TJ ride quality issue – spacers, mixed shocks, and minimum lift for 33s

[k1n3k]

We can because there are too many fingers

 

[Weasellee]

Hello guys, thanks a lot for taking the time to reply — I really appreciate all the input.
I’m asking very specific questions because I’m trying to avoid wasting time and money on trial and error. Some of you may have already been through a similar setup, so your real-world experience matters to me. My goal is not to go as tall as possible, but to build a Jeep that actually works well in real conditions.
I don’t live near trails or forests, so every off-road trip starts with long highway and secondary road driving, and ride quality is important to me. I want something controlled, compliant and predictable on the road, but still capable on dirt roads and light trails — not a hardcore crawler.
One thing worth mentioning is that I’m not located in the US, and unfortunately all suspension parts cost roughly double here once shipping, taxes and import fees are added, and they also take a long time to arrive. Because of that, experimenting with multiple setups isn’t really an option for me — that’s why I’m trying to get things right the first time and asking questions before spending the money.
Right now, the front suspension barely moves up or down, even at low speeds. Based on how it behaves, I strongly suspect the front springs are already preloaded because of the spacers, which leaves almost no usable uptravel. It feels like the suspension is sitting too high in its travel and is constantly topped out, which would explain why the front end feels so harsh and unresponsive. That’s why I’m wondering if temporarily removing the front spacers would help restore some suspension movement and make the Jeep more drivable until I receive proper springs from the US (shipping usually takes 30–45 days for me).
For reference, I’m running 33” tires at about 24 psi. I’ve already experimented with tire pressure and higher PSI definitely makes things worse, so I don’t think tire pressure is the main issue here.
As for shocks, I’m seriously considering Fox 2.0 IFP shocks. From what I’ve read and from real-world feedback, they seem to be a good compromise for a Jeep that sees both highway miles and dirt roads, which fits my use case well. I’m not trying to cheap out on the final setup — this would just be a short-term solution so I can keep using the vehicle while waiting for the correct parts.
Any feedback from people who’ve dealt with spacer-induced preload issues, or who are running Fox shocks in a similar daily-driven setup, would be greatly appreciated.

PS. The photo is actually this, but I don’t want my license plate to go around in the internet haha

View attachment 664273

Read the responses. The ride quality is not effected by the springs or spacers, stop. Measure and replace all four shocks. A set of Rancho 5000 will suffice for quite some time but I believe they don’t last long enough with what I do to them. That said I do not have another shock recommendation.

 

[nondem]

Keep in mind that lift, particularly w/the stock control arms changes the geometry of the axle's travel. The axle has less leverage on the spring. It's never going to ride as well as it did w/stock travel.

 

[jjvw]

Keep in mind that lift, particularly w/the stock control arms changes the geometry of the axle's travel. The axle has less leverage on the spring. It's never going to ride as well as it did w/stock travel.

If you are going to fall for long arm marketing again, then you need to suggest an optimal arm angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the angle of both for the best ride quality.

 

[Efthimis Tj]

Read the responses. The ride quality is not effected by the springs or spacers, stop. Measure and replace all four shocks. A set of Rancho 5000 will suffice for quite some time but I believe they don’t last long enough with what I do to them. That said I do not have another shock recommendation.

I get your point, but obviously springs wouldn’t be changed at all if they played no role, everyone would just throw spacers in.
I’m not arguing theory. I’m describing symptoms that strongly suggest the suspension is operating outside of its usable travel. That’s why I asked if anyone here has experienced a similar spacer/shock length issue.
If that’s the case, removing the spacers could at least improve ride quality until the new parts arrive.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll keep it in mind.

 

[nondem]

If you are going to fall for long arm marketing again, then you need to suggest an optimal arm angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the angle of both for the best ride quality.

I'm not advocating for long arms...Just pointing out the obvious. Adjustable "short" arms are what I have.

 

[jjvw]

I get your point, but obviously springs wouldn’t be changed at all if they played no role, everyone would just throw spacers in.
I’m not arguing theory. I’m describing symptoms that strongly suggest the suspension is operating outside of its usable travel. That’s why I asked if anyone here has experienced a similar spacer/shock length issue.
If that’s the case, removing the spacers could at least improve ride quality until the new parts arrive.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll keep it in mind.

Spacers will affect ride quality if they cause the springs to go into solid bind before the shocks reach full compression. Spacers will also affect ride quality if the shocks were not also changed to match the new ride height where the existing shocks now reach full extension and will lift the axle up off the ground.

The reason to avoid coil spacers has everything to do with making the shocks work.

 

[Harold&Cat]

As stated earlier , compare suspension movement with and without the shocks connected . This will give you an idea of how your spring setup is working .

