Vented Hoods

Hood flutter was the primary issue. I have had many scary moments passing tractor trailers on the narrow 2 lane highways out here. Venting the hood really helped make travel more pleasant, even it it was psychological. Some will recommend stronger straps, but that is a band-aid fix that does not address the reason for the flutter.

This next concern may be too close to my professional life, but heat causes degradation of plastics and other materials. As do frequent wide temperature swings. Keeping the engine compartment cooler and more stable will prolong that life span of what is in there. This is a long term interest as I intend to have the Jeep for as long as I am able to. Next year won't make a difference, but 10 years from now?
 
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Hood flutter was the primary issue. I have had many scary moments passing tractor trailers on the narrow 2 lane highways out here. Venting the hood really helped make travel more pleasant, even it it was psychological. Some will recommend stronger straps, but that is a band-aid fix that does not address the reason for the flutter.

This next concern may be too close to my professional life, but heat causes degradation of plastics and other materials. As do frequent wide temperature swings. Keeping the engine compartment cooler and more stable will prolong that life span of what is in there. This is a long term interest as I intend to have the Jeep for as long as I am able to. Next year won't make a difference, but 10 years from now?
Thanks, that all made sense. I installed Daystar hood latches a few months ago (one of the rubber links snapped on the highway) to cure my hood flutter, they work well enough for me.

Talking about plastics, vinyls, etc. degrading, you should see some of the wiring in my 2004 BMW 330ci. When I replaced my front headlights recently, the insulation on the wiring inside both headlight enclosures had nearly completely disintegrated and fallen off. 90% of the insulation had literally fallen off leaving, no exageration, 90% of the wiring leading to the headlights being completely bare. I insulated them as best I could but I am now ready for my car to start blowing fuses or having electrical problems since no doubt much of its hidden wiring has that problem. :eek:
 
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I get what you are saying, but I won't go so far as to say that they were a bad idea or a mistake. I never installed mine with the intention of addressing some kind of cooling issue, nor were they entirely for looks.
So it wasn't for "cooling", it was for "cool"...:cool: :thumbsup:
 
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Thanks, that all made sense. I installed Daystar hood latches a few months ago (one of the rubber links snapped on the highway) to cure my hood flutter, they work well enough for me.

Talking about plastics, vinyls, etc. degrading, you should see some of the wiring in my 2004 BMW 330ci. When I replaced my front headlights recently, the insulation on the wiring inside both headlight enclosures had nearly completely disintegrated and fallen off. 90% of the insulation had literally fallen off leaving, no exageration, 90% of the wiring leading to the headlights being completely bare. I insulated them as best I could but I am now ready for my car to start blowing fuses or having electrical problems since no doubt much of its hidden wiring has that problem. :eek:
The unintended consequences of the over cooling are very interesting to me. It backs up everything you say about the capacity of the stock system. What I did was throw that system out of balance. After nearly two years, the 205 thermostat seems to be doing what I hoped it would do to improve that balance. Despite that, I still see temps in the high-190s, which is better than the 180s that were happening before, even on 110* days. An unintended consequence of the hotter thermostat is the the heater works far too well in the winter!
 
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Thanks, that all made sense. I installed Daystar hood latches a few months ago (one of the rubber links snapped on the highway) to cure my hood flutter, they work well enough for me.

Talking about plastics, vinyls, etc. degrading, you should see some of the wiring in my 2004 BMW 330ci. When I replaced my front headlights recently, the insulation on the wiring inside both headlight enclosures had nearly completely disintegrated and fallen off. 90% of the insulation had literally fallen off leaving, no exageration, 90% of the wiring leading to the headlights being completely bare. I insulated them as best I could but I am now ready for my car to start blowing fuses or having electrical problems since no doubt much of its hidden wiring has that problem. :eek:
I have the daystar links in my hood latches. Ended up being so tight that they deformed the latch on the passenger side. They do work to prevent the flutter, but I'm going back to the factory rubber links and venting the hood. It helps that I like the look of the GC vents.
 
...Talking about plastics, vinyls, etc. degrading, you should see some of the wiring in my 2004 BMW 330ci. When I replaced my front headlights recently, the insulation on the wiring inside both headlight enclosures had nearly completely disintegrated and fallen off. 90% of the insulation had literally fallen off leaving, no exageration, 90% of the wiring leading to the headlights being completely bare. I insulated them as best I could but I am now ready for my car to start blowing fuses or having electrical problems since no doubt much of its hidden wiring has that problem. :eek:

I extended the breather tubes up the firewall in my LJ. I noticed the split loom covering the wire harness was incredibly brittle and spent. I ordered some heat insulation DEI wrap to cover the loom. Do you know of anything better?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I extended the breather tubes up the firewall in my LJ. I noticed the split loom covering the wire harness was incredibly brittle and spent. I ordered some heat insulation DEI wrap to cover the loom. Do you know of anything better?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Personally I would just install new split loom. You don't want to over-insulate wiring so heat can't get out.
 
As jodomcfrodo said, it won't run any cooler, but will keep underhood temps down. I had a heatsoak issue, and venting the hood stopped it. It also lets more fresh air flow under the hood, and that keeps everything else cooler under there.
And they look cool. See my Jeep-——-I
<———————————————————————-I

OK more novice jeep question here... How did you install them... was it a pita or a reasonable weekend project?
 
OK more novice jeep question here... How did you install them... was it a pita or a reasonable weekend project?

Fairly easy. I removed the hood and set it on sawhorses. Set the vents on it where you want them. draw around them with a dry erase or similar marker.
Make sure that you aren't cutting through any structure on the underside of the hood. If not, mark a line INSIDE the line you already drew by about a half inch.
Now the hard part. Drill holes in the corners of the smaller lines. With the cutting device of your choice, (Sabre saw, sawzall, angle grinder with death wheel, etc.) cut on the lines between the holes.
When you finally finish screaming at yourself internally, set the vents back in place and mark the mounting holes. Drill those.
Here in the Arizona desert, it wasn't important, but anywhere you have humidity, apply paint or some other coating to protect the cut edges and drilled holes from corroding. Using the supplied rivets, or as I did, #4 screws and Nylock nuts, secure the vents in place.
Put the hood back on and take pictures to show the rest of us what you did.
Shouldn't take more than a couple hours.
 
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