they said when they put my TCM in their jeep it caused a flare from 3-4. They told me to send it back and they will take a look at the one they sent me and send a new one if need be. He also said he tweeked something with the PCM.
(UPDATE) Calling 42RLE Transmission Gurus
- Thread starter LittleGiant
- Start date
they said when they put my TCM in their jeep it caused a flare from 3-4. They told me to send it back and they will take a look at the one they sent me and send a new one if need be. He also said he tweeked something with the PCM.
Remind me, on your 04 is the TCM separate from the PCM? I'm pretty sure on the 05/06 that function got moved to the PCM, but having never had a later model TJ I don't have all that memorized.
Yes, they are separate. PCM is on the passenger side firewall and TCM is drivers side near the wiper fluid reservoir
I also just don’t understand how a shifting issue from 2-3 just magically fixes itself
if it was a flow/pressure problem, then it's possible that a valve unstuck itself, or some schmutz somewhere came free and allowed full flow. Just off the top of my head. If it was an actual clutch friction problem, then it did not heal itself.
......
Still makes me wonder if there is a TCM issue and/or PCM issue.
I put both of these in last night. I’ll drive it this weekend and see if anything changes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007ZAJRM?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMLQU?tag=wranglerorg-20
I put both of these in last night. I’ll drive it this weekend and see if anything changes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007ZAJRM?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMLQU?tag=wranglerorg-20
After putting both of those LubeGards in the slipping/flare is completely gone.
I could feel it start to get better in the first few miles and even better as I drove it more. I’ve put about 75 miles on it since and it shifts like butter!
Absolutely unbelievable, I was almost ready to spend big bucks but not anymore. The transmission is rebuild with less than 50K on it and had the torque converter and shift solenoid replaced by the same people thinking that would fix it, so now it’s even newer. Haha
Thank you everyone for all the help and advice and especially @hear and @MikeE024
It’s good stuff.
I had a 96 z71 that it would fix then it would like wear away and I would put more in it.finally had to have it rebuilt.
I’m happy that it’s working but it may just be a stay of execution. But I’m a pessimist by nature.
I feel similar. It’s great to hear it’s working…now we see how long you are good for.
I’d get a temp sensor installed if you haven’t done so yet (sorry if I missed that update).
I’m going to get the pan that black magic sells with the sensor in the drain plug. Just curious how to wiring it up after that
The gauge you buy will give you the specifics of the wiring. I used a Glowshift (working fine after 3 years of abuse), which has a 2 wire sender. I wired in a waterproof plug so I could drop the pan without cutting wires, and then I put those 2 wires into the bundle that goes over the hump and into the engine bay. For a 2 wire sensor one will be ground, and one will be the signal. I connected the ground wire to my (-) battery terminal, and then I sent the signal wire from the sensor through the foam at the firewall, right next to the HVAC vacuum line. For power I used a tap-a-fuse on the radio fuse (I'm pretty sure).
I did something similar. I ran a wire from the sensor on the pan to the Autometer trans temp gauge through the firewall. It connected via a small ring terminal at the sensor so it could be easily removed.
Other than that, the gauge just needed ignition power and a ground. I used a local ground point near the gauge and got 12v using a fuse tap (from Amazon) to one of the fused circuits behind the glovebox. There are a few circuits that work well (e.g., radio circuit like hear may have done).
You can also ground to the top mounting bolt of the same circuit breaker panel behind the glovebox using a ring terminal. That’s worked well for me.
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