anyone have suggestion for how to affix a new bolt when the hole from the old bolt is warped and stretched out? maybe with Loc Tite tape or something? Or I guess I could weld in a new pin
Sway bar disconnect pin is missing
- Thread starter theskyking123
- Start date
thanks for the info, but call who? I still don't know the brand of the kit, my jeep came with the kit installed already and no info on it.
This IMO is an overengineered, expensive, and inferior design. You have to fiddle fart around to get the holes to line up for the lockpin if the either the holder or the coupler pin gets rotated from vibration.
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This kit has the lockpin fastened to the axle and does not move. The swaybar link is disconnected and through the large opening gets pinned to a post. Quick and no adjusting necessary.
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good info! what is the name or link to the second kit that you liked better?
this may be a dumb idea but for this weekends trails I may just use the pin on the side that has a pin and on the other side use some rope to tie up the linkage and sway bar to try to take some of the weight / pressure off that side. bad idea?
It's Rough Country. Some people don't like the company, but I like their QD sway bar links.
This IMO is an overengineered, expensive, and inferior design. You have to fiddle fart around to get the holes to line up for the lockpin if the either the holder or the coupler pin gets rotated from vibration.
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All the JKS stuff gets tightened. Nothing rattles around or moves.
The other one you are describing is exactly how the JKS kit works.
Picher is a ghost town and former city in Ottawa County, northeastern Oklahoma.
Thank the lord he didn't ask for a Catcher...........
Post a pic of the pin you still have on the frame and the links. Was guessing it was JKS.
This is JKS.
That pin looks nothing like the JKS one so don't expect one to fit. The hole's threads look eroded from rust, but the hole does not look stretched out. If you're dead set on repairing this you're going to need a tap. You can get cheap tap and die sets from Harbor Fright and they will be extremely useful in the future. I personally wouldn't buy a pin. I would make one from a partially threaded bolt by cutting the head off and drilling the cotter pin hole. Of course you need to rethread the hole to match the bolt's thread. If you don't want to mess with this repair, you can do what other's have said and keep the QD link secured with a small bungee.
This was my exact suggestion. There is no pressure when the links are disconnected so one side is all you need. You can Velcro or bungee the other side if you want but it won’t go anywhere if one side is secured.
thanks, yeah that was my feeling too, if this system supports thousands of pounds of "sway" inertia during highway driving, surely 50% of the system can support the weight of the tiny bar when not in use. seems logical.
If you still want to fix it (like before), you should be able to fish a nut & washer inside the frame through the larger hole.
Another option would be a nutsert.
Do you understand the difference between a connected swaybar (to the axle) and an unconnected swaybar on the highway? I don't think you do.
There's no way I would drive on the highway with an unconnected swaybar.
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