Transmission pan leaking (again)

DanOinAkron

Member
Original poster
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
26
Location
Ohio
I bought a 97 TJ 2.5L auto with 188K miles about a year ago. I’ve been reading many of the post on this site over the last several months as I’ve slowly fixed and replaced various things. I’ve gained tons a great info from this site, so many thanks to all who support it. Now I’m finally posting my first question.

I am now on my fourth attempt to fix my leaking transmission pan. It continues to be wet and dripping along the back edge of the pan. My first attempt I just changed the gasket with a cheapy from autozone, torqued to FSM. It was back dripping a couple weeks later. The second attempt I ditched the gasket and went to RTV. And I also changed the output shaft seal because I thought I was seeing fluid coming out of the weep hole. But unfortunately a couple weeks later it was leaking again. And it seemed to be coming through and around the pan mounting bolts. I didn’t see any fluid coming from up above, only at the gasket edge and the bolts. At that point I thought maybe the pan is bent or dented around the mounting holes. So third attempt I bought a new pan (stock style, nothing fancy or different), and I bought a good FelPro gasket, and I used a nice healthy dose of gasket sealer recommend on this forum. I thought for sure I had it licked. But a few weeks later I started seeing drips again, and it’s wet along the back edge again. As I inspected the leak each time, I found the pan bolts weren’t completely tight any more, and I could tighten them a bit before they hit the torque spec. I wouldn’t call them loose though, just not at spec any more. So I’m wondering if they are loosening up as I drive.

Now my fourth attempt, I bought a lubelocker gasket and I’m going to try that. I also changed the park/neutral position switch because I think fluid was leaking through the switch (is that possible?). And finally my question, I’m considering putting some blue threadlocker on the pan bolts. I’m thinking that maybe the pan bolts aren’t staying tight, maybe some threadlocker would help. What do you guys think? Is that a good idea? Would that hurt anything?

Thanks for your help.
 
The Lube Locker will not compress the same way the Felpro does so you shouldn't have the same problems with the bolts loosening up.
While I have never put thread loc on pan bolts; applying the blue thread loc and torqueing the bolts should work fine.
Be careful when torqueing the bolts since the thread loc may cause the bolts to require more torque to get the torque wrench to click due to the lubrication caused by the thread loc. I would lower the torque setting by 10-15% to be safe.
 
I don't know about your 30RH but it's common for some automatic transmission pan bolts to require an ATF resistant RTV to be applied to the threads or they'll leak otherwise. Have you looked at the FSM for your year to see if any of yours do?
 
I'll be monitoring how your progress goes as I need to do this on a 2006 auto. Dipstick reads full but there's drippage around pan. Whatever the correct word is for when the fluid doesn't drop but pools up.
 
My pan is leaking/wet in the same spot. But the fluid looks like motor oil. Isn’t the tranny oil red?
 
My pan is leaking/wet in the same spot. But the fluid looks like motor oil. Isn’t the tranny oil red?
This is exactly what my situation looks like as well. It's weird. Could it be the gasket or rtv mixing with the atf?
 
This is exactly what my situation looks like as well. It's weird. Could it be the gasket or rtv mixing with the atf?
Not sure. I was starting to wonder if the oil is so old that it’s not red anymore??? I can’t imagine regular engine oil making its way to the back of the tranny pan. Specifically the back row of bolts.
 
Mopar Gear Lube RTV PN 82300234

You can purchase the RTV on Amazon for $14

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BV4DKN8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

81Qmj0J7jJL._AC_SL1500_.webp
 
This is the correct Mopar ATF RTV that should be used for the automatic transmission pan and to seal any of the transmission pan bolts that need to be sealed per the FSM.

05010884_420.webp
 
That tube is extremely old. I was a chrysler tech between 2012 and 2016 and i rebuilt many automatic transmissions. The only RTV we used for ATF was the tube labeled "Caoutchouc Silicone Rtv".
I've never been a Chrysler tech but I have sealed many trans pans and t-cases with the gear oil specific RTV from Mopar with no issue. It really doesn't care, it just works. Later when it was more available, I started using the ATF specific stuff but I don't like it as well due to how fast it skins over so it has a very short open time.
 
I did check the FSM for the need for ATF on any of the bolts and there is no mention of that anywhere. I don’t think that it is required on the 30RH. (I got lucky and found the exact FSM manual for my model and year on eBay for $40).
I am suspicious that it may have all been coming from the position switch, so I’ve replaced that too, with the new (metal ?) seal that came with it. Going to put it back together this weekend. Need to decide if if using the threadlocker or not. It doesn’t seem like it will hurt anything. I will adjust the torque down 10% or so like CharlesHS suggested if I uses it.
 
I did check the FSM for the need for ATF on any of the bolts and there is no mention of that anywhere. I don’t think that it is required on the 30RH. (I got lucky and found the exact FSM manual for my model and year on eBay for $40).
I am suspicious that it may have all been coming from the position switch, so I’ve replaced that too, with the new (metal ?) seal that came with it. Going to put it back together this weekend. Need to decide if if using the threadlocker or not. It doesn’t seem like it will hurt anything. I will adjust the torque down 10% or so like CharlesHS suggested if I uses it.
FYI, in the Resources Forum on this site are links to factory service manuals and parts lists. All for free. : )

Sometimes it is nice to have a copy in hand too.