Tweezer's 2004 LJ
- Thread starter tweezer
- Start date
Will do! The Swayloc should ship next week and Savvy sent the Currectlync but I am unsure about the lift. The shipping email clearly specified only the Currectlync, but then I got an email saying my order was complete. Maybe the lift has shipped too? We 'll see and I will let you know. Looking forward to getting started. Thanks again!
based on weight they support or the tendency for the higher rated pair being larger and taller?
based on weight they support or the tendency for the higher rated pair being larger and taller?
You know this one!
Anyone know what this is? The Jeep came with an alarm key fob, so maybe the alarm? What's weird is the connection wires that come out of the dash - see below.
This sits right behind the shifter column, next to the front cup holder.
The red, blue, green, wires run under the driver carpet and tie into something in the lower right foot well, where all of the wires are located. It meets up under the carpet the the black wires, which are connection wires someone installed into the plate where the ashtray used to be.
The black wires head towards the firewall grommet. One goes out and there is a module mounted just in front of the driver, up high in the compartment. The other connects to a couple of modules that are connected to each other.
Definitely not happy with the wiring allover the driver footwell and I would like to yank it. The key fob is shit and I would never use it. Only concern is it's not getting power from the battery because nothing auxiliary is connected to the battery. I do remember seeing a yellow light on the box in picture one. Anyone know what this is if it's not the alarm? Could it be getting power from the main harness?
This sits right behind the shifter column, next to the front cup holder.
The red, blue, green, wires run under the driver carpet and tie into something in the lower right foot well, where all of the wires are located. It meets up under the carpet the the black wires, which are connection wires someone installed into the plate where the ashtray used to be.
The black wires head towards the firewall grommet. One goes out and there is a module mounted just in front of the driver, up high in the compartment. The other connects to a couple of modules that are connected to each other.
Definitely not happy with the wiring allover the driver footwell and I would like to yank it. The key fob is shit and I would never use it. Only concern is it's not getting power from the battery because nothing auxiliary is connected to the battery. I do remember seeing a yellow light on the box in picture one. Anyone know what this is if it's not the alarm? Could it be getting power from the main harness?
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Spent the better part of today and yesterday installing a new sound system. I installed an Alpine iLx407 head unit, Alpine KTA450 amp that connects to the back of the head unit (thanks @taylormade73 for the heads up on these amps), JBL Bass nano in the console, Kicker 47KSC504 in the roll bar, and Kicker 7ksc4604 in the dash. Just did a test to make sure everything is working. When I connected to negative battery terminal the horn beeped and the alarm went off. I killed it with the key fob. When I turned the key to the first position to check everything, I noted the CEL light was on and then blinked 12 times. I started the engine and there was no CEL. I disconnected everything from the main harness and the CEL remains.
I did find this when googling:
The flashing just means that the OBD system isn't ready to do a I/M test and that there is a chance you could fail if you take your vehicle in. Apparently this can happen after a battery change, failure, or disconnect, stereo change or just about any alterations to the electrical system. It should clear itself eventually.
Has anyone seen this prior and is the OBD system readiness a potential cause?
I did find this when googling:
The flashing just means that the OBD system isn't ready to do a I/M test and that there is a chance you could fail if you take your vehicle in. Apparently this can happen after a battery change, failure, or disconnect, stereo change or just about any alterations to the electrical system. It should clear itself eventually.
Has anyone seen this prior and is the OBD system readiness a potential cause?
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The weekend didn't go exactly as planned, but I am glad to have the sound system install behind me. I am hopeful the flashing CEL prior to starting the engine is the OBD system after disconnecting the battery. I read it should clear after driving it a bit, so we shall see. Yesterday morning I put the Dana 30 back together and filled with fluid. The gasket for the Dana 44 didn't arrive in the AM, so I pivoted to the stereo. Holy smokes it took me forever. Worked on it most of today. Not sold on the JBL Bass nano, but I need to play with the head unit to see if I can tweak in a better sound. Anyway, 6 ton stands and the Dana 44 gasket are here and I will work on the rear first thing tomorrow.
Wife is crashed and I cannot sleep so I went down to the garage to tweak the iLx407 head unit and JBL Nano sub. Was able to dial in a punchy sound by paying attention to the 40-80 range of the sub and speakers in the built in crossover. It sounds killer. In the garage at least. Lol. After, I unpacked the 6 ton stands and holy shit, these are so beefy compared to the 3 ton.
Bestop Supertop NX Soft Top should be here early in the week, and I ordered a replacement stock front bumper that should be here too. My front bumper has a good sized dent right in the middle. I hate it. But I also like the stock, yet capable look, so I am sticking stock. I grabbed some stubby caps to lose the milkjugs. Not very adventurous, but I like it. I also have some factory Mopar foglights en route. I have a Rugged Ridge Full-Length Eclipse Sun Shade to run under the soft top, and the Clear Corner & Turn Signal Lens Kit. Not sure how I feel about this look, bit I dig it in most pictures.
