Took longer than it should nutsert tool

mrblaine

mrblaine

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Quail Valley, CA
I finally had a few moments to source a thrust bearing to change how frame nutserts are set and stop the thread stripping that happens when the bolt is turned inside the threads to pull up the nutsert and set it.

This tool reverses the setting action by holding the bolt still inside the nutsert and turning a nut down on the bolt against a thrust bearing to pull the nutsert up.
DSC_5539.JPG


Just drop it in the frame hole and hold the bolt with one wrench, turn the nut. No lube or anti-seize needed, very low turning effort, nutsert doesn't try to spin.

DSC_5542.JPG


Sets them very tight with almost zero chance of stripping out the threads on the nutsert.

DSC_5543.JPG
 
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mrblaine said:
I finally had a few moments to source a thrust bearing to change how frame nutserts are set and stop the thread stripping that happens when the bolt is turned inside the threads to pull up the nutsert and set it.

This tool reverses the setting action by holding the bolt still inside the nutsert and turning a nut down on the bolt against a thrust bearing to pull the nutsert up.
View attachment 192867

Just drop it in the frame hole and hold the bolt with one wrench, turn the nut. No lube or anti-seize needed, very low turning effort, nutsert doesn't try to spin.

View attachment 192870

Sets them very tight with almost zero chance of stripping out the threads on the nutsert.

View attachment 192871
Click to expand...
That's a bit classier than what I did recently, but same motivation: I wanted to draw in the nutsert without turning the bolt.
IMG_20200916_202807.jpg

Hold the bolt still, turn the nut down, put something between the nut and nutsert to keep the nutsert from turning.

I used to have a 94 Honda Civic. The revision of their 1.5L motor that was in that thing was notorious for blowing head gaskets. Especially when you applied the right pedal as liberally as I did. After my dad and I (who am I kidding--my dad did all the work) got tired of replacing OEM-style head gaskets we went with a stainless gasket. That required a lot more torque which the head bolts couldn't handle. You just can't put too much torque on a head bolt going into an aluminum block. So we swapped the head bolts for a stud kit which could take tons more torque. Same idea as what we're talking about here: the bolt doesn't turn in a stud kit.
 
thomat65 said:
That's a bit classier than what I did recently, but same motivation: I wanted to draw in the nutsert without turning the bolt.
View attachment 192875
Hold the bolt still, turn the nut down, put something between the nut and nutsert to keep the nutsert from turning.

I used to have a 94 Honda Civic. The revision of their 1.5L motor that was in that thing was notorious for blowing head gaskets. Especially when you applied the right pedal as liberally as I did. After my dad and I (who am I kidding--my dad did all the work) got tired of replacing OEM-style head gaskets we went with a stainless gasket. That required a lot more torque which the head bolts couldn't handle. You just can't put too much torque on a head bolt going into an aluminum block. So we swapped the head bolts for a stud kit which could take tons more torque. Same idea as what we're talking about here: the bolt doesn't turn in a stud kit.
Click to expand...
Stripping the nutsert is my biggest customer issue due to watching YouTube videos where they give a torque spec and then slather the bolt thread with anti-seize which drives the setting torque the threads see much higher.

This way stops all of that shit and the effort to turn the wrench is very low comparatively.
 
@mrblaine
Thanks for that. I’ve never thought of using a thrust bearing that way, I guess because at work we always had a selection of pneumatic nutsert installation tools.

I do however have a 3/4 thrust bearing like you described for easy, on car, wheel stud replacements. Used it quite a bit at work during tire and brake tests.

Never quit learning.
 
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Double thanks, both for the old tool I found in an old thread with your BMB nutserts for the tranny skid and this tip.

Great upgrade to the box (y)
 
After fighting some 3/8" nutserts today, struggling to get them set, chasing threads, etc, I've had it. @mrblaine would the kit you sell on blackmagicbrakes.com work for setting nutserts smaller than the 1/2 variety used for the t-case skid? I have some 3/8 and 5/16 nutserts to set in the near future.
 
Mike_H said:
After fighting some 3/8" nutserts today, struggling to get them set, chasing threads, etc, I've had it. @mrblaine would the kit you sell on blackmagicbrakes.com work for setting nutserts smaller than the 1/2 variety used for the t-case skid? I have some 3/8 and 5/16 nutserts to set in the near future.
Click to expand...

No but I have considered making some to see if folks want them. I'll order in some parts and get that done. Should not take long if you want to hang loose a bit and then be the guinea pig?
 
mrblaine said:
No but I have considered making some to see if folks want them. I'll order in some parts and get that done. Should not take long if you want to hang loose a bit and then be the guinea pig?
Click to expand...
I can be a guinea pig. Probably be mounting some rock sliders to my tub in the next month or so. I've never liked the way the JCR sliders I have mount to the tub (with bolts going through the torque boxes and floor). All that unsupported crush area is a pretty terrible way to do things. I want to increase the number of fasteners and use nutserts in the torque boxes to hold the bottom half of the sliders.
 
Mike_H said:
I can be a guinea pig. Probably be mounting some rock sliders to my tub in the next month or so. I've never liked the way the JCR sliders I have mount to the tub (with bolts going through the torque boxes and floor). All that unsupported crush area is a pretty terrible way to do things. I want to increase the number of fasteners and use nutserts in the torque boxes to hold the bottom half of the sliders.
Click to expand...
I already have a request into my bearing supplier.
 
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Mike_H said:
I can be a guinea pig. Probably be mounting some rock sliders to my tub in the next month or so. I've never liked the way the JCR sliders I have mount to the tub (with bolts going through the torque boxes and floor). All that unsupported crush area is a pretty terrible way to do things. I want to increase the number of fasteners and use nutserts in the torque boxes to hold the bottom half of the sliders.
Click to expand...
Just order one of these and make all the nutserts you want in all sizes without making a tool for each size. Quite handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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sam53 said:
Tool is great, however many times there is not room for a 20+ inch tool
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@mrblaine method is great for the once in a blue moon mechanic fixing a stripped out TCase skid nutsert, but if you do a lot of nutserts of different sizes, you’ll find room for the tool. 😉
 
JMT said:
@mrblaine method is great for the once in a blue moon mechanic fixing a stripped out TCase skid nutsert, but if you do a lot of nutserts of different sizes, you’ll find room for the tool. 😉
Click to expand...
I have at least 10 different ways of setting nutserts. Sometimes it is just easier to grab the simple nut and bolt tool to set one nutsert than to drag out the big tool and swap out the mandrel set. Also the reason why I have so many tools, I leave some of them set up for a specific size so I don't have to swap out mandrels.
 
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JMT said:
Just order one of these and make all the nutserts you want in all sizes without making a tool for each size. Quite handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...

JMT said:
Just order one of these and make all the nutserts you want in all sizes without making a tool for each size. Quite handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
I have a tool for smaller ones (up to 1/4") but my need for doing anything larger is very minimal. I don't feel like have a big giant tool laying around the garage, all the time, for the three of four times I need it. A couple bearings and a couple bolts are much easier to store.
 
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