Splicing Synthetic Winch Line

need some help here, I've got a Safety Thimble on the way & I just began the disassembly of the synthetic line, but it doesn't look like what I've seen in the videos I watched? I think to get this untied I have to run the entire length of the line through that lower opening but I can't get the line off the drum, it's jammed in there so tight I'd have to pull it out with pliers but I don't want to do that & damage it.

Couple questions, are people just cutting off this last section & starting fresh or is there another way to disassemble this and preserve the entire length of the line?

Also, is this kind of knot below necessary for this line or can I do the other type that just goes into the center of the line & gets buried a few fid lengths down?

As of yesterday, I've somehow managed to roam this planet for 53+ years literally without once ever hearing the word fid, now I've used it in a sentence and will own one all in 2 days :oops:, fuckin Jeep

Winch line.jpg
 
Westtown Willy said:
need some help here, I've got a Safety Thimble on the way & I just began the disassembly of the synthetic line, but it doesn't look like what I've seen in the videos I watched? I think to get this untied I have to run the entire length of the line through that lower opening but I can't get the line off the drum, it's jammed in there so tight I'd have to pull it out with pliers but I don't want to do that & damage it.

Couple questions, are people just cutting off this last section & starting fresh or is there another way to disassemble this and preserve the entire length of the line?

Also, is this kind of knot below necessary for this line or can I do the other type that just goes into the center of the line & gets buried a few fid lengths down?

As of yesterday, I've somehow managed to roam this planet for 53+ years literally without once ever hearing the word fid, now I've used it in a sentence and will own one all in 2 days :oops:, fuckin Jeep

View attachment 106337
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I cut them off. A locked Brummel is totally unwarranted for this application.
 
excellent, those were the words I was hoping to hear. The videos make it look pretty straight forward. I was concerned thinking that my line was too squished together to open up & do this, it always seemed compacted in size but as soon as I started pushing it together it opened right up & was as pliable and easy to work with as the day I bought it.

I'll admit I used to wonder how strong this kind of line could be because I thought that the section that wrapped around the thimble (or whatever that metal piece is called that the winch comes with) was a half section of line and where it joined back up with the other half it was woven together for the entire length of the line, I had no idea it was all the same diameter with a simple splice at the end. It blows my mind that such a thing is so strong.

Thank God for smart people that figure all this shit out
 
Mine had a locked Brummel on it but I was able to remove the rope from the new winch drum and easily undo it. I was thinking I needed to do a locked splice because it came like that from the manufacturer but did a deep burry splice (I think) and it has worked fine. And I agree
 
Mike the Silver TJ said:
Mine had a locked Brummel on it but I was able to remove the rope from the new winch drum and easily undo it. I was thinking I needed to do a locked splice because it came like that from the manufacturer but did a deep burry splice (I think) and it has worked fine. And I agree
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Once you load the buried tail splice with any force, it locks in well enough that we generally have to use something like a dull ice pick to get the eye around the thimble to move enough to undo the splice.
 
Westtown Willy said:
need some help here, I've got a Safety Thimble on the way & I just began the disassembly of the synthetic line, but it doesn't look like what I've seen in the videos I watched? I think to get this untied I have to run the entire length of the line through that lower opening but I can't get the line off the drum, it's jammed in there so tight I'd have to pull it out with pliers but I don't want to do that & damage it.

Couple questions, are people just cutting off this last section & starting fresh or is there another way to disassemble this and preserve the entire length of the line?

Also, is this kind of knot below necessary for this line or can I do the other type that just goes into the center of the line & gets buried a few fid lengths down?

As of yesterday, I've somehow managed to roam this planet for 53+ years literally without once ever hearing the word fid, now I've used it in a sentence and will own one all in 2 days :oops:, fuckin Jeep

View attachment 106337
Click to expand...
Don't worry about cutting a little length off. Seldom is the rope ever fully out and the less rope on the winch, the harder it can pull. I just cut maybe 15' off mine to get rid of an especially frayed section at the very front.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Don't worry about cutting a little length off. Seldom is the rope ever fully out and the less rope on the winch, the harder it can pull. I just cut maybe 15' off mine to get rid of an especially frayed section at the very front.
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that's good to know, because after sweating over this thing for about an hour and a half unable to get the fid to move forward I became convinced that there was a concrete wall somewhere in that line that was impenetrable & I got so frustrated I lopped off another foot & a half & started over. As soon as I did that it slid right through, not sure what was going on but it was driving me nuts.

On a semi-related question, is stitching it together with dental floss or some other way a necessary step in this operation or will the thing stay together as-is?

One last question, I went with the advice on the video & stuffed 16 inches in there, but it came out more like 14, is that enough or should I re-do it?
 
StG58 said:
OK, here we go. I'm going to try and get the splicing instructions for synthetic winch line from the Samson Rope site on here.

OK, that worked, but they are in PDF format and don't display in-line. You'll also need to have a splicing kit or several components and tools to properly splice 12 strand synthetic line. Something along the lines of this kit: http://www.winchline.com/viking-rope-repair-kit/
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I just ordered a TRE Safety Thimble, which means I've got to confront the task of removing the thimble and hook that came on the winch, and replacing them with the TRE thimble.

I threw together this kit to do the job and then live in my recovery gear bag for emergencies. I plan to print and laminate the instructions you've provided and keep them with the recovery gear too.

I spent about $25 on the individual components. Not much cheaper than the Viking kit, but if you already have most of the stuff, it would be a lot less. (I now have 11 more tool pouches, 11 more black Sharpies, and 4 more rolls of tape, all of which will go to good use in the garage.)

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I marked the FIDs with the size of rope for which they are intended and the necessary FID length (7.8" for 3/8 line, for example) since these are not a full FID length. I can conservatively estimate the needed lengths using the my outstretched hand; from thumb tip to pinkie tip is about 9 inches.
 
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