The Red Dragon Build
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The next thing to figure out was the Antirock axle attachment brackets and my PSC ram mount.
I fabbed a passenger side Antirock bracket from 1/4" plate to sit on top of the trackbar bracket.
A second bracket was fabbed for the driver side Antirock attachment to the axle. This one was first made from 1/4" and ultimately 3/8" plate.
As mentioned above, the 2.0" offset tierod forging created space for my PSC ram. This space was still very tight and required a custom fabbed mount.
I had several different rams from various projects and I ultimately settled on the one that came with my BMB steering kit. The ram was attached to the tierod with a double shear mount from TMR.
I fabbed a passenger side Antirock bracket from 1/4" plate to sit on top of the trackbar bracket.
A second bracket was fabbed for the driver side Antirock attachment to the axle. This one was first made from 1/4" and ultimately 3/8" plate.
As mentioned above, the 2.0" offset tierod forging created space for my PSC ram. This space was still very tight and required a custom fabbed mount.
I had several different rams from various projects and I ultimately settled on the one that came with my BMB steering kit. The ram was attached to the tierod with a double shear mount from TMR.
The front tires were bolted on and the suspension cycled. The GenRight Hi-Fenders and forward stretch created ample space for the 37's I was going to run.
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Due to the addition of the Savvy four link in the rear, I needed to change the current exhaust setup. My initial plan was the reuse the Pypes muffler from my first build. It was immediately apparent the muffler would be too large to work well. My criteria was something that was not overly loud or obnoxious. I knew there would be extensive fab with whatever option I decided. I started looking at different compact muffler options and found a good solution.
It was the Street Max SM65110 Shortie Oval Muffler (2.5 Offset/Center) connected to an AERO Exhaust TR254 2.5" Stainless Steel Resonator.
I then used a combination of new 2.5" mandrel bent pipe, pie cuts, turbo flange connectors, and the Pypes tail section from my first build.
The final piece was a stainless hanger section I turned on the lathe, bent, and welded to the new tailpipe section. My factory frame hanger was also cut apart, flipped over, and welded back together.
After putting some miles on this exhaust I will say it has a nice tone, and is not overly loud. There is a nice burble under decel, but it doesn't drone. It also tucks up pretty nice as to not get hung up on rocks.
It was the Street Max SM65110 Shortie Oval Muffler (2.5 Offset/Center) connected to an AERO Exhaust TR254 2.5" Stainless Steel Resonator.
I then used a combination of new 2.5" mandrel bent pipe, pie cuts, turbo flange connectors, and the Pypes tail section from my first build.
The final piece was a stainless hanger section I turned on the lathe, bent, and welded to the new tailpipe section. My factory frame hanger was also cut apart, flipped over, and welded back together.
After putting some miles on this exhaust I will say it has a nice tone, and is not overly loud. There is a nice burble under decel, but it doesn't drone. It also tucks up pretty nice as to not get hung up on rocks.
At some point everything was blown back off the Jeep and either painted (VHT Roll Bar and Chassis satin black) or sent off to powder coat. Looking at my remaining pictures I noticed the closer I got to my June deadline, the fewer pictures there were. I was obviously feeling the time crunch.
If I recall correctly, I got my armor back from powder a week before we left for Moab. There was still a laundry list of things to complete, including an air intake, battery tray, wiring/Switch Pro, lighting, OBA component relocation, fluids and brake bleeding (among others). This was in addition to mounting all the armor for the final time. I fought up until about an hour before we left for Moab. I ultimately admitted failure, closed the shop, and left the Jeep for another day.
All though temporarily defeated, I had a great time in Moab. I was loaned a well built one ton TJ for part of the trip and rode passenger the rest.
This was honestly a well needed break from my build.
If I recall correctly, I got my armor back from powder a week before we left for Moab. There was still a laundry list of things to complete, including an air intake, battery tray, wiring/Switch Pro, lighting, OBA component relocation, fluids and brake bleeding (among others). This was in addition to mounting all the armor for the final time. I fought up until about an hour before we left for Moab. I ultimately admitted failure, closed the shop, and left the Jeep for another day.
