My second TJ and ive been happy with the performance on and off road. Stock 4.0 except headgasket, head studs, throttlebody and custom turbo kit. I also perfer the front mounted intercooler. Other mods include Brute halfcab, 4" lift and ARB air lockers
Turbo half cab build
- Thread starter Boostbaby
- Start date
I get about 5psi on two step. But my tune is fairly conservative and I dont really do many hard launches
Now that I got my joke out of the way, tell us what has been done to it. We need details!
More importantly, You want to go out wheeling with us in your rig? We will start up again late September when it starts cooling off. Check out the thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/list-of-arizona-members-who-like-to-go-off-roading.45756/
Keep an eye on there. We will post up there to try and get a couple rigs going.
Hey thanks for the interest in the build. So im running a splitsecond piggyback and it is great. You can go onto their site and simply download the map to match your setup. I bought a piping kit and cheap turbo from ebay and it has worked well so far. I am using an early TJ single outlet exhaust manifold to a custom flexpipe that comes up between the passenger engine mount and the alternator. Other engine mods include roller rockers, comp cam springs, custom downpipe, HKS boost controller and HKS turbo timer.I would like to go wheeling with you in September. Its fun getting out there. You about to boost your TJ?
Oh and by turbo compressor oil cap was done on a dare. So I had to make it happen lol. Its a bit sharp but it doesn't get too hot lol
Let's Roll! If you scan through that thread, we also have out of towners to meet and wheel with.
To boost or not to boost? I'll keep mine motor stock. On my build I went the lockers before turbo route. I may down the line go with a motor swap.
Maybe one of these days when my buddy comes to help me I can take it out and do a launch video. I can't wait to build my stroker turbo next year.
So I can't remember if I told you about my setup or not. Anyway I'm running a Chinese 57mm turbo with custom piping, store bought intercooler piping and coupler kit. I have a HKS external 38mm wastegate, Tial BOV, HKS boost controller and HKS turbo timer. Splitsecond piggyback set for 36# injectiors and 12psi boost pressure. Everything works well together and ive had no real issues except my valve springs. I had to upgrade to comp cam spring (very important)
I'm not familiar with Splitsecond, I'll look them up when I have time. 12 psi on a pretty much stock engine seems like it'd be pushing it real close to the safe limit. What was the problem that made you change valve springs?
12 psi is safe if you have a multiple layer head gasket and head studs. The tune is the most critical. Ive been running at 12psi for over a year without an issue. I did have some serious valve float issues at 10psi and I had to switch to comp cam springs to resolve it. But just know that those springs do not just bolt up. You need to machine the head where the valves sit. Luckily I have all the equipment to do it at work. After getting the springs replaced its been a pleasure to drive. On the freeway it seems like any modern car now.
Did the stock springs lose control with boost pressures throughout the RPM sweep or just at the top end, like 4500+? I ask because in another thread a member is building a turbo kit, and I ask if the stocks springs were up to the task running at 10 psi, but I don't think he provided an answer. You're saying they are not, which I kind of expected. What spring and what rate did you install?
The stock springs are junk. They only
So my stock valves were floating at 3400rpm and 10psi in first gear and at 4300rpm and 10psi in any other gear. The jeep would pull hard then fall on its face, kinda like if you let off and jumped on the brakes. With the comp cam springs my issues were resolved completely and it pulls from when I start boosting all the way till the rev limit. But like I said earlier these springs do require machine work to the heads. In the last pic you can see how much I had to cut compared to one that I didn't do yet. They need to be .0830" in diameter or less to clear the comp cam springs.