Fulton_Hogan

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
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Nov 11, 2020
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496
Location
Florida
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.

I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.

This is what the boxes looked like:

WVE_Boxes.jpg


The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".

Switch:
Switch_Box (Detail).jpg


Connector:
Connector_Box (Detail).jpg


Packaging was what I'd expect:

Switch:
Switch_Packaging.jpg


Connector:
Connector_Packaging.jpg


Here is the new switch:

Front:
WVE_Switch (Front).jpg


Rear:
WVE_Switch (Rear).jpg


After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.

Damaged connector:
Damaged_Connector.jpg


Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.

Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
Damaged_Connector_2.jpg


Detail of the damage:
Damaged_Connector (Detail).jpg


I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.

Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
Repinned_New_Connector.jpg


Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.

Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
Old_and_New_Switches.png


In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
OEM_Switch.jpg


The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.

Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
OEM_Relay_and_Label.jpg


Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
Reassembling_Switch.png


During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.

Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.

I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.

If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!

Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
 
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Very nice write up! Taiwan and USA made is certainly a nice bonus. I might need to add these to my spare parts bin.
 
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Very nice write up! Korean and USA made is certainly a nice bonus. I might need to add these to my spare parts bin.

Taiwan is technically part of China.
However, I think products from Taiwan are thought to be of higher quality than mainland China. Mileage may vary and all that.
 
Great writeup. I just fixed mine with the fog light issue but it's good to know there's a fallback option if it's ever irreparable.
 
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Taiwan is technically part of China.
However, I think products from Taiwan are thought to be of higher quality than mainland China. Mileage may vary and all that.

Ha ha! I guess either my reading or compression skills need improvement. Not sure how my brain landed on Korea. I do agree that Taiwan products are generally better than their Chinese equivalents.
 
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Ha ha! I guess either my reading or compression skills need improvement. Not sure how my brain landed on Korea. I do agree that Taiwan products are generally better than their Chinese equivalents.

LOL. No worries.

I hope I didn't come off as condescending but I didn't know if I could leave it alone.
 
LOL. No worries.

I hope I didn't come off as condescending but I didn't know if I could leave it alone.

Not at all. I'm glad your clarified so nobody would accidentally follow my mistake. I edited my post just to make sure I don't confuse anyone in the future. Thanks for the great write up and photos.👍
 
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I have had to replace the turn signal switch a couple of times in my Jeep. The issue I keep seeing with new switches is when you use the turn signal switch to make a lane change afterwards the switch causes the hazard light to flash until jiggle the switch. Have you seen this?
 
I have had to replace the turn signal switch a couple of times in my Jeep. The issue I keep seeing with new switches is when you use the turn signal switch to make a lane change afterwards the switch causes the hazard light to flash until jiggle the switch. Have you seen this?

Not in the limited amount of driving that I've done with it to this point. Admittedly, I don't have a bunch of miles on it.
 
Nice. Happy to see non Chicom parts. I just put in a blower moter from Canada and the HVAC panel was from Taiwan.

Nice! where did you get your parts?
I may need a blower motor as my panel is getting hot to the touch. (I need to test it out first.) I might spring for the Mopar for the blower, but the HVAC panel is a different animal.
 
Nice! where did you get your parts?
I may need a blower motor as my panel is getting hot to the touch. (I need to test it out first.) I might spring for the Mopar for the blower, but the HVAC panel is a different animal.

I picked up the blower motor from Advance with a 20% off coupon. It was a Unimotor, made in Canada. Perfect fit, looked as nice as the OEM.

Don't push the blower motor too long or you'll be replacing wiring and connectors. Mine still seemed to be OK, but it had 260K on it. The new one seems to move a little more air, so the bearings/bushings in the old one might have been dragging a little.

I got the HVAC panel from O'Reilly with another 20% off coupon. Several places sell the Standard Ignition panel, made in Taiwan, but O'Reilly had a lifetime warranty on it vs 3 yrs everywhere else.
 
I picked up the blower motor from Advance with a 20% off coupon. It was a Unimotor, made in Canada. Perfect fit, looked as nice as the OEM.

Don't push the blower motor too long or you'll be replacing wiring and connectors. Mine still seemed to be OK, but it had 260K on it. The new one seems to move a little more air, so the bearings/bushings in the old one might have been dragging a little.

I got the HVAC panel from O'Reilly with another 20% off coupon. Several places sell the Standard Ignition panel, made in Taiwan, but O'Reilly had a lifetime warranty on it vs 3 yrs everywhere else.

AWESOME! Thank you for all that detail!
I realize the blower/HVAC controls issues is one of those 'you're not screwed until you are; and there's little way to head it off' things, so I'll be letting the window(s) do most of the cooling until I can get to the blower. Hopefully it won't be too long.
 
@dlake I did experience hyperflash Friday evening, but it didn't seem switch related.

I'd driven a normal day, no issues. I went to run an errand and suddenly had hyperflash with the left turn signal. When I checked functions the left front wouldn't blink. I turned on the lights and it didn't light up. The side marker lit, but not the front.

I got home and found a spare 3157 bulb (from I don't know when/what car) in the garage so I just swapped it. Same issue, no change. Now it was time to troubleshoot, so I left the bulb and connector out of the lamp housing to test.

Pulling the 3157 bulb killed the side marker. With the 3157 bulb in place the side marker worked, but the 3157 was off. I pulled the new 3157 and switched the old bulb back. Same thing.

As I pulled the old out to put the newer bulb back in (again) the side marker cut off and on as I was removing the bulb. It did the same when I seated the new one.

I got it working after a few install/pull cycles, so it may be some possible corrosion on the connector contacts. I didn't peel back the wire loom to check for wear, I had enough on my plate for the evening.

It's all back in and working, drove around some yesterday to test it, seems good.

I wanted to share my experience because maybe you'll have similar things to check.