Tub removal sanity check

[Imagineer]

Just putting this put there for a sanity check . . . Lifting the tub off the frame?

During the past several weekends, I spent a bit of time under my ’97 TJ and noticed the body mounts are all in rough shape (the corresponding frame mounts appear still decent). Since it’s my intention to hold onto this Jeep for a long while, I’m thinking it will be worth the effort to attempt to fix these mounting points and also a few rusted holes in the floor. Might make a fun winter project.

I’ve got a small pole barn and can make the space for the project. I also have available, a 1000lb x 7’ wide A-frame hoist, as well as metal cutting, forming and welding equipment.

The idea is to disconnect the tub from the frame and rotate it back such that it’s resting on the tailgate with the firewall facing up; providing clear access for repairs to the undercarriage.

Any caveats or warnings about doing this? Are there connector plugs for the electricals, or will I be cutting wires? The Jeep has air conditioning, but I don’t think it works and am not concerned about fixing it. Obviously, I’d remove the seats and console, and maybe the roll cage and windshield frame.

An added goal while the tub is off would be to needle scale the frame and anything else that’s rusty, then POR-15 the whole thing.

 

[CharlesHS]

I wouldn't rest the tub on the tail gate area; doubt it would handle the weight
You could place the tub flat with several metal milk crates around the perimeter to support the frame off the ground.

 

[glowell222]

Just putting this put there for a sanity check . . . Lifting the tub off the frame?

During the past several weekends, I spent a bit of time under my ’97 TJ and noticed the body mounts are all in rough shape (the corresponding frame mounts appear still decent). Since it’s my intention to hold onto this Jeep for a long while, I’m thinking it will be worth the effort to attempt to fix these mounting points and also a few rusted holes in the floor. Might make a fun winter project.

I’ve got a small pole barn and can make the space for the project. I also have available, a 1000lb x 7’ wide A-frame hoist, as well as metal cutting, forming and welding equipment.

The idea is to disconnect the tub from the frame and rotate it back such that it’s resting on the tailgate with the firewall facing up; providing clear access for repairs to the undercarriage.

Any caveats or warnings about doing this? Are there connector plugs for the electricals, or will I be cutting wires? The Jeep has air conditioning, but I don’t think it works and am not concerned about fixing it. Obviously, I’d remove the seats and console, and maybe the roll cage and windshield frame.

An added goal while the tub is off would be to needle scale the frame and anything else that’s rusty, then POR-15 the whole thing.

Watch this video before you pull the tub.

 

[Imagineer]

Watch this video before you pull the tub.

Thanks. That provides a lot of helpful information.

Among the long list of repairs and refurbishments, I intend to replace both front fenders. If I remove the fenders (and hood) in advance of removing the tub, will I still be required to remove the radiator and grill?

 

[macleanflood]

I'd rig pulleys and just go straight up.

I used a tractor. Had to borrow the neighbors mine wasn't big enough.

-Mac

 

[mpbannon]

Thanks. That provides a lot of helpful information.

Among the long list of repairs and refurbishments, I intend to replace both front fenders. If I remove the fenders (and hood) in advance of removing the tub, will I still be required to remove the radiator and grill?

If you remove the hood and fenders, you don't have to remove the radiator. You have to disconnect the steering shaft, unplug the ECM plug for the engine harness and any ground wires, the throttle cable, shift cable if auto or master cylinder/ slave cylinder if manual, brake lines, coolant and AC lines and any vacuum lines and diff vents. I just swapped mine this past winter and it was a fairly straight forward job.
What I did was disconnect everything and unbolt the body mounts, jacked it up a bit, looked around, jacked it up a bit more, until there was clear separation and I didn't miss anything.

 

[Imagineer]

Well, I little research and study is a good thing. I'm scaling back the grand plan and will not (for now) pull the tub. It occurred to me that locating the repairs to the tub body mounts can't be easily done with the tub off the frame.

I found a video from Taboo Customs

detailing the process of installing their repair kit. In the video, they replace the mid side mounts one at a time, using the frame mounts for location. Since my frame mounts are all still in decent shape, I think this is the way to go for my situation. I'll do some further study on it this weekend to determine the extent of the rotted out sections (and the viability of removing the 4 rear body mounts), but at this point, since this endeavor is mainly to repair the 6 middle body mounts, I'm revising my attack.

I'm impressed with the repair parts offered by Taboo Customs. They offer (I think) 10ga steel whereas other cheaper kits offer only 16ga. Any suggestions for other repair kits to consider?

 

[glowell222]

Thanks. That provides a lot of helpful information.

Among the long list of repairs and refurbishments, I intend to replace both front fenders. If I remove the fenders (and hood) in advance of removing the tub, will I still be required to remove the radiator and grill?

Definitely pull the radiator-the screws and nutserts are probably rusted to the point they are in need of replacement anyway. You can leave the fenders and grill attached. If you are going to go down to the bare tub by removing grille, fenders, and most of the interior + windshield frame and roll cage, buying a new or used rotisserie setup would be the best option here. It will certainly make it easier and safer to do the work you need-and you will likely end up needing to do more once you get into it. When you're finished, sell the rotisserie, or make your own rotisserie.

Edited to add: I rewatched this video. If you have a stick shift, use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat up the top of the shift knob where the symbols are, then use a slim flat screwdriver to pry out the symbols, gently going in at the 12 o'clock position. Heat it up again to put the symbols back-no damage. Also, your internal shift boot--be sure to pull that off as well before lifting the tub. The original boots are much higher quality than anything available today. Don't cut your parking brake cables that go out to the hubs unless they are in need of replacement. Use Liquid Wrench (your newest hero) to free them up at the mounting point (attached to the tub), then use smaller hose clamps to squeeze in the sides of the clips so you can pull them out. Don't forget to disconnect your fog lights, and while you have it all separated, address the fuel tank ground and the mounting bolts and nuts-they are likely rusted as well. Get some copper or stainless hardware in there.