.........i tell um sure, it's pretty simple. then he says, ok do what you gotta do to get this packed up to ship, this will save us a bunch of shop hrs and he walked off...the other 2 douches were not happy campers.

The VP of your company is a real piece of work!
 
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someguysjeep

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The VP of your company is a real piece of work!

it's going down hill so fast..... it's out of control.


couple pics of those ramps........they look steep, but not as steep as trying to load with no ramps. 8" centers on the rungs, still need to cope the bottom so they'll sit flat on the ground once i have a ride height established.

284512748_429611802005993_3661335984006956732_n.jpg


285719104_1463362844078128_8236671839040707741_n.jpg
 
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flyinfish

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it's going down hill so fast..... it's out of control.


couple pics of those ramps........they look steep, but not as steep as trying to load with no ramps. 8" centers on the rungs, still need to cope the bottom so they'll sit flat on the ground once i have a ride height established.

View attachment 334798

View attachment 334799

Nice work! It looks your home VP is doing an inspection and might cost you a treat to get certified. :D
 
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someguysjeep

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it was windy yesterday not any good for welding outdoors. i need to find some large boxes and make some wind screens, i tried plastic and tarps but they burn/melt to easily and stink like shit. i have some fire blankets but those are heavy and to cumbersome to hang or tent. thick wall cardboard you can wet the face with a spray bottle jam it in there or prop it up and go.

since welding wasn't an option i got the skids all back on, been some time and haven't seen any witness of seepage from the new oil drain or the trans pan and bulkhead fitting, i also opened up the TC, i can see moisture around the front output but it's just barely damp it's not spewing it'll keep for now with plans to mess with all that in the future. anyways i topped of the TC (about a turkey baster full) b4 getting the skids back on.

i was all ready to bust out the welder this morn and i'll be damned if it's not rainin, so i might be doin the other trailer axle today.
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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well the joke in Cleveland is if you don't like the weather just wait 5m it'll change. sure enough it came around to fairly sunny and dried out pretty quick. i busted out the welder to get something done.

what i mentioned above about jigs i hold myself to at home also. if i'm making parts that need to be identical they are made as 1 or side by side, they really aren't worth a jigs time, but making an attempt to make them as similar as possible does help. i did this for my rear armor a while back and today for my flat bars and suspension brackets. and i mis-stated the size of the flat bar it's 1/2 x 3".

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someguysjeep

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i test fit a set of springs and an equalizer and got the brackets welded on.....looks good so far.
i'm gonna clean it up tomrw and prime and paint a fair bit of what will be the underside. any burn off from welding can be touched up. then it's just clamp these up to my main beams and weld um on there.
 
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someguysjeep

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the head electrician came for a favor, he needed something welded up for his tractor. he asked if i got those lights figured out, so i mentioned i was gonna look for some 12 to run brakes, ground and aux, power, and he gave me about 24ft of 12/3, he says he shoulda tossed last wk.

gonna start to order odds and ends from Amazon.........a break away brake kit, 8ft 7 plug lead with a weatherproof box, some new rubber grommets for the axle tube wire holes and a 3 light bar for middle of the back end, it's the only lamp i'm committed to just yet. got things prepped to weld again tomrw morn if the winds not blowin.
 

flyinfish

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the head electrician came for a favor, he needed something welded up for his tractor. he asked if i got those lights figured out, so i mentioned i was gonna look for some 12 to run brakes, ground and aux, power, and he gave me about 24ft of 12/3, he says he shoulda tossed last wk.

gonna start to order odds and ends from Amazon.........a break away brake kit, 8ft 7 plug lead with a weatherproof box, some new rubber grommets for the axle tube wire holes and a 3 light bar for middle of the back end, it's the only lamp i'm committed to just yet. got things prepped to weld again tomrw morn if the winds not blowin.

Gotta love a good shopping list!
 
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