Upgrading Rubicon axles: is this a crazy thought?

[d-cannon]

My Rubicon axles and lockers function perfectly well, but I was planning to add chromo shafts and probably regearing for the 33s after I get the lift. Having heard that there are no new OEM locker replacement parts, I was considering adding ARB lockers if I ever had an issue with the OEM.

After pricing the above, I have been thinking about just getting the Currie 40 & 60 with all the upgrades I would like to do.

Very recently, it seems like stock Rubicon axles sets selling very quickly for $3k (or more). If I could get that for mine, it seems I could get brand new Currie axles for just a grand (or two) more than what it would cost to upgrade my current axles with shafts, gears, and lockers.

Does this sound logical (and accurate) or am I missing something? I know that I will need on board air.

 

[Irun]

A 44/60 combo for 33 inch tires would be overkill. FWIW, I did have a rear Rubicon fail on me, but I've also had a couple go over 200k with no issues.

 

[d-cannon]

A 44/60 combo for 33 inch tires would be overkill. FWIW, I did have a rear Rubicon fail on me, but I've also had a couple go over 200k with no issues.

What are your thoughts on the above, just with a comparable set of 44s?

 

[Irun]

What are your thoughts on the above, just with a comparable set of 44s?

Regardless of what you go with on a 44, the ball joints are the same. For anything up to a 35 inch tire, just go with a set of chromoly shafts and regear. To prolong the stock rear 44, keep it locked when in 4wd

 

[Mike_H]

I've considered that same. My current axles work well, but if I sold them and put that money, plus what I would spend on upgrades, I could have some nice axles under the rig. In the end, with 35's I decided it just wasn't necessary. If I ever win the lottery and decide to stretch and go 40's...well, that's a whole new ballgame!

For your situation, with 33's, the stock axles are plenty strong. Upgrades not really necessary. Lock the front up before you need to (not when you're already bound up) and keep the rear locked off-road. The locker safety bypass from wandering trail is very handy. I have it wired so that I can flip a switch to activate the circuit, and use the lockers no matter which transfer case position I'm in.

https://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mods/TJLJmods/Locker_Defeat.htm

 

[NOTNSUV]

To prolong the stock rear 44, keep it locked when in 4wd

Will you explain this please? First time I've heard of this precaution. I know when I mention it to my Jeep brethren I'll get some skepticism. Is that relevant for any locked diff or particular to the OEM Dana 44?

 

[PRNDL]

Will you explain this please? First time I've heard of this precaution. I know when I mention it to my Jeep brethren I'll get some skepticism. Is that relevant for any locked diff or particular to the OEM Dana 44?

and keep the rear locked off-road.

I am also interested in the reasoning behind this. Thanks

 

[jjvw]

Will you explain this please? First time I've heard of this precaution. I know when I mention it to my Jeep brethren I'll get some skepticism. Is that relevant for any locked diff or particular to the OEM Dana 44?

The Rubicon LSD is weak and most will eventually strip the helical gears. Especially those who rely on it to be a limited slip. I've done it and replaced mine with an ARB.

 

[mrblaine]

Will you explain this please? First time I've heard of this precaution. I know when I mention it to my Jeep brethren I'll get some skepticism. Is that relevant for any locked diff or particular to the OEM Dana 44?

The #1 cause of failure for the rear TJ Rubicon 44 is the gear driven limited slip breaks the little gears then those pieces circulate through the differential and ruin the actuator and anything else they get into. The only way to protect those is to not drive aggressively on the street around corners and lock it up any time you get in low traction off the pavement. Don't try to be a hero and show all your buddies that you can do stuff they need lockers for, lock it up and keep it there.

 

[Irun]

The Rubicon LSD is weak and most will eventually strip the helical gears. Especially those who rely on it to be a limited slip. I've done it and replaced mine with an ARB.

The #1 cause of failure for the rear TJ Rubicon 44 is the gear driven limited slip breaks the little gears then those pieces circulate through the differential and ruin the actuator and anything else they get into. The only way to protect those is to not drive aggressively on the street around corners and lock it up any time you get in low traction off the pavement. Don't try to be a hero and show all your buddies that you can do stuff they need lockers for, lock it up and keep it there.

Exactly, the off-road part, what happened to me. My rear blew, because I had the mentality of only using the rear locker when absolutely necessary. Now I leave the rear locked anytime I'm off-road!

 

[mrblaine]

Will you explain this please? First time I've heard of this precaution. I know when I mention it to my Jeep brethren I'll get some skepticism. Is that relevant for any locked diff or particular to the OEM Dana 44?

Many years ago not long after the TJ Rubi came out, a group on the Rubicon Owners Forum all got together and went to Moab. Being the studly types they were, they were quite pleased showing everyone how well the limited slip worked on the slickrock. Of 17 or so in the group, they broke about half the rear lockers. Don't be a stud, it's expensive.

 

[d-cannon]

All of the comments are well appreciated.

Any known issues with that locker bypass?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Many years ago not long after the TJ Rubi came out, a group on the Rubicon Owners Forum all got together and went to Moab. Being the studly types they were, they were quite pleased showing everyone how well the limited slip worked on the slickrock. Of 17 or so in the group, they broke about half the rear lockers. Don't be a stud, it's expensive.

That's an interesting weakness in the Rubi locker, and I did not know that. When I run Moab, that last thing I want to do on that slick rock is lock either axle unless I need to.

 

[mrblaine]

That's an interesting weakness in the Rubi locker, and I did not know that. When I run Moab, that last thing I want to do on that slick rock is lock either axle unless I need to.

The best part was they tried to blame the failures on the nth rear stinger by saying it created too much traction. No, you are in a very high traction environment, you just broke the damn things.

 

[Mike_H]

Exactly, the off-road part, what happened to me. My rear blew, because I had the mentality of only using the rear locker when absolutely necessary. Now I leave the rear locked anytime I'm off-road!

I pretty much keep mine locked all the time, unless I need to navigate tight corners...then I'll unlock, make the turn, and re-lock it.

 

[jjvw]

I pretty much keep mine locked all the time, unless I need to navigate tight corners...then I'll unlock, make the turn, and re-lock it.

Same. With the rear ARB, the front stays locked most of the time.

 

[Mike_H]

All of the comments are well appreciated.

Any known issues with that locker bypass?

The only issue that could come from the bypass would be not doing the wiring properly. All you're doing is fooling the PCM into thinking the T-case is in 4-low (by closing or opening a switch). Its all done behind the dash and is all 100% reversible. I've been running it that way for years without issue.

 

[RHanna]

You might have to add in the cost of new driveshafts if you go with new axles, maybe?

 

[Mike_H]

Same. With the rear ARB, the front stays locked most of the time.

I'm getting to the point of frustration with the single switch controlling both lockers....I'm thinking on how to change the set-up to front and rear with dash illumination (cuz its neat, not because I need it to know I'm locked). I think Sri did it, and posted it somewhere...

 

[mrblaine]

I'm getting to the point of frustration with the single switch controlling both lockers....I'm thinking on how to change the set-up to front and rear with dash illumination (cuz its neat, not because I need it to know I'm locked). I think Sri did it, and posted it somewhere...

We did Chris's that way. The dash light was harder than I expected. The only issue with it is using the switches that plug into the dash bezel. The ones from Golden State while they do work, are a bit cheesy for what they cost. They don't have that positive snap feel that a quality switch does.