We are around a large number of them. The issues are consistent and 100%.
Tailgate loose even with Exogate
- Thread starter freedom_in_4low
- Start date
fourpointzero
TJ Addict
I know we're talking the TJ here, but I was considering this a solution for my JK. Ive deleted spares on both my Jeeps at this point.
Guess the real solution for a larger tire on a trail Jeep would have to be a bumper mounted swing-out or similar / alt version sans the OE tailgate.
Guess the real solution for a larger tire on a trail Jeep would have to be a bumper mounted swing-out or similar / alt version sans the OE tailgate.
Time, miles and usage need to be considered in people's ravings. I saw what my ExoGate was doing after about 10-15k miles. Then I added the little support shelf shown a few posts above. Once I get the corner armor done I intend to add a second latch like Blaine is describing.
Regardless, I'll take the ExoGate over my old swing away carrier any day. I'm also willing and able to make things work better than they do out of the box.
It's loads better than it was without the weatherstrip but still moves around more than i'd ike while driving, and I haven't even wheeled it yet; that's just small event harshness over road imperfections. I've adjusted my closing technique so that I have a flat palm against the gate, right over the hinge, and maintain force and contact until it latches, rather than just giving it a shove and letting inertia take care of the rest.
I do need to adjust the latch a bit more as it's at or slightly above flush, instead of slightly below as Blaine suggests. I expect a bit more improvement there, and maybe some more with some softer shocks but I also expect once I figure out what I'm doing with my rear bumper I'll probably end up with a support shelf like what jjvw has. I could use an excuse to weld something anyway, all I've done in 18 months is fill the brake pad divots in my steering knuckles, tack my skid plate nutserts and make a 3/8-10mm shift knob adapter that I ended up tossing in the trash for being too long.
I like the second latch idea too but I'll have to improve my fab skills or get creative on how to do it within my skills and not end up ruining my tub and tailgate.
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Yeah I figured it was toast. It took less than a year of wheeling for that crack to develop even though I had everything tight but maybe I didn't or it was too tight. This is a lower mileage lj, 83k on it, that I picked up last year before prices went crazy but I don't know if there was any stress on the gate before I owned it. If it's cracking the outer sheet metal I would image whatever reinforcement underneath that its spot welded to is cracked already. So welding that crack up probably wouldn't be a long term fix.
I was going to say it could really use a second lower striker bolt or a latch at the bottom of the gate. Would need another reinforcement plate behind whatever lower latch set up that was used. Also might need a firmer tailgate gasket setup.
I dont know how those bumpers with a swing out and no latch hold up long term without cracking the bumper or welds. Ones like UCF, JCR and the JK factory Rubicon bumper where you can add a swing out. They tie into the tailgate and swing out with the gate.
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So might have gotten lucky with the inner support or brace still being in good shape? Photos for anyone curious of the cracking on the tailgate sheet metal but the inner support structure still looks intact. I pulled the handle to get a better look inside. The brace is OK and just that one spot weld had failed. I am thinking of welding this crack and spot weld back up. But also fixing the issue causing it.
I adjusted the wheel a bit tighter to the gate after looking at jjvw's build thread which I have read through a few times. The snubber adjustment issue is the lower tub mounted snubber and adjusting that to the proper length. Too long and it bows the tailgate out shown in the pics attached. I still need to adjust the lower one some but getting closer. Finicky is an understatement...
what's the best way to set the bottom snubber for the correct preload? I figure there must be a trick like to set it where it makes contact with the tire when the gate is "x" from flush with the tub. Or something along those lines.
Just commenting to follow along.
When it is loose enough to not tear up the gate from over extension and tight enough to not tear up the gate by letting it move too much.
My photos were trying to help with that because I was wondering the same. I think the lower snubber in my photos above is out too far. It was bowing/twisting the tailgate some and contacting the tire with out an 1.5" left before the gate fully closed. A lot of trial and error and I can still make the tire and gate move if I want to. It really needs another latch like mrblaine mentioned before. I also thought about a small rubber stopper or something in the bottom corner of the tub lip to try and support the lower corner of the tailgate. That may just bend the tailgate though.