Waiting on the 4" Savvy lift, Currectlync steering, ORO Swayloc, and Savvy shifter cable.
Bestop Supertop NX Soft Top should be here early in the week, and I ordered a replacement stock front bumper that should be here too. My front bumper has a good sized dent right in the middle. I hate it. But I also like the stock, yet capable look, so I am sticking stock. I grabbed some stubby caps to lose the milkjugs. Not very adventurous, but I like it. I also have some factory Mopar foglights en route. I have a Rugged Ridge Full-Length Eclipse Sun Shade to run under the soft top, and the Clear Corner & Turn Signal Lens Kit. Not sure how I feel about this look, bit I dig it in most pictures.
Waiting on the 4" Savvy lift, Currectlync steering, ORO Swayloc, and Savvy shifter cable.
I have the Dana 44 drained and am able to get a look at the gears. I do see some rust on the internals. Perhaps this is what that mechanic was referencing? The oil was nothing like what I saw in the front. Definitely not milky but as black as the oldest motor oil I've seen. A paper or LubeLocker was used, which is freaking so much easier to clean up. Anyway, see below for pictures.
Prior to cleaning with brake cleaner:
The oil:
After cleaning with brake cleaner. There's some rust on the carrier and the R&P gear.
I plan to regear and put in a locker in the near future, but my thought is just to finish cleaning it up, put the cover back on and fill it with oil. I haven't been driving it as I waited to change the front/rear diff fluid. Can I drive it like this after the oil has been changed?
The oil was nothing like what I saw in the front. Definitely not milky but as black as the oldest motor oil I've seen. A paper or LubeLocker was used, which is freaking so much easier to clean up. Anyway, see below for pictures.Prior to cleaning with brake cleaner:
The oil:
After cleaning with brake cleaner. There's some rust on the carrier and the R&P gear.
I plan to regear and put in a locker in the near future, but my thought is just to finish cleaning it up, put the cover back on and fill it with oil. I haven't been driving it as I waited to change the front/rear diff fluid. Can I drive it like this after the oil has been changed?
I have the Dana 44 drained and am able to get a look at the gears. I do see some rust on the internals. Perhaps this is what that mechanic was referencing?
Prior to cleaning with brake cleaner:
View attachment 342201
The oil:
View attachment 342205
After cleaning with brake cleaner. There's some rust on the carrier and the R&P gear.
View attachment 342207
View attachment 342208
View attachment 342209
I plan to regear and put in a locker in the near future, but my thought is just to finish cleaning it up, put the cover back on and fill it with oil. I haven't been driving it as I waited to change the front/rear diff fluid. Can I drive it like this after the oil has been changed?
Should be fine. The rear takes a lot more load daily driving around than the front which is why it has a black color to it…
Soldmytaco
TJ Enthusiast
why do you think the impact driver will not be as helpful. I am in the unfortunate situation of not having a garage to work in, so I haven't been able to amass a tool collection yet. Real bummer. That was one tool I was thinking would be essential once I get a garage though
The Amazon one I bought just didn't have the strength to break bolts loose. I tried a couple of different applications and it didn't work. I am returning it to Amazon. I replaced it with a Dewalt 20v Max XR. It was more expensive but totally worth it. It is pretty heavy but I think it's going to work great. I just pulled the bolts from the rear diff cover and it was like an electric screwdriver. Those are only at 30 ft/lb, but compared to the front using a socket driver and a breaker bar, it was so freaking easy. I recommend spending the extra money on a good one.
the rust kinda looks like an axle that sat empty and neglected for a bit then filled back up and run without a proper cleaning.
what looks odd to me is those shiny witnesses. on the end of those ring gear teeth. didn't you say you thought that diff was making noises? if the diff was neglected so were the bearings inside.
if i planned on keeping that gear set i might set things up and run some pattern grease on that to see whats up.
what looks odd to me is those shiny witnesses. on the end of those ring gear teeth. didn't you say you thought that diff was making noises? if the diff was neglected so were the bearings inside.
if i planned on keeping that gear set i might set things up and run some pattern grease on that to see whats up.
Took it for a drive after completing the rear diff and I did not hear the grinding sound I heard before changing the front and rear oil. Could the super old/dirty oil have been the cause? It could also be in my head, but it seemed to ride a bit smoother. Unless something changes, I am going to maintain as is until the regear and lockers in both axles. Pleased with the short-term outcome.
After my ride I took the hardtop off in prep for the arrival of the soft top. I had rigged up a ratchet strap removal system in my garage when I had the 2015 Unlimited. 4 eyebolts drilled into the rafter and 4 ratchet straps. Two on each side hooked together on the inside of the top. Bit of a slow process but it works well enough and gets the top out of the way.
After my ride I took the hardtop off in prep for the arrival of the soft top. I had rigged up a ratchet strap removal system in my garage when I had the 2015 Unlimited. 4 eyebolts drilled into the rafter and 4 ratchet straps. Two on each side hooked together on the inside of the top. Bit of a slow process but it works well enough and gets the top out of the way.