TJ Stretch Fuel Tank Options
- Thread starter Rock Toy
- Start date
The COMP20 is actually their OLD style tank - it's $999 currently I believe so they can blow through standing inventory.
Note that both the COMP20 and newer COMP23 requires that the rig be outfitted with outboard shocks and/or coilovers to install.
And also, if you want to install that tank in an 05-06, you need to buy an extra adapter that adds $200 to the price. With shipping and tax, it comes out to around $1,375 for me. I just paid $760 for the MB tank delivered and it defaults to the 05-06 pump. I'll be outboarding my shocks regardless but nice to know that I don't have to. To each their own. I took the $600 savings and threw a York under the hood instead
Yup that's exactly where I'm at with it - I will be running an 05 tank in my 98 during my Hemi swap (I need the 05-06 tank pressure as well as the 05-06 NVLD for emissions compliance), just to make sure everything is working and I can do a few shakedown runs with it. My plan, ideally before summer hits, is to drop the 05 tank and replace with a stretch-compatible tank (in plans for my post-summer stretch).And also, if you want to install that tank in an 05-06, you need to buy an extra adapter that adds $200 to the price. With shipping and tax, it comes out to around $1,375 for me. I just paid $760 for the MB tank delivered and it defaults to the 05-06 pump. I'll be outboarding my shocks regardless but nice to know that I don't have to. To each their own. I took the $600 savings and threw a York under the hood instead
The ~$600 savings will partially fund the stretch!
Pretty sure its the same height. With the extra stretch and the 1/4" skid under the tank, I could care less about extra clearance 
So I have discovered a slight negative about the MB Tank. It is not a plug-and-play for emissions. The tank is designed for off-roan use only and whereas Gentright set up their tanks to plug right into your emissions system, MB did not. But I think that it's possible so I am working on figuring it out. If anyone knows how to do it or can lend me some advice, I would definitely appreciate it. Dropping the stock tank this week to take a look at what I'm dealing with. Based on what I have seen in the below schematic, it seems like it is fairly straightforward and the biggest issue is going to be to find the right sized hoses/adapters to make it all work. Regardless, I'll take some pics and keep a list of parts in case anyone needs this info in the future. I assume that its the same as what you would need to do when running a fuel cell but I can't find anything online that explains it.
the gold fitting is a roll over valve, correct? that could be no. 11.
whats in the other spigot? if it's a check valve it could be no. 8.
and if you put a T in the vent next to the fill nozzle, it can be no. 12.
whats in the other spigot? if it's a check valve it could be no. 8.
and if you put a T in the vent next to the fill nozzle, it can be no. 12.
Yep, the gold is a rollover and I plan on making it 11. The other 8AN fitting is supposed to be a fuel return line I think but I am planning on throwing an in-line rollover on that one as well and then connecting them. I think that your ideas are the same as mine. I'll knock it all out this week and hope for the best.
Sorry to be beating a dead horse here but I was hoping that there might be someone on here that is familiar with the mechanics of the fuel tank system. Below is the tank out of my 2005 TJ. It actually appears to be a lot more simple than I had expected but I have a few questions:
1) The fill vent line is connected to the "rollover valve" on the opposite side of the tank. Is this even necessary on the new tank? I am running an early model TJ fuel filler that has the larger vent line in it that connects to the new tank right next to the fill.
2) There is a line that connects the left vent valve to the right vent valve. Do I really need 2 vent valves or will just one suffice?
3) My new tank has a rollover valve and an empty 8AN fitting on the opposite side (see picture above). Should I be connecting the return line from the EVAP to the rollover valve and then capping the 8AN fitting or do I need to route the return from the EVAP to the 8AN fitting and then vent the tank to a high point off the rollover?
Thanks in advance for any feedback you can give me. I'm just about ready to wrap this up.
1) The fill vent line is connected to the "rollover valve" on the opposite side of the tank. Is this even necessary on the new tank? I am running an early model TJ fuel filler that has the larger vent line in it that connects to the new tank right next to the fill.
2) There is a line that connects the left vent valve to the right vent valve. Do I really need 2 vent valves or will just one suffice?
3) My new tank has a rollover valve and an empty 8AN fitting on the opposite side (see picture above). Should I be connecting the return line from the EVAP to the rollover valve and then capping the 8AN fitting or do I need to route the return from the EVAP to the 8AN fitting and then vent the tank to a high point off the rollover?
Thanks in advance for any feedback you can give me. I'm just about ready to wrap this up.
you need it to allow enough air to escape to accommodate the fuel flow rate into it .
T the vent hose coming from the spigot beside the filler neck. neck 1 down to fit the tube to the filler head line and the other leg doubles back over the tank, at which point another T is added to pick up the gold roll over vent, then the through leg heads off to your E can. cap the 8AN, no open ports.
if the tank can't swallow fuel from a pump because of air lock you may have to get another check valve onto the 8AN fitting and T it into the sys.
or b4 you put the pump in if you can reach and clean that area inside go ahead and cap the 8AN off and buy another bulkhead roll over fitting and tie it in now.
T the vent hose coming from the spigot beside the filler neck. neck 1 down to fit the tube to the filler head line and the other leg doubles back over the tank, at which point another T is added to pick up the gold roll over vent, then the through leg heads off to your E can. cap the 8AN, no open ports.
if the tank can't swallow fuel from a pump because of air lock you may have to get another check valve onto the 8AN fitting and T it into the sys.
or b4 you put the pump in if you can reach and clean that area inside go ahead and cap the 8AN off and buy another bulkhead roll over fitting and tie it in now.
Last edited:
Kind of. If I didn't get it for such a great price, I would definitely be upset and regret the decision,
I think that the tank is well made and will fit well. However, I think that they could have put a little more thought into it and delivered a superior product that could be better than Genright at any price. My suggestions:
- Research the EVAP system a little and include plumbing alternatives in the instructions.
- Provide some instruction for running the tank for different year TJ's. For example, it takes a pump out of an 05-06 TJ, yet you should be using a fuel filler neck out of an earlier TJ. And my pump out of my 2005 TJ went in reverse of the pictures/instructions so I had to modify the fuel line to make it longer.
- Given that so many folks are running body lifts, make the tank mounts adjustable to allow for tucking it up a little higher.
Otherwise, I think that when all is said and done, it will work just fine and the extra headache will be worth it. If I wanted to spend an extra $500-$600, I would have definitely purchased one of the Genright tanks.
Isn't the point of the fill vent line to allow for air to escape as I'm filling the tank? I swapped to an earlier style filler that has the larger vent line. Not enough?
And do I NEED a rollover valve on the fuel return to the tank from the EVAP? Can I simply run the 1/2" line coming from the EVAP straight into the 8AN fitting? If not, then your idea about drilling a hole into the tank and adding a bulkhead rollover fitting sounds like a great idea. I still don't understand why they welded in that fitting with no rollover.
the larger filler neck vent can only help.
you could connect the R/O valve to the evap now.
the -8's not good for a vent without a check valve. it's likely for a return that would still keep the sys sealed and allow no back flow to escape since the other end would be the fuel rail.
you could connect the R/O valve to the evap now.
the -8's not good for a vent without a check valve. it's likely for a return that would still keep the sys sealed and allow no back flow to escape since the other end would be the fuel rail.
Thanks! You the man. I'm going to put it together that way and hope for the best. Appreciate the help.
Yep, got it in and it’s fully operational. No codes. I’ll post up here tomorrow with some pics and an explanation of what I did. Also did some work on the EVAP system to allow me to stretch the axle back. Stay tuned
Similar threads