 

[jjvw]

I'm not advocating for long arms...Just pointing out the obvious. Adjustable "short" arms are what I have.

Are you are suggesting that changing the arm length will have an effect on ride quality?

 

[Weasellee]

I get your point, but obviously springs wouldn’t be changed at all if they played no role, everyone would just throw spacers in.

Wrong, longer springs increase travel, spacers don’t.

removing the spacers could at least improve ride quality

Not true. I’ve ran spacers and I’ve ran longer springs.
I’ve also ran shit shocks.
I just swapped my rear RS5000 with a fresh pair of RS9000. I’m not claiming I have the best ride but it’s a shit ton better.
You asked for real world experience.
If you want it to ride much better at a budget as you originally stated then change the shocks.
If you want to remove the spacers then do so.

.


Edit: for legal purposes I must state these are all opinions based on my personal experiences

 

[nondem]

Are you are suggesting that changing the arm length will have an effect on ride quality?

Yes...when you increase the angle of the suspension arm through longer springs or spacers, the horizontal distance between the axle and the arms attachment point on the frame gets shorter because the arm is the same length but a steeper angle. That equals less leverage.

 

[jjvw]

Yes...when you increase the angle of the suspension arm through longer springs or spacers, the horizontal distance between the axle and the arms attachment point on the frame gets shorter because the arm is the same length but a steeper angle. That equals less leverage.

Then if you are going to fall for long arm marketing again, then you need to suggest an optimal arm length and angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the length and angle of both for the best ride quality.

 

[nondem]

Then if you are going to fall for long arm marketing again, then you need to suggest an optimal arm angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the angle of both for the best ride quality.

I appreciate your need for argument...but again, I'm just pointing out the obvious geometry that isn't so obvious.

 

[jjvw]

I appreciate your need for argument...but again, I'm just pointing out the obvious geometry that isn't so obvious.

You are avoiding the requests for elaboration.

Meanwhile, those of us who know better will build around making the shocks work.

 

[nondem]

You are avoiding the questions.

Meanwhile, those of us who know better will build around making the shocks work.

You are projecting...I made no statements advocating for long arms. I just pointed out basic geometry that is lost on a lot of folks.
Shocks are the key to ride quality but springs have to be correct too. If you put springs from a 1 ton truck on the jeep, you can put whatever shocks you want on it and it will still ride harshly.

 

[jjvw]

You are projecting...I made no statements advocating for long arms. I just pointed out basic geometry that is lost on a lot of folks.
Shocks are the key to ride quality but springs have to be correct too. If you put springs from a 1 ton truck on the jeep, you can put whatever shocks you want on it and it will still ride harshly.

I'll make this easier for you.

Then you need to suggest an optimal arm length and angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the length and angle of both for the best ride quality.

 

[nondem]

I'll make this easier for you.

Then you need to suggest an optimal arm length and angle for the best ride quality. And you also need to explain the differences in ride quality between leading arms and trailing arms and how to optimize the length and angle of both for the best ride quality.

Why would I need to explain something orthagonal to anything I actually said?
If you think I'm wrong about how basic geometry works then lets hear it.

Edit: I'm starting to think someone else's post is being attributed to me?

 

[jjvw]

Why would I need to explain something orthagonal to anything I actually said?
If you think I'm wrong about how basic geometry works then lets hear it.

Because those of us who build to make the shocks work for the purposes of affecting the ride quality are not caring about the arm angles on a lifted TJ. This is because the arm angle does not matter within the confines of the typical build for 35" tires, where the rear upper arms often end up being shorter than factory. Your argument comes right out the the long arm marketing playbook.

You are refusing to elaborate because you do not know where to go with any of this.

 

[nondem]

Because those of us who build to make the shocks work for the purposes of affecting the ride quality are not caring about the arm angles on a lifted TJ. This is because the arm angle does not matter within the confines of the typical build for 35" tires, where the rear upper arms often end up being shorter than factory. Your argument comes right out the the long arm marketing playbook.

You are refusing to elaborate because you do not know where to go with any of this.

So, my geometry is correct but the verbiage is the same as some marketers. Sorry...I'll try to do better.

 

[jjvw]

So, my geometry is correct but the verbiage is the same as some marketers. Sorry...I'll try to do better.

Your descriprions of geometry in this particular application are irrelevant because no one is running a tall enough lift on a TJ that put the front leading short arms at steep enough of an angle to have any perceivable effect on the ride quality. This is why I have been requesting you to suggest an optimal length and angle for the arms to provide the optimal ride quality. You won't because you can't because you do not know where to go with your assertion.