The Foxtrot Mafia Build

[Dan The Video Man]

Time to start my build thread! This will be a good place for me to gather all my thoughts and plans, document my progress, as well as get input from all you fine folks!

Picked up my 2000 TJ in June last year with 172K mi for $6500 (originally listed for $10K). It was originally sold in AZ and then moved to TN before coming to MI a couple years ago. Light surface rust in some spots on the frame but the inside is smooth. I have the Eastwood internal frame coating sitting on my shelf ready for it, I just haven't made the plans to do it yet.

This was the day I brought it home.

Already installed:
•4" SL (RC I believe)
•TC skid drop spacer
•MT Baja Boss 33x12.5r17 with KMC XD bead locks, 5x5 w/adapters
•Had full steel doors and he also included half doors

The PO had just replaced A LOT of parts:
•Shocks
•Clutch,
•Radiator, hoses,
•AC lines and compressor
•Heater core
•AC evaporator
•Alternator,
•Battery
•Bluetooth Radio

It had DW that was getting worse and the crappy Steinjager track bar was useless and the LCA bushings were toast.

I installed a set of Core4x4 Camp series adjustable LCAs, JKS HD adjustable front track bar, and upgraded to the ZJ steering for the time being. No more DW!

Come winter time, the blower motor and resistor went out. No problem, the PO actually included a brand new, still in the box blower motor and resistor when I bought it. Crisis adverted.

It also had a JCR rear bumper/tire carrier that was heavy as fuck and hanging on by a thread. I took it off, painted and put on the stock rear bumper the PO also included in the sale. Then I installed the MORyde tailgate hinge and reinforcement kit.

I took the side steps off and installed the rocker guard steps that the PO also included with the sale. I painted them before I put them on. The fender flares were bothering me as well. I found a set of pocket flares for really cheap and threw them on there. Did not like how they gave less clearance or the general look of them either.

I also wanted a new soft top with upper door skins. I found a Bestop replace a top on XT brand new, never installed open box deal for $260. Don't mind if I do!

Parts I currently have and am waiting to install include:
•JB SS SYE kit (saving up for the rear DS before I install)
•Savvy TC cable shifter
•Tailgate table with MOLLE panel
•I do still need a set of adjustable rear UCAs if anyone has a set they don't want anymore... Eventually I plan on doing Savvy arms all the way around.
•New windshield frame
Now, for the planned upgrades in no particular order...
•UCF Ultra High Clearance TC skid
•Winch
•New front bumper. mid or stubby with bull bar?
•BL and MML
•Replace the cold air intake that is installed from PO and probably go back to stock system.
•35s
•Big Brake kit
•Currectlync steering
•5.13 gears
•Super 35 rear end (don't know if I want to do Eaton or ARB)
•Front locker (don't know if I want to go selectable or Power Trax no slip)
•On board air compressor
•Replacing foam in all the seats and re-upholstering them

The paint job was done very bad, it's peeling all around and revealing the factory silver paint job underneath. I am planning to pull the tub at some point to blast and repaint everything, sticking with tan. I will be using CARC paint from LVP.

This past weekend on my little wheeling trip, those flares that killed my clearance succumbed to their shortfalls. This is the TJs current state.

Also, this will not be the "Desert Storm Edition" in the future. It will be the "Foxtrot Mafia"


There we go! I am also looking for recommendations and suggestions for what to do with these fenders. Any advice concerning any part of my plans is more than welcome!

 

[JohnF500]

I went with an electronic Eaton locker and very happy. I was planning onboard air like so many others and I like the idea, but for $300 on sale got Milwaukee set with drill, drill/driver, air compressor, two batteries, charger at HD. I can air up 4 tires one at a time, so not the fastest. But I have 3 done in the time it takes others to set up there 4 hoses and air up 4 tires. So not slow. And I can easily move it between the jeeps.

 

[JohnF500]

 

[Feralkid]

•5.13 gears
•Super 35 rear end (don't know if I want to do Eaton or ARB)

Don't put money into a Dana 35, spend a little more and swap it out for a 14 bolt.

 

[Dan The Video Man]

I went with an electronic Eaton locker and very happy. I was planning onboard air like so many others and I like the idea, but for $300 on sale got Milwaukee set with drill, drill/driver, air compressor, two batteries, charger at HD. I can air up 4 tires one at a time, so not the fastest. But I have 3 done in the time it takes others to set up there 4 hoses and air up 4 tires. So not slow. And I can easily move it between the jeeps.

Nice! I'd snag that deal no matter what and definitely good to have!

 

[Dan The Video Man]

Don't put money into a Dana 35, spend a little more and swap it out for a 14 bolt.

How much fab work and welding would go into that? I'm trying not to do a whole bunch of work that requires me to purchase large expensive equipment. Haha

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Don't put money into a Dana 35, spend a little more and swap it out for a 14 bolt.

A 14 bolt for 35's?

 

[Apparition]

A 14 bolt for 35's?

Must have an LS

 

[lBasket]

A 14 bolt for 35's?

My truck has a 14b on 30s. All that LS power

 

[Dan The Video Man]

I am confident in the Super Dana 35's capabilities for this. I won't be going bigger than 35s on this TJ. I plan on building out another TJ/LJ as a dedicated trail rig in the future.

