Tap in to switched power for aux fuse block

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I plan on adding a fuse block to clean up some of the "creative" wiring I have done over the years.

What is the best, simple way to get ignition-hot power to an aux fuse block?

Power demand would be minimal- some relays, a couple USB outlets, and probably the CB.
 
I took a different approach, I used seperate fused relays. Red hot to each relay comes off a power strip attached to the back of the plate, each relay trigger is off a switch. Power to the strip on the back is off the battery through a large fuse.
12A9E7D8-5385-43CB-AD21-0DD0BA3891E9.jpeg
 
I plan on adding a fuse block to clean up some of the "creative" wiring I have done over the years.

What is the best, simple way to get ignition-hot power to an aux fuse block?

Power demand would be minimal- some relays, a couple USB outlets, and probably the CB.

It is not quite what you are looking for but this is what I did to clean up my wiring mess.

55E0BC40-B442-44D9-B0C9-FD0B2AB82BF8.jpeg
 
I plan on adding a fuse block to clean up some of the "creative" wiring I have done over the years.

What is the best, simple way to get ignition-hot power to an aux fuse block?

Power demand would be minimal- some relays, a couple USB outlets, and probably the CB.
I just spliced a wire onto the accessory terminal at the ignition switch plug to activate a relay at my auxiliary fuse box. For a 2004 the wire is black with a dark green tracer.
DE4868D8-6D75-4161-A1D9-3BB5B255C7E7.jpeg
 
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I am using a power distribution block too, though mine is wired straight to the battery with 2gauge wire and everything running thru it has its own relay. Just need to make sure you turn whatever is on, off.
 
They sell a variety on ebay. This one cost me less than $20. Capable of 100 amps

20200301_171523.jpg
 
Like your fuse block, where might I find one please

Search for terminal block on Amazon. There are many different types. Blue Sea Systems is a name brand that is generally very expensive. The no-name parts seem to be just as good at lower cost.

I used two terminal blocks, one for positive and one for ground returns. Some radios want a fused ground return as well as a fused positive, this to prevent high current devices (like the starter) from finding a ground return through the radio in the event that the normal ground fails. At least I think that is the reason.
 
I plan on adding a fuse block to clean up some of the "creative" wiring I have done over the years.

What is the best, simple way to get ignition-hot power to an aux fuse block?

Power demand would be minimal- some relays, a couple USB outlets, and probably the CB.
I don't think there are any "easy" ways. The best way for circuits under 10-15A is just to tap into the acc circuit that goes to the cigarette lighter and accecory port but you hardly need a aux fuse block for that. You shouldn't be drawing allot of extra current through the ignition switch so you might want a high power relay like a solenoid. I use one of these for my compressor:

solenoid.jpeg

If I wanted to have switched power for a fuse block I'd use on of these and run a wire into the cab tied into the fused acc power to activate the solenoid. This will give you switched high power at the fuse block with any risk of damage to the ignition switch. Personally I just don't see any need for a fuse block on a circuit that is going to be well under the factory acc port current limits. Just wire each thing up from a simple terminal strip and be done with it. A block of 10A fuses powered by a 10A circuit is silly.
 
It is not quite what you are looking for but this is what I did to clean up my wiring mess.

View attachment 152674
This is nice neat clean easy to access, etc. Did you make this set up or purchased it as is ? If purchased, cost ? where from ?

What does a CB radio require for a fuse, or can i hook it into the existing fuse panel behind the glove box into cig lighter or accys ?

In this set up can you assign any amp fuse to plug into any terminal ? or each open terminal plug has an amp value for a specific fuse to be installed ?

Thanks for sharing !


1586988186962.png
 
This is nice neat clean easy to access, etc. Did you make this set up or purchased it as is ? If purchased, cost ? where from ?

What does a CB radio require for a fuse, or can i hook it into the existing fuse panel behind the glove box into cig lighter or accys ?

In this set up can you assign any amp fuse to plug into any terminal ? or each open terminal plug has an amp value for a specific fuse to be installed ?

Thanks for sharing !


View attachment 153060


I’m not who you asked, but think I can help as I’ve been planning mine for quite some time:

What does a CB radio require for a fuse, or can i hook it into the existing fuse panel behind the glove box into cig lighter or accys ?

My CB is under 2A. The power is fairly dirty if you draw off anything but a dedicated fuse block or straight from the battery. That translates to a lot of interference in the radio both transmitting and receiving.

In this set up can you assign any amp fuse to plug into any terminal ? or each open terminal plug has an amp value for a specific fuse to be installed ?

The block itself has a max rating of amperage (for one this size id expect around 100A). However you divide that up across the available terminals is pretty much fine. From what I remember, the biggest fuse I’ve seen for this size is 40A, so that may be an upper bound.

I love this setup, I may have to try to copy the mounting idea when I finally wire mine up. As a brand name to search, check “Blue Sea Fuse Block”. There’s many alternatives as well.
 
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Just so you know you have a lot of good choices out there. I’m running a 7 circuit fuse block. 3 circuits are wired hot and 4 switched. The 3 hot circuits come off the PDC through a 30 amp circuit breaker. Zero connections at the battery make for a clean trouble free install. The 4 switched circuits are powered by a relay that is activated by the wire I spliced into at the ignition switch.
6786889B-0126-4818-A803-18F7B47823F7.jpeg
0647653E-3D28-4330-9BFA-AAE690F81FA3.jpeg
 
This is nice neat clean easy to access, etc. Did you make this set up or purchased it as is ? If purchased, cost ? where from ?

