Toughness personified
- Thread starter mrblaine
- Start date
Blaine, do you mind detailing the advantage/ differences between the 4340 steel tie rod and the "Ultimate" 7075 aluminum version from Savvy?
OP
The Savvy one is larger and runs into more things when you cycle lock to lock. That is the biggest complaint I get when folks have asked me to make these again.
OP
As soon as they get back from heat treat. I put an estimated ship date on the website of a month out or 2/15 as a cushion that we should be able to beat.
OP
I don't know. I should get some pics and put them up of the one I have in my driveway. We installed some PSC stuff on it awhile back. While it was here, I noticed the draglink was flattened out some, lots of rock rash from playing in JV, so we pulled it and added some bend. When the owner picked it up, I asked him why he picked the heat treated tie rod.
He related that he had no idea what I was talking about, he ordered some Currie steering from Savvy many years ago and that's how it came. Well, you done good because you have dragged that stuff over everything, and it is still perfectly straight.
What makes you think I bash it into stuff, there are barely any scratches on it?
Oh, there are lots of scratches on it, they just aren't very deep because it is a much harder material and given that there is rock rash on everything else, it doesn't make sense that you could miss the tie rod.
Thanks Blaine. Here I was anticipating a lengthy explanation on metallurgy or how heat treating modifies the grain structure...
If something is holding up that well in JV then that's really all that matters. No need to overcomplicate the reason why.
OP
The better story is how they came to be. Gerald built a rig and took it to JV on 37's. In short order he bent up his 4130 tube tie rod sleeved with solid. I had some 4130 tube heat treated and built him one. A few trips on that one and it was destroyed. I found some 7068 AL which is stronger or more resistant to bending than 7075 and built him one out of that. He went back out and ruined that one.Thanks Blaine. Here I was anticipating a lengthy explanation on metallurgy or how heat treating modifies the grain structure...
If something is holding up that well in JV then that's really all that matters. No need to overcomplicate the reason why.
Alright fine, I got some 4340 solid, had the ends drilled and tapped and sent it out for heat treat.
He never bent that one and it was still on the rig when he sold it.
Over the years and many iterations of various ways of building a tie rod, we've had the best success with HT 4340.
We've done-
4130 tube sleeved
4130 tube sleeved with solid 7075.
4130 tube sleeved with heat treated 4140.
4130 tube heat treated.
7075 solid.
7068 solid.
4340 heat treated is the only one we have been able to not have problems with.
Didn't the older Savvy Ultimates come with the 4340 tie rod? I have the Ultimate, bought it in spring of 2017. Pretty sure it's not the same as the aluminum version they sell now.
OP
Me either.
But whatever one I have been running the last 5 years has held up to some serious abuse.
Sorry if it’s already been said but is this a limited run? I’m going to get currectlync eventually but need to know if i should order the upgraded tie rod now or will they be a constant product?
There’s a 250$ currectlync for sale near me… don’t know if that’s a good deal on a used steering setup or not….
There’s a 250$ currectlync for sale near me… don’t know if that’s a good deal on a used steering setup or not….
Post #51.
Post in thread 'Toughness personified' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/toughness-personified.58781/post-1042412
That's about what I paid in value of parts traded, so I would say it's a good deal if it's also in decent+ shape
That’s what I paid for mine used. I had to replace the boots on the TR ends, which was about $35. At least the TR ends we’re still in good shape because they’re $85 a piece.