What is the cause of the melted connector on the mfs?
Not knowing the pin out. Maybe that's where the headlight power goes through?
I know in the older plunger style all the power for the headlights runs through the switch itself. Moving to the switch controlling a relay powering the lights has helped mine.
Likely from running aftermarket higher wattage incandescent headlights.What is the cause of the melted connector on the mfs?
Likely from running aftermarket higher wattage incandescent headlights.
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.
I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.
This is what the boxes looked like:
View attachment 445403
The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".
Switch:
View attachment 445404
Connector:
View attachment 445405
Packaging was what I'd expect:
Switch:
View attachment 445406
Connector:
View attachment 445407
Here is the new switch:
Front:
View attachment 445408
Rear:
View attachment 445409
After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.
Damaged connector:
View attachment 445411
Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.
Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
View attachment 445412
Detail of the damage:
View attachment 445421
I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.
Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
View attachment 445413
Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.
Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
View attachment 445415
In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
View attachment 445416
The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.
Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
View attachment 445418
Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
View attachment 445414
During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.
Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.
I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.
If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!
Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
I'm glad OP is having good luck with his switch. I purchased a DRL controller from WVE, thinking they would give me a part they manufactured...and I paid extra for that brand (also on rock auto). They had a dorman for about 60 bucks, the WVE for 120, and I think a mopar for some ridiculous price. Anyway, when I got the WVE, it was clearly a dorman part, made in China. The packaging, however, said made in Mex. So, I figured someone must have swapped the part out of the package. I exchanged it, and recieved another piece. It was the same. At this point, I was PISSED. Rock Auto ended up charging me a 20% restock fee to return the second one.
So...I'm NOT a fan of WVE.
I'm glad OP is having good luck with his switch. I purchased a DRL controller from WVE, thinking they would give me a part they manufactured...and I paid extra for that brand (also on rock auto). They had a dorman for about 60 bucks, the WVE for 120, and I think a mopar for some ridiculous price. Anyway, when I got the WVE, it was clearly a dorman part, made in China. The packaging, however, said made in Mex. So, I figured someone must have swapped the part out of the package. I exchanged it, and recieved another piece. It was the same. At this point, I was PISSED. Rock Auto ended up charging me a 20% restock fee to return the second one.
So...I'm NOT a fan of WVE.
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.
I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.
This is what the boxes looked like:
View attachment 445403
The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".
Switch:
View attachment 445404
Connector:
View attachment 445405
Packaging was what I'd expect:
Switch:
View attachment 445406
Connector:
View attachment 445407
Here is the new switch:
Front:
View attachment 445408
Rear:
View attachment 445409
After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.
Damaged connector:
View attachment 445411
Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.
Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
View attachment 445412
Detail of the damage:
View attachment 445421
I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.
Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
View attachment 445413
Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.
Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
View attachment 445415
In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
View attachment 445416
The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.
Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
View attachment 445418
Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
View attachment 445414
During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.
Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.
I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.
If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!
Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.
I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.
This is what the boxes looked like:
View attachment 445403
The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".
Switch:
View attachment 445404
Connector:
View attachment 445405
Packaging was what I'd expect:
Switch:
View attachment 445406
Connector:
View attachment 445407
Here is the new switch:
Front:
View attachment 445408
Rear:
View attachment 445409
After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.
Damaged connector:
View attachment 445411
Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.
Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
View attachment 445412
Detail of the damage:
View attachment 445421
I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.
Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
View attachment 445413
Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.
Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
View attachment 445415
In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
View attachment 445416
The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.
Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
View attachment 445418
Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
View attachment 445414
During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.
Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.
I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.
If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!
Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.
I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to have a major short and seriously damage something, I went on the safe side and bought both parts (switch and connector) before I even looked in the steering column. I went to Rock Auto and purchased WVE brand parts. Details on WVE stuff is sparse so I figured I'd add some detail and pictures.
This is what the boxes looked like:
View attachment 445403
The switch (big box) was marked "Made in Taiwan" the connector (little box) was marked "Made in USA".
Switch:
View attachment 445404
Connector:
View attachment 445405
Packaging was what I'd expect:
Switch:
View attachment 445406
Connector:
View attachment 445407
Here is the new switch:
Front:
View attachment 445408
Rear:
View attachment 445409
After opening things up and disconnecting the original switch I saw part of the problem, a melted and beginning to disintegrate connector.
Damaged connector:
View attachment 445411
Here is another picture after I removed the black, clip-on face plate. It actually just snapped off at the melted side with slight pressure.
Signs of heat and several broken locking tabs:
View attachment 445412
Detail of the damage:
View attachment 445421
I used a small screwdriver to release each pin individually and reinserted them into the new connector one-by-one.
Here is the new connector, all pinned and ready for the new switch:
View attachment 445413
Over at the workbench I got the switch ready.
Here's a comparison of the old and new parts:
View attachment 445415
In case someone wants it, here's the detail on the OEM:
View attachment 445416
The original relay still had a label over it, so I kept it on when I transferred it.
Here the relay is still on the back of the OEM switch:
View attachment 445418
Here are the old (washer switch) and new (multi-switch) parts assembled:
View attachment 445414
During reassembly it all lined right up, no surprises in misalignment or odd sizing.
Once the column was all back together I reattached the battery and tested out all switch functions. All functioned as expected.
I'll test drive everything once dark but based on feel and look I'm (so far) happy with these. I did a little research before committing to the purchase and saw WVE was owned by NGK/NTK. Because of that I decided to give this brand a shot. Having them not be made in China was a surprise. Having something be USA-made was a shock.
If you attempt this for yourself and want a good walk through, I watched this tutorial just before turning screws. It is as easy as he makes it look. Good luck!
Easy to follow, no-nonsense instructions:
What causes the connector to burn up? I replaced my MFS 3 years ago after the turn signal side failed. No issues until recently. Removed the MFS, found the connector burnt. 2006 Rubicon with fog lights. Thank you
Thank you. My Rubicon is bone stock, no add ons etc. MFS failed, replaced no issues until recently. My MFS came from NAPA, don’t have the box, don’t recall the brand.I suspect it might have to do with full power running through the MFS for the lights, as opposed to using lower power and relays to trigger the lights. You can tweak your headlights, driving lights and fog lights to run off relays, there are also harnesses that can be purchased to do the same.
You both above need to do a headlight wiring harness upgrade. This involves adding relays to the headlight circuit to avoid running the full current load of the headlights through the switch. The switch will just power relays, while the relays take the full brunt of the current.
Did that upgrade on the 2nd Gen Dodge/Cummins. Kit came from Daniel Stern Automotive Lighting. Haven't thought of a scratch build upgrade for the TJ though.
What causes the connector to burn up? I replaced my MFS 3 years ago after the turn signal side failed. No issues until recently. Removed the MFS, found the connector burnt. 2006 Rubicon with fog lights. Thank you
I suspect it might have to do with full power running through the MFS for the lights, as opposed to using lower power and relays to trigger the lights. You can tweak your headlights, driving lights and fog lights to run off relays, there are also harnesses that can be purchased to do the same.