What does a CB radio require for a fuse, or can i hook it into the existing fuse panel behind the glove box into cig lighter or accys ?

In this set up can you assign any amp fuse to plug into any terminal ? or each open terminal plug has an amp value for a specific fuse to be installed ?
Thanks for sharing !
View attachment 153060

The fuse blocks were bought off Amazon. I can’t remember the name but there are tons of them. Blue Sea Systems is a name brand but they are expensive. You can do better.

I mounted them to the top of one of those wrap around mounts for odyssey batteries. Each slot in the terminal block can take whatever size fuse you want. I used two blocks, one for positives and one for ground returns. The blocks are hot all the time. There is no relay.
 
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I should have mentioned that I bought an odyssey battery with both side and top terminals. The winch cables mount to the side terminals and everything else to the top terminals.
 
I don't think there are any "easy" ways. The best way for circuits under 10-15A is just to tap into the acc circuit that goes to the cigarette lighter and accecory port but you hardly need a aux fuse block for that. You shouldn't be drawing allot of extra current through the ignition switch so you might want a high power relay like a solenoid. I use one of these for my compressor:

View attachment 152728
If I wanted to have switched power for a fuse block I'd use on of these and run a wire into the cab tied into the fused acc power to activate the solenoid. This will give you switched high power at the fuse block with any risk of damage to the ignition switch. Personally I just don't see any need for a fuse block on a circuit that is going to be well under the factory acc port current limits. Just wire each thing up from a simple terminal strip and be done with it. A block of 10A fuses powered by a 10A circuit is silly.

Your response answered my question in a round about way.

I think the answer to my question is simpler than I was making it out to be in my head- I don't need a high capacity source to tap in to, I just need a relay activated by any ignition hot circuit.

I think that's the route I'll take to accomplish what I want to do.
 
Your response answered my question in a round about way.

I think the answer to my question is simpler than I was making it out to be in my head- I don't need a high capacity source to tap in to, I just need a relay activated by any ignition hot circuit.

I think that's the route I'll take to accomplish what I want to do.
The easiest way for us to pick up an ignition controlled trigger for the relay that powers up your auxiliary fuse block is to use a quality fuse tap in the instrument cluster power fuse behind the glove box. I wholly dislike cutting into the factory wiring for most reasons since I've seen too many issues when others have done it.
These fuse taps work well. Pay attention to the prongs that go into the fuse block. A lot of them out there are very short and the plastic that is molded around them interferes with how far they are able to be pushed into the fuse slot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I don't use the crappy butt connector they have crimped in place but other than that, never a single issue triggering a relay with them.
I drill a hole in the firewall right above the heater core inlet and outlets after checking it from the inside using the dimples to get my bearings. Wire goes straight out to near the battery which is fairly ideal for keeping the relay and fused supply off the battery close to the battery.
 
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The easiest way for us to pick up an ignition controlled trigger for the relay that powers up your auxiliary fuse block is to use a quality fuse tap in the instrument cluster power fuse behind the glove box. I wholly dislike cutting into the factory wiring for most reasons since I've seen too many issues when others have done it.
These fuse taps work well. Pay attention to the prongs that go into the fuse block. A lot of them out there are very short and the plastic that is molded around them interferes with how far they are able to be pushed into the fuse slot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I don't use the crappy butt connector they have crimped in place but other than that, never a single issue triggering a relay with them.
I drill a hole in the firewall right above the heater core inlet and outlets after checking it from the inside using the dimples to get my bearings. Wire goes straight out to near the battery which is fairly ideal for keeping the relay and fused supply off the battery close to the battery.
Is this fuse tap set up ok for CB hook up ? Is there a chance of static / interference ?
Or should a CB be wired directly to the battery ? Same question i guess for a small front hood or bumper mount 24” light bar ?
 
Is this fuse tap set up ok for CB hook up ? Is there a chance of static / interference ?
Or should a CB be wired directly to the battery ? Same question i guess for a small front hood or bumper mount 24” light bar ?
I don't fuck with CB hookups, I only use that fuse tap to trigger a relay for ignition controlled accessories.
 
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The easiest way for us to pick up an ignition controlled trigger for the relay that powers up your auxiliary fuse block is to use a quality fuse tap in the instrument cluster power fuse behind the glove box. I wholly dislike cutting into the factory wiring for most reasons since I've seen too many issues when others have done it.
These fuse taps work well. Pay attention to the prongs that go into the fuse block. A lot of them out there are very short and the plastic that is molded around them interferes with how far they are able to be pushed into the fuse slot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I don't use the crappy butt connector they have crimped in place but other than that, never a single issue triggering a relay with them.
I drill a hole in the firewall right above the heater core inlet and outlets after checking it from the inside using the dimples to get my bearings. Wire goes straight out to near the battery which is fairly ideal for keeping the relay and fused supply off the battery close to the battery.
This is what I was thinking. Just have that tap trigger the relay.

If this works out, I'll have plenty of them laying around since eliminating the ones I'm powering a couple small accessories with is the whole point of this exercise.