 

[Feralkid]

A 14 bolt for 35's?

I was making the point that pretty much any junkyard axle would be better than a Dana 35 and to not waste money upgrading it.

You can find XJ Chrysler 8.25 axles a dime a dozen at any junkyard. Best option would be a TJ Dana 44 but you'll be paying for it.

The great thing about an XJ 8.25 axle is that you may be spending more to weld up the spring buckets and brackets but you can clock the pinion to exactly where you need it and the shock mounts so they don't get caught on stuff.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I was making the point that pretty much any junkyard axle would be better than a Dana 35 and to not waste money upgrading it.

You can find XJ Chrysler 8.25 axles a dime a dozen at any junkyard. Best option would be a TJ Dana 44 but you'll be paying for it.

Well, no... Dropping a 14 bolt in a rig running 35's would not be a good solution. You would lose a lot of ground clearance, and the 600# weight would certainly not help. Also, a 14 bolt would be a serious amount of fabrication, which the OP has said he wants to avoid.

I would also not drop a Chrysler 8.25 in there. Better off with a Super 35. Finally - the strength difference between a super 35 and a 44 is not much, so it's definitely an appropriate solution - especially if you can't find a 44 for a decent deal.

The OP's plan to do a super 35 is solid. Great strength for 35's, 0 fabrication to install it, and building the super 35 is not a huge task.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I am confident in the Super Dana 35's capabilities for this. I won't be going bigger than 35s on this TJ. I plan on building out another TJ/LJ as a dedicated trail rig in the future.

Well, in that case: Tonz and Fodeez.

 

[Dan The Video Man]

Well, in that case: Tonz and Fodeez.

Definitely for that one!!

 

[Apparition]

I am confident in the Super Dana 35's capabilities for this.

And you are correct

 

[Dan The Video Man]

This past Saturday I decided to install the tailgate table from Hooke that I got for Xmas. It had been sitting in my closet since then. It was also a great reason to get a rivnut tool which was super easy to use. I went with this one from Amazon that many other members here recommended.

Toughest part about this install was getting it in a position where it wasn't on any of the indentations on the tailgate. I slid it over so it was closer to the passenger side of the tailgate and that seemed good for me. I'd have to deal with the third brake light wiring though. I don't usually use these templates but this one I did.

Drilled the holes and installed the rivnuts without any issues then bolted up the table.

My third brake light wiring was unnecessarily long and I wanted to clean it up, so I trimmed it down and used a cable clamp to keep it place and out of the way.

The table is solid, doesn't rattle or make any noise when I'm doing 70 down the highway and it gives me a place to keep my jumper cables, shovel, straps, tools, etc.

 

[Dan The Video Man]

I picked up a pair of RE adjustable UCAs off the forum last year for a good price and they have been sitting in my garage ever since, so I figured I would swap them out along with the axle side bushings. First I had to clean up my work area because I'm always tired and lazy when I finish a job.

With a clean workspace, I could start! Removing the old arms was a breeze the passenger side was free spinning, I was able to get a set of MOOGs for $20 on Prime day.

Old vs New

PS bushing slid right in but of course it was free spinning just like the old one. I did a crappy spot weld job to hold it place, a very crappy job indeed.

I didn't have a ball joint press and couldn't order one until Monday. The air hammer made a pretty quick job of removing the bushing.

Unfortunately the press kit won't be here until Wednesday so the new bushing on the DS won't go in until then. I am still waiting on a new TPS as well as my body lift kit which should also be here on Wednesday (MML kit arrived on Saturday). I already have Friday off for the 4th and am thinking about taking Wednesday and Thursday off to finish all this up.

 

[Dan The Video Man]

While I'm waiting on parts, I pulled the TC skid to get rid of the drop spacers, yikes.

Luckily, everything is solid and the rust is only surface. None of the bolts stripped or broke and none of the rivnuts are bad, which is nice. I had a full set of rivnuts from BMB ready just in case since I needed shorter bolts either way.

Getting the chunks off the skid and the frame before I spray with some rust reformer. Good enough is the name of the game for the skid (not the frame) since I will be going to a high clearance skid in the future.

 

[Dan The Video Man]

Got the bottom of the frame rails cleaned up. Still need to do a little smoothing out before I hit it with paint, but not bad for today!

 

[Dan The Video Man]

Yesterday I installed the Savvy Cable Shifter.

The toughest part of this as many others can probably attest to was getting the cable adjusted to properly shift through all the ranges. It still feels like 4L isn't quite getting there, even though my 4WD light in the dash is going on. It just seems like the shifter handle isn't quite locking into place and I don't know how much more length I have in terms of shortening it up. I might have a few threads left at the body mount bracket to get it there.

Went through a lot of folks write ups here on this install to get some best practices. Cutting your 15/16 down to a stubby, using a crows foot and dropping the front DS. I ended up doing it with the DS still hooked up and used a shorter crescent wrench for the cable adjustment with no real issues.

Yesterday my new TPS arrived as well as my ball joint press kit so I'll be able to get the TPS replaced today and my new DS UCA axle bushing finally installed today.