It seems very dependent on the individual jeep, seal condition, snubbers and tire size. I am honestly thinking about ditching the morryde set up and leaving my tire on the trailer.
It seems very dependent on the individual jeep, seal condition, snubbers and tire size. I am honestly thinking about ditching the morryde set up and leaving my tire on the trailer.
I don't think we have to give up on them. Toss one of these on there with an adjustable stop on the inside lower corner below the latch and I think that solves the problem very easily. Might have to run a version of a "tramp stamp" on the valance to spread the load out but it should easily fix the problem.
I hear you. I don't want to damage the gate anymore than I already have since the internal brace is still intact. You can get those hold down clamps with rubber stops on them too.
If you have corner armor already the extra latch is very easy.
One issue that would still exist is how will the gate hold up to slamming it with just a little force? I took of video of it closing to run slow mo. The 35 moves the gate quite a bit if you have to close it with any kind of force.
I also have to decide if I want to keep drilling holes in this low mileage clean lj lol.
Yeah I was hoping for a way to tell without waiting to see if, and in which way, I destroyed the gate.
My gate is flush with tub at the latch, but sticking out along the bottom edge. I trimmed the snubber by the amount the gate was above flush and it made zero difference in how the gate landed, so I thought I'd check on some others strategy before I trimmed it down too far. New gasket, so I'll need to remove the snubber to see if that's even what's holding it out, and not the weather strip. The bottom edge doesn't appear bowed at all, but since it's flush up high and not down low its more like it's twisted due to having a gasket along the bottom but not the top.
I also notice the striker looks goofy. As tight as it goes puts the gate flush with tub, and no more. The striker points slightly rearward, which I don't remember being the case on my TJ, and since the latch hits near the end of the striker, it puts the gate looser than it would if the striker was parallel to the back edge of the tub.
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That is a normal strike pin angle.Yeah I was hoping for a way to tell without waiting to see if, and in which way, I destroyed the gate.
My gate is flush with tub at the latch, but sticking out along the bottom edge. I trimmed the snubber by the amount the gate was above flush and it made zero difference in how the gate landed, so I thought I'd check on some others strategy before I trimmed it down too far. New gasket, so I'll need to remove the snubber to see if that's even what's holding it out, and not the weather strip. The bottom edge doesn't appear bowed at all, but since it's flush up high and not down low its more like it's twisted due to having a gasket along the bottom but not the top.
I also notice the striker looks goofy. As tight as it goes puts the gate flush with tub, and no more. The striker points slightly rearward, which I don't remember being the case on my TJ, and since the latch hits near the end of the striker, it puts the gate looser than it would if the striker was parallel to the back edge of the tub.
View attachment 269516
Thinking about that latch a little more. The tailgate tries to twist outward on the bottom of the gate due to the lower tire snubber. That latch would need to be on the tub pushing the gate closed to work and help fix the gate twisting. Or a compression latch might work to help provide some closing force on the gate. Something like this one maybe. Mounted vertically under the factory latch and mount the catch block on the tj tramp stamp.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1323897689...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1323897689...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
You aren't trying to lock it in place like the upper latch does. All you are trying to do is stop it from moving. With an internal adjustable stop and the outer over center latch set to just be pretty snug, that would stop the movement and really slow down how much the tire tears up the gate.
This is the old static jacking up the rig by the rock rail test bullshit. How much weight something can handle sitting still dramatically decreases when movement kicks in.
That link is to an over center latch designed for doors with gaskets. It doesn't have to clamp down with a lot of force. Like you said, just to keep the movement down. Your first latch pic looks like a toggle clamp.
I am not saying I have the write answer at all.. I was just thinking that setup would help snug the tire up to the factory lower tire snubber. The gate seems to have more movement twisting upward and less so twisting downwards into the tub. I wasn't looking at it necessarily for locking it in place but keeping the gate from twisting upwards if that makes sense.
I understand what your saying about just stopping the movement vs locking the tailgate in place and I very well could be confused as to where you would mount that toggle clamp. On the gate to push against the tub?
Is the gate where you would mount a "tramp stamp" valance reinforcement to spread out the load?
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