What did you do to your TJ today?

DIYMechanic said:
Y'all are killing me! 🤣

When I'm in the garage I generally say "you're not working until you're leaking fluids". Blood, sweat, tears, whatever...

I love the big lift and big tire look on a Jeep, especially on an LJ, but it's a slippery slope. My impression is that a total of 3.5" or so of lift is about where you reach the base of the arc where the curve really takes off and the list of supporting mods becomes longer and the budget increases significantly (SLE, CV driveshaft, adjustable control arms, steering components to adjust geometry, then of course regearing, bigger rubber, etc.).

Am I reading that right?

How tall can you go in an LJ before you need to start changing a lot more than just springs and shocks?

Again, I'm a NOOB to TJs (LJ in my case) but my initial read is that 3.5" total lift (including a q or 1.5" BL) is about it before you need adjustable control arms, SLE, Track bars, home equity line, etc, etc. I have more experience with 3/4 and 1 ton full size Fords than with Jeeps (though I've had a YJ, a ZJ and a WJ).

My uses for the Jeep are primarily as a daily driver, but it'll see use off-road around the farm, some "snow wheeling" necessitated by our rural living arrangements and lifestyle and the occasional off road trip with the local Jeep club (frequency of that is yet TBD).

Looking for kind of a "hot stock" type build not a full on rock crawler. I'd love to be built for that someday, but the time and budget right now just don't support it and quite honestly, I'm not sure the condition of this machine justify that level of investment.
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Build it for 35's they said. It'll be fun they said. Now my short ass needs a damn step ladder just to get in.
 
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All 4 Wheelin' said:
All the above and more. It all depends on how much you want to
J.just E.empty E.every P.pocket
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Exactly.

And I already have a wife and 3 kids in highschool dipping into the pockets, so there's not much in there to empty! 😁

But seriously, I'm stoked to be back in a Wrangler and enjoying every minute of it so far.
 
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DIYMechanic said:
Y'all are killing me! 🤣

When I'm in the garage I generally say "you're not working until you're leaking fluids". Blood, sweat, tears, whatever...

I love the big lift and big tire look on a Jeep, especially on an LJ, but it's a slippery slope. My impression is that a total of 3.5" or so of lift is about where you reach the base of the arc where the curve really takes off and the list of supporting mods becomes longer and the budget increases significantly (SLE, CV driveshaft, adjustable control arms, steering components to adjust geometry, then of course regearing, bigger rubber, etc.).

Am I reading that right?

How tall can you go in an LJ before you need to start changing a lot more than just springs and shocks?

Again, I'm a NOOB to TJs (LJ in my case) but my initial read is that 3.5" total lift (including a q or 1.5" BL) is about it before you need adjustable control arms, SLE, Track bars, home equity line, etc, etc. I have more experience with 3/4 and 1 ton full size Fords than with Jeeps (though I've had a YJ, a ZJ and a WJ).

My uses for the Jeep are primarily as a daily driver, but it'll see use off-road around the farm, some "snow wheeling" necessitated by our rural living arrangements and lifestyle and the occasional off road trip with the local Jeep club (frequency of that is yet TBD).

Looking for kind of a "hot stock" type build not a full on rock crawler. I'd love to be built for that someday, but the time and budget right now just don't support it and quite honestly, I'm not sure the condition of this machine justify that level of investment.
Click to expand...

I have an Unlimited. 2.5" OME heavy springs, spacers to level up front, 1" aluminum body lift, UCF ultra clearance skid, motor mount lift. I had no vibrations. I'm upgrading control arms because I bent one and they are original.

I had it regeared with front and rear elockers and run 35" tires. I may break a driveshaft on the front Dana 30 if I push it too hard, but I'll address that if it happens.

It's my DD to work so it's balanced for that. Not the best there is on or off road but works good enough on both. If I want something better off road I'll get someone's old rock krawler. I see them on sale occasionally for cheaper than I could build one.
 
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New Sanden clutch arrived for my AC compressor on my 97 4.0 AX15. And after four unanswered phone calls and several unanswered emails I now know this is the wrong part. So good luck returning it or getting the right one.

On a side note this thing is heavy. 5 lbs plus on the end of a 1/2 shaft driven by a pulley seems insane to me... can't argue that it doesn't work though.

-Mac

IMG20230111170617.jpg


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InOmaha said:
I have an Unlimited. 2.5" OME heavy springs, spacers to level up front, 1" aluminum body lift, UCF ultra clearance skid, motor mount lift. I had no vibrations. I'm upgrading control arms because I bent one and they are original.

I had it regeared with front and rear elockers and run 35" tires. I may break a driveshaft on the front Dana 30 if I push it too hard, but I'll address that if it happens.

It's my DD to work so it's balanced for that. Not the best there is on or off road but works good enough on both. If I want something better off road I'll get someone's old rock krawler. I see them on sale occasionally for cheaper than I could build one.
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This confirms what I've read in other threads as well.

My commute is local so I don't need it to be a highway cruiser, but I don't want to ruin its road manners and be limited to 55mph either.

If you don't mind me asking, what gear ratios did you end up going with and how do you like them?

I'm running around with the OD off most of the time on local jaunts. I can't believe how deep that .69 overdrive ratio is. I'd like to choke a Chrysler engineer for that one (more likely a bean counter who made it happen, in reality).

Do you prefer the aluminum BL to the polyurethane for some reason?

I assume the MML is to help create the clearance for the ultra clearance skid? Assuming it isn't for the typical reason of needing it for the driveline angle for the rear DS.

Forgive the questions, I'm learning as I go and the LJ is all new to me.
 
The metal body lift doesn't crush over time.

I have the 6 speed manual so I went with 4.56 gears. It holds 75 at around 3000 rpm in 6 or 3800 in 5th.

If I need more off road gearing, I'd change out the NP231.

I add a upgrade every year or so.
 
CharlesHS said:
Before leaving for a holidays trip to the Philippines I removed the drivers seat that had seen better days. The seat is the original 22 year old factory installed seat which has compressed padding, torn vinyl on entry side and torn carpet style material near the console along with weathered vinyl.
I dropped the seat off at an upholstery shop recommended by a friend who owns a restored ‘77 IH Scout.
All the vinyl was replaced, the carpet material repaired, padding either replaced or more padding installed and the original center material was retained for originality.
The shop used the repair as fill work since I would be gone for a month.
Since I am not restoring the seats; just repairing for daily use… the entire repair cost was $300.
My brother picked up the seat yesterday and I will install once I get back from my trip.

View attachment 390959
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Nice.
 
All 4 Wheelin' said:
Paramount brand abs. Don't know if I want to smack them very hard. I see some GR tube fenders in the future.
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GR Tubes in aluminum are what my Xenon came off to replace them. Xenon are the same style as yours. I rubbed by plastic flares on a couple trees without too much damage - definitely will scratch or gouge the plastic but that hit that damage doesn't show those rubs at 10' away.
 
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FarFire70 said:
GR Tubes in aluminum are what my Xenon came off to replace them. Xenon are the same style as yours. I rubbed by plastic flares on a couple trees without too much damage - definitely will scratch or gouge the plastic but that hit that damage doesn't show those rubs at 10' away.
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What size did you go with?
 
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