OP
Urethane Flat Fender Flares
- Thread starter BonesXX
- Start date
Probably in my build thread. This isn’t a flare, but another piece of plastic I painted with the same stuff. I printed a copy of the auto shift bezel. The original is on top in this picture. The bottom piece is rusoleum bedliner.
Here it is in the console
OP
Thanks for the pics sir. How is it working out on your flares? I pulled The diamond plate off mine. I am going to use some 3inch aluminum flat bar to make a rocker panel trim and I want to paint these to match the flares. How do you think it would look with this coating.
Aside for the obvious issues with prepping aluminum, I think it would look fine. Mine are holding up great. No flaking or any coating failure at this point. I did lean one of my fenders into a tree (a couple times with a couple different trees). There is a small scuff on a flare...vs a fairly significant crinkle in the fender. Like I've said, I REALLY like this stuff for bumpers and accessories like this. Its tough, it looks good, and its easy to touch up. I need to pull the running boards of my Daily pick-up truck and redo them...Westin's powdercoating SUCKS. I will plan on using the same stuff on them.
OP
I need to compliment KBD on their customer service. I had a small issue with one of my flares and they are sending me a whole set!!!
I just swapped 6” Xenon for 4”KBD. Like the shape of xenon better but they aren’t making a 4” anymore. kBD were super easy install and look great. The xenon were super similar, folded one in 1/2 on a rock and it bounced right back into shape. After that was pretty well sold on poly fenders. If you want 6” I have a free set
Painted with rust oleum bedliner in a rattle can. Much finer texture than something like Raptor liner
Definitely something I’ll keep in mind if I decide to keep them black. I’m considering paint matching them but I’ve seen others say they didn’t turn out so great, so I’m hoping they have refined their process and the flares are easier to paint now.
It’s all in the prep. Follow their directions to the letter. They use a silicone based mold release and paint does not stick to silicone. You have to get it ALL off of there. Once you think you have it clean, clean it again. If there is even a hint of water beading when you rinse the scouring powder off, clean again.
Awesome thank you for the tip! I’ll probably be making my order today and really hoping I can color match it to my stone white TJ.
The other thing to watch for is cleaning up the parting lines. The parting line is where the mold splits, and its usually a rougher line around the perimeter of the part. I filed mine down to shape it better. You'll probably find some pinholes in the plastic as well. For me, those were all contained to the inside, so I didn't worry about them, but if you want to use a shiny paint, you may want to talk to KBB about what they recommend as filler.
The pinholing is what I’m most concerned about. I’ll definitely reach out and see what their recommended filler would be though thanks again for the great advice!
I love that every time I find something new I want for the TJ, I come here first and 10 of you have already done it 
I love the look of these KBD flares. What do we think of steel fenders in the rear, something like these and just the KBDs up front? Help me decide!
I love the look of these KBD flares. What do we think of steel fenders in the rear, something like these and just the KBDs up front? Help me decide!
I love that every time I find something new I want for the TJ, I come here first and 10 of you have already done it
I love the look of these KBD flares. What do we think of steel fenders in the rear, something like these and just the KBDs up front? Help me decide!
I'd keep the front and rear the same so they match.
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I’ve smashed the shit out of mine and they bounce right back. Don’t see a benefit running steal in rear. If you don’t like the rears run naked … leave them off