All though temporarily defeated, I had a great time in Moab. I was loaned a well built one ton TJ for part of the trip and rode passenger the rest.
This was honestly a well needed break from my build.
Absolutely awesome build. I’m getting ready to start a similar build with JK axles. Quick question on your frame side track bar bracket, as when I first saw the bracket you posted, I envisioned you mounting it flipped around allowing for a longer track bar. Did you try that and did it not play nice with other components?
Thank you! Happy to help with anything I can.
To clarify your question, flipped with the "bump" on the inside of the frame? Like this?
To clarify your question, flipped with the "bump" on the inside of the frame? Like this?
Yes sir, the straight edge of the bracket with the sandwich plate flush with the outside of the frame. Looks like maybe an inch, inch and a half of length could be gained. I don’t have my axle under the jeep yet but I’ve been measuring quite a bit and playing with the arcs of different length bars mathematically to try and reduce bump steer as much as possible and the name of the game seems to be get as long of a track bar as possible that will package. Like you though, I plan to build it once the axle is in there and will end up with what works. Just theorizing right now, so wondering if you tried that and ran into packaging issues.
Edit to your edit, yes, exactly.
That was my initial intent and I believe it was about an 1" difference. I remember the upward movement of the trackbar was going to hit the arch of the bracket much sooner, but I can't remember if it also conflicted with my steering or truss. I was getting ready to trim the arch of the brace out but tried the mount in reverse orientation on the frame before I did. It dropped in perfectly. I remember saying screw it and went with where it fit better at that point.
I could've probably made the OTK bracket fit even wider (towards the inner C) with a redesign or done a piece of DOM welded directly on the C. Everything came to together well, so I went with it.
As it sits right now, my trackbar is 35" COB to COB.
I have another Poly frame bracket around here somewhere. I'll hold it up and take a picture for you.
I could've probably made the OTK bracket fit even wider (towards the inner C) with a redesign or done a piece of DOM welded directly on the C. Everything came to together well, so I went with it.
As it sits right now, my trackbar is 35" COB to COB.
I have another Poly frame bracket around here somewhere. I'll hold it up and take a picture for you.
Awesome, thanks for the explanation, they have to fit where they fit and if it works it works!
So far I’m planning to cut my own out of 3/16” plate after I’m sure many cardboard templates. Reading your build thread you’ve played out a ton of ideas that have been going through my head and you took a VERY similar approach to what I’ve been thinking and the timing is uncanny. I have one more wheeling trip I want to do before I tear it apart again. Also, thanks for doing a postfacto build thread, the anticipation for your further progress has been short lived!
I went back a forth so many times on the execution of the trackbar. So far I have been happy with the end result and am not sure if the inch or two on either side would've made any sort of notable difference. Maybe I'm missing out
One of the reasons I used the axle side OTK bracket is it gave me a solid place for for my ram to attach. I don't think I could've gone much wider or I would've run into draglink clearance issues.
I would like to check out your LS swap. I am thinking that might be the direction I go with my LJ build.
I truly hope this thread can help you (or someone) tackle this approach. I tried to think through everything I was wanting to do and execute it in a clean and functional fashion. I'm sure I missed something or in hindsight will figure out my execution was off.
I went back a forth so many times on the execution of the trackbar. So far I have been happy with the end result and am not sure if the inch or two on either side would've made any sort of notable difference. Maybe I'm missing out
One of the reasons I used the axle side OTK bracket is it gave me a solid place for for my ram to attach. I don't think I could've gone much wider or I would've run into draglink clearance issues.
I would like to check out your LS swap. I am thinking that might be the direction I go with my LJ build.
I truly hope this thread can help you (or someone) tackle this approach. I tried to think through everything I was wanting to do and execute it in a clean and functional fashion. I'm sure I missed something or in hindsight will figure out my execution was off.
