Strange electrical problem on 2006 TJ 4.0

[mike_b]

I have a 2006 TJ 6cylinder, and I have a weird electrical issue.

Started in summer. I had several occasions where I parked the car over night after driving it, and a few days later the battery was empty (no start). Battery is from 2022. I noticed that the battery gauge was somewhere below 14V when driving. I also measured the voltage with a meter, which was low) and also the parasitic drain, which turned out to be around 60 mA, which seems to be normal,, so I put in a new alternator. That fixed the problem (or so I thought). The other day I again parked the car, and the battery was empty a few days later. I also noticed something weird. When I opened the door, typically the odometer lights up and shows me the mileage. In that case it stayed dark, but both the rpm gauge and the speedometer were swinging wildly (and in parallel) from zero to the end of range. I didn't think much of that, charged the battery and drove the car for a while. Next day was fine. But then I didn't use the car for a day, and the following day I was greeted again by crazy RPM and speedometer (and no start).

Battery? It's just over 3 years old, but I have had multiple other issues with Duracell batteries (in a different car).

Any suggestions? Anybody with advice for Duracell batteries or if to avoid them?

Thanks.

 

[Chris]

I have a 2006 TJ 6cylinder, and I have a weird electrical issue.

Started in summer. I had several occasions where I parked the car over night after driving it, and a few days later the battery was empty (no start). Battery is from 2022. I noticed that the battery gauge was somewhere below 14V when driving. I also measured the voltage with a meter, which was low) and also the parasitic drain, which turned out to be around 60 mA, which seems to be normal,, so I put in a new alternator. That fixed the problem (or so I thought). The other day I again parked the car, and the battery was empty a few days later. I also noticed something weird. When I opened the door, typically the odometer lights up and shows me the mileage. In that case it stayed dark, but both the rpm gauge and the speedometer were swinging wildly (and in parallel) from zero to the end of range. I didn't think much of that, charged the battery and drove the car for a while. Next day was fine. But then I didn't use the car for a day, and the following day I was greeted again by crazy RPM and speedometer (and no start).

Battery? It's just over 3 years old, but I have had multiple other issues with Duracell batteries (in a different car).

Any suggestions? Anybody with advice for Duracell batteries or if to avoid them?

Thanks.

Even though your battery is relatively new, it's definitely worth double-checking its condition. Batteries can sometimes fail prematurely, especially if they have been subjected to deep discharges. You might want to have it tested at a local auto parts store to rule out any defects. That's where I'd start.

In addition, electrical gremlins are often linked to poor grounds. Check all the ground connections, especially between the engine and the battery, as well as any ground points on the body. A loose or corroded connection can cause various electrical issues.

The erratic behavior of your gauges when you open the door could also suggest a problem with the ignition switch. It may be worth inspecting wiring for damage or corrosion.

Duracell Batteries are no different than any other battery. There's something like 5 or 6 manufactures of automotive batteries in the world. All batteries come from one of those manufacturers and then the company simply slaps a sticker on it for a brand (i.e. Duracell).

 

[MRChiefE7]

You may the same problem that I have. If I do not make sure that the key is at the OFF position the radio may come back on after closing the door and drain the battery.

 

[AndyG]

I’d ask Mark at @Wranglerfix if he has seen this -

 

[TheBoogieman]

Mine did that when my multifunction switch was bad and making my fog lights come on randomly. I got a new battery and alternator out of the deal.

 

[LJBean]

I've experienced a similar event with my LJ. The wildly swinging gauges kind of freaked me out. I was hoping I didn't have some random short to hunt for. First thing I did was install a new battery and the problem was fixed.

It may just be me, but my last 2 or 3 lead-acid batteries lasted right at about 3 years then stopped holding charge. I went with an Odyssey Extreme AGM earlier this year - hopefully I'll get a lot more than 3 years for that money!

 

[mike_b]

Happened again. Charged the battery and hooked up an ampere-meter between the + battery pole and the battery connector. I thought maybe I can pin down what the problem is. Here is what I saw:

before doing anything: 0.00 A
turning key into the accessory position (backwards): radio turns on, about 0.5 A
turning radio off: current goes down to 0.00 A
Tried the same with turning the key to the off position: Ended up with 0.00 A. Looks like the Radio is not the problem.
turning on ignition: a 10A spike but then stabilizes at around 4A (lights on dashboard on, radio on, etc.)
Turning ignition off and remove key: current draws down to about 0.2 A.

this is where it gets weird.

The 0.2 stays on for about 10 minutes. I have tried a bunch of things to identify what the cause of the power draw could be but could not find anything.
After about 9 1/2 to 10 minutes: Current draw drops to 0.00 A

I am curious what that draw could be, and if that is something that may turn on again after a while (I did not check that), but by itself, a 10-minute draw of 200 mA will not drain the battery significantly in a few days.

So, if anybody has an idea what that current draw could be, let me know.

My next step: Take the battery to be tested. Will report back here.

Quick question: How do I contact @Wranglerfix?

 

[OldBuzzard]

Quick question: How do I contact @Wranglerfix?

You just did, Mark will answer here (maybe after the holiday).

Or look here: https://wranglerfix.com/contact/

 

[dbbd1]

Sounds like a memory circuit. For what, I don't know.

 

[mike_b]

I just took the Battery to a Battey store and they told me that the Battery had lost about 40% of its capacity. I bought a new battery. Will report back here if that fixed the problem.

Quick note: This is the 3rd Duracell battery that died just after the warranty period (3 different cars). I am quite disappointed with them ....

 

[TurboTJ]

Mine did that when my multifunction switch was bad and making my fog lights come on randomly. I got a new battery and alternator out of the deal.

This^^^^^^. This just happened to me. A new multifunction switch ($42) solved the problem.

 

[TheBoogieman]

This is the 3rd Duracell battery that died just after the warranty period (3 different cars). I am quite disappointed with them ....

I usually get 6-8 years out of my "quality" Walmart batteries. $109.