Wells Vehicle Electronics (WVE) Multi-function Switch & Connector

Tom Andersen said:
What is the cause of the melted connector on the mfs?
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Not knowing the pin out. Maybe that's where the headlight power goes through?

I know in the older plunger style all the power for the headlights runs through the switch itself. Moving to the switch controlling a relay powering the lights has helped mine.
 
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LittleTankTJ said:
Not knowing the pin out. Maybe that's where the headlight power goes through?

I know in the older plunger style all the power for the headlights runs through the switch itself. Moving to the switch controlling a relay powering the lights has helped mine.
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Thanks for the reply. I'll see if I can find out what the pins are.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Likely from running aftermarket higher wattage incandescent headlights.
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Not since I bought it 6 years ago. It was stock then and is now Jerry. The melted part is on the far left, looking at the connector when disconnected. I think the contacts there have to do with the turn signals. I have pulled trailers with it.
 
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Fulton_Hogan said:
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.

I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.

This is what the boxes looked like:

View attachment 445403

The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".

Switch:
View attachment 445404

Connector:
View attachment 445405

Packaging was what I'd expect:

Switch:
View attachment 445406

Connector:
View attachment 445407

Here is the new switch:

Front:
View attachment 445408

Rear:
View attachment 445409

After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.

Damaged connector:
View attachment 445411

Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.

Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
View attachment 445412

Detail of the damage:
View attachment 445421

I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.

Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
View attachment 445413

Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.

Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
View attachment 445415

In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
View attachment 445416

The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.

Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
View attachment 445418

Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
View attachment 445414

During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.

Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.

I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.

If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!

Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
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This is an amazing How To article. You should see if Extreme Terrain needs an instruction / how to on these items or any. I think they pay $100. 🤔 Great Job
 
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I'm glad OP is having good luck with his switch. I purchased a DRL controller from WVE, thinking they would give me a part they manufactured...and I paid extra for that brand (also on rock auto). They had a dorman for about 60 bucks, the WVE for 120, and I think a mopar for some ridiculous price. Anyway, when I got the WVE, it was clearly a dorman part, made in China. The packaging, however, said made in Mex. So, I figured someone must have swapped the part out of the package. I exchanged it, and recieved another piece. It was the same. At this point, I was PISSED. Rock Auto ended up charging me a 20% restock fee to return the second one.

So...I'm NOT a fan of WVE.
 
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Mike_H said:
I'm glad OP is having good luck with his switch. I purchased a DRL controller from WVE, thinking they would give me a part they manufactured...and I paid extra for that brand (also on rock auto). They had a dorman for about 60 bucks, the WVE for 120, and I think a mopar for some ridiculous price. Anyway, when I got the WVE, it was clearly a dorman part, made in China. The packaging, however, said made in Mex. So, I figured someone must have swapped the part out of the package. I exchanged it, and recieved another piece. It was the same. At this point, I was PISSED. Rock Auto ended up charging me a 20% restock fee to return the second one.

So...I'm NOT a fan of WVE.
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I'm not a fan of Rock Auto - although I *do* use them from time to time. I had to pay the restock fee on a belt one time when it was OBVIOUS that it was the wrong part.
 
Mike_H said:
I'm glad OP is having good luck with his switch. I purchased a DRL controller from WVE, thinking they would give me a part they manufactured...and I paid extra for that brand (also on rock auto). They had a dorman for about 60 bucks, the WVE for 120, and I think a mopar for some ridiculous price. Anyway, when I got the WVE, it was clearly a dorman part, made in China. The packaging, however, said made in Mex. So, I figured someone must have swapped the part out of the package. I exchanged it, and recieved another piece. It was the same. At this point, I was PISSED. Rock Auto ended up charging me a 20% restock fee to return the second one.

So...I'm NOT a fan of WVE.
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Sorry to hear that.

There's probably 2-3 factories in 2-4 countries in the world that make certain things, parts like these being one of them.

At these factories some of these products are more within whatever tolerances they choose to follow and those end up boxed as one brand, the mid-level stuff gets boxed as another brand, and the bottom of the barrel is the cheap stuff.

Or it's all one line of product and companies buy the stuff at wholesale, then box it in their packaging, mark it up some percent, and then sell it at retail. Some parts will be well in tolerance, others will be less, retail seller won't matter.

Beyond the original parts, I have little to no true, deep faith in brand marketing. So if original isn't available it's probably a crap shoot.
 
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