I think you nailed it. The other thing is even if you did have bump steer, the ram probably masks a lot of it. With OTK your drag link and track bar are also probably pretty close to horizontal at ride height, which will also help. At some point you’re chasing crap that doesn’t really matter in practice and good enough is good enough.
The bracket I’ve been looking at is the Artec JK rear bracket to use in the front. Only question would be if it mounts far enough in front of the tube to clear the spring perch. Then I’d have multiple holes to try out and once I find one that works, lob off the rest above it. Also looks like it’d be fairly easy to incorporate a ram mount into.
Where in Wyoming are you at? I’m only about 30 minutes south of Cheyenne. We’ll definitely have to meet up sometime wheeling and to check everything out.
That bracket looks very similar to the OTK one. It just has a little bit more vertical adjustment. You could always add vertical height to the OTK one, I know it clears the JK perch But that would create an issue with the location of the Antirock mount. There's that damn snowball again.
That is one reason I stopped messing around with the trackbar. It all lined up pretty nicely.
But that would create an issue with the location of the Antirock mount. There's that damn snowball again.That is one reason I stopped messing around with the trackbar. It all lined up pretty nicely.
As always, Moab was a blast! When we returned I had to get back into work mode. My build was getting close, but now it was a lot of finish work tasks.
My initial plan was to paint my grille, part of the hood, and the windshield frame. I came to the realization I was losing time on wheeling season and decided paint could be a problem for another day.
The armor and body work was assembled for the last time. The change to all Phillips hardware really looked good against the fresh Flame Red powder coat, I was happy I took the time to make this change.
The armor and body work was assembled for the last time. The change to all Phillips hardware really looked good against the fresh Flame Red powder coat, I was happy I took the time to make this change.
The front fenders and inner fenders...
It was worth the work to get rid of the hex head bolts and weld and move the fender mounting holes.
The PEM nuts that were pressed into the inner fender cleaned up the look from outside the Jeep. I used 1/4-20 truss head Phillips screws for the remaining hardware that was visible from outside the Jeep.
It was worth the work to get rid of the hex head bolts and weld and move the fender mounting holes.
The PEM nuts that were pressed into the inner fender cleaned up the look from outside the Jeep. I used 1/4-20 truss head Phillips screws for the remaining hardware that was visible from outside the Jeep.
Due to the GenRight Hi-Fenders, I needed to move various underhood components around. I also had to find room for my OBA components, figure out an air intake, and decide what battery tray I was going to use.
The location of my OBA tank limited my ability to go with either the Spectre filter housing or a Windstar filter housing. I knew I did not want to run an open element. My initial plan was to chop the bottom out of the factory air box, I found another solution that worked well for my application. I was also able to tie my York into my intake so it was filtered by my new filter housing.
The BMC filter housing was adapted with various adapters, elbows, clamps, and silicone sleeves. I also added an Outerwears filter screen to the housing opening. (I'll add the actual parts when I get a chance to look them back up)
The two battery tray options I had were the GenRight tray or the (newly redesigned) Nemesis Industries tray. Placing both under the hood, the height and location of the Nemesis tray allowed me for more room. It also allowed me an attachment point for part of my Switch-Pros. I chopped the inner fender brace off the Nemesis tray and bolted it up to the firewall.
With the space created by the battery tray and the filter housing, I was able to RivNut my fuse box to the inner fender. I also attached my Switch-Pro brain box (with RivNuts) to the fuse box bracket.
I fabricated an aluminum bracket to attach to the top of the battery hold down. This gave me a place to put my Switch-Pro power and ground terminal connections.
The factory driver fender support was modified to place my OBA filters/regulators and locker manifold/solenoids out of the way. This cleared room for other items needing to mount to the inner fender (evap canister, a washer bottle, and horn). This also allowed me to keep the factory overflow tank attached to the radiator shroud.
Apparently I did not take a picture when I was fabricating the new OBA relocation bracket. Hopefully the below photos gives the general idea. I cut the firewall side of the fender support bracket vertically and welded a flat piece of plate to it. I laid out my OBA components and installed RivNuts to attach them to the piece of plate. The fender support was bolted back on the firewall.
The OBA components tucked nicely out of the way in the space between the inner fender and below the brake MC/Booster.
The location of my OBA tank limited my ability to go with either the Spectre filter housing or a Windstar filter housing. I knew I did not want to run an open element. My initial plan was to chop the bottom out of the factory air box, I found another solution that worked well for my application. I was also able to tie my York into my intake so it was filtered by my new filter housing.
The BMC filter housing was adapted with various adapters, elbows, clamps, and silicone sleeves. I also added an Outerwears filter screen to the housing opening. (I'll add the actual parts when I get a chance to look them back up)
The two battery tray options I had were the GenRight tray or the (newly redesigned) Nemesis Industries tray. Placing both under the hood, the height and location of the Nemesis tray allowed me for more room. It also allowed me an attachment point for part of my Switch-Pros. I chopped the inner fender brace off the Nemesis tray and bolted it up to the firewall.
With the space created by the battery tray and the filter housing, I was able to RivNut my fuse box to the inner fender. I also attached my Switch-Pro brain box (with RivNuts) to the fuse box bracket.
I fabricated an aluminum bracket to attach to the top of the battery hold down. This gave me a place to put my Switch-Pro power and ground terminal connections.
The factory driver fender support was modified to place my OBA filters/regulators and locker manifold/solenoids out of the way. This cleared room for other items needing to mount to the inner fender (evap canister, a washer bottle, and horn). This also allowed me to keep the factory overflow tank attached to the radiator shroud.
Apparently I did not take a picture when I was fabricating the new OBA relocation bracket. Hopefully the below photos gives the general idea. I cut the firewall side of the fender support bracket vertically and welded a flat piece of plate to it. I laid out my OBA components and installed RivNuts to attach them to the piece of plate. The fender support was bolted back on the firewall.
The OBA components tucked nicely out of the way in the space between the inner fender and below the brake MC/Booster.
Under hood space issues compounded every time something was added.
In an attempt to reduce the footprint of some of the larger items on the driver side inner fender, I ditched the factory washer tank. A smaller tank was sourced from Chase Bays and installed.
I did not have hood clearance on the inner fender or room next to the brake booster for the PSC reservoir. I decided to mount it to the firewall with a fabbed bracket and RivNuts. Looking at line routing and with respect to the mounting height above the pump, the firewall location was similar, if not slightly improved over the factory PSC brake booster bracket location.
I attached a PSC pressure vent to my evap canister. The aluminum mount on the vent was welded to another piece of alumumin. This was bolted to the RivNuts in the previous location of my air locker manifold/solenoids.
An ARB vent block was attached to my master cylinder, The front and rear diff, and the transfer case were routed to it. The next time my transmission comes out, I will also attached a vent tube to it as well.
Overall, I was happy with how the engine bay turned out with the complication of the Hi-Fenders.
In an attempt to reduce the footprint of some of the larger items on the driver side inner fender, I ditched the factory washer tank. A smaller tank was sourced from Chase Bays and installed.
I did not have hood clearance on the inner fender or room next to the brake booster for the PSC reservoir. I decided to mount it to the firewall with a fabbed bracket and RivNuts. Looking at line routing and with respect to the mounting height above the pump, the firewall location was similar, if not slightly improved over the factory PSC brake booster bracket location.
I attached a PSC pressure vent to my evap canister. The aluminum mount on the vent was welded to another piece of alumumin. This was bolted to the RivNuts in the previous location of my air locker manifold/solenoids.
An ARB vent block was attached to my master cylinder, The front and rear diff, and the transfer case were routed to it. The next time my transmission comes out, I will also attached a vent tube to it as well.
Overall, I was happy with how the engine bay turned out with the complication of the Hi-Fenders